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Toilet Cistern Overflow

  • 26-08-2008 5:04pm
    #1
    barneyeile
    Registered Users Posts: 101 ✭✭


    My toilet cistern won't stop when it fills up. I have tried adjusting the float up and down but the flow just slows rather than stops. The water goes into the bowl. Any suggestions as to how to fix it. I am not good at DIY by the way! Thanks.


Comments

  • #2
    Avns1s
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,423 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Likely you need a new ball valve. About €7-8 from a plumbers merchants or DIY store. It will need a small bit of DIY savvy to fit so if you're unsure, best get some help.


  • #3
    barneyeile
    Registered Users Posts: 101 ✭✭barneyeile


    Thanks for the information above. I think I may need to call a professional!


  • #4
    carveone
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,279 ✭✭✭carveone


    barneyeile wrote: »
    My toilet cistern won't stop when it fills up. I have tried adjusting the float up and down but the flow just slows rather than stops. The water goes into the bowl. Any suggestions as to how to fix it. I am not good at DIY by the way! Thanks.

    I had headaches with this exact problem. The nuisance is that some geniuses decided that the old brass fittings were too standard and came up with a bazillion different fittings, both horizontal and vertical. Bloody annoying. I especially dislike the Torbecks. But that's just me.

    There's a nice little explanation of the valve system here.

    A lot of them now look like this:

    diaphragm_ball_valve.jpg

    That's a picture of a diaphram valve. Your problem (finally getting to the point) is likely that the diaphram has become stiff or worn out. You can simply unscrew the unit and replace the rubber diaphram. If you can find one! Damned if I could, and ended up filching one from a skip.


  • #5
    carveone
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,279 ✭✭✭carveone


    Oh two things.
    1. you can see from the picture that you don't need much DIY experience to unscrew the unit. Just unscrew the plastic ring nearest the float arm. Like the odd coke bottle top though, they can be on pretty darn tight. You may need to wrap a bit of cloth around it and carefully use a wrench...

    2. I assumed you had those type of units. If you have a brass slide valve type, you problably need to replace the valve washer.

    HTH..


  • #6
    10-10-20
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,685 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Torbecks - Nightmare.
    And they cost an arm and a leg for a service-kit too.
    I found some service-kits on the internet - €8 instead of the €32 Chadwicks wanted!


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  • #7
    Dixy
    Registered Users Posts: 127 ✭✭Dixy


    The torbeck is a poor valve tbh, pay a few extra euro for a fluidmaster bottom inlet float valve. A very quite fill valve as it fills from the bottom and is equalibrium to boot.


  • #8
    EoC
    Registered Users Posts: 103 ✭✭EoC


    Replaced the ballcock with the fluidmaster because of slow fill. Can't speak highly enough about fluidmaster. Truely a great product. I'm just surprised that not many people know about it. I got my one in B&Q as they are difficult to find.

    Regards


  • #9
    Joey the lips
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    EoC wrote: »
    Replaced the ballcock with the fluidmaster because of slow fill. Can't speak highly enough about fluidmaster. Truely a great product. I'm just surprised that not many people know about it. I got my one in B&Q as they are difficult to find.

    Regards

    Fluidmaster is easy for the trade to get. Another valve is the aquasave. Its distributed in Ireland by MT AGENCIES. Might be a lot handier for those not near B&Q to give them a call for there nearest supplier.

    Always remember to check if its a side fill or bottom fill valve you need. I am sure that self explains but feel free to PM me for any advice.


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