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Raleigh Road Ace
Born 1983
Frame: 531c
Groupset: Shimano 600ax Aero
Rims: Mavic GP4
I raced on one of these back in the 80's and ever since the day I sold mine I've wanted one again.Could never find a good enough frame to start an expensive build project.Then along came a complete original bike in fantastic
condition for it's age. Haven't done anything to it yet.All it needs is new tape on the bars and a Raleigh decal.One of the hoods has dried and cracked but these can't be got.It has spent over 20yrs in an attic. Cost me £200
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@The Tax Man. That's twice tonight you've brought a tear to my eye, once with the Boy video and now that blast from my past. Loved that ax stuff back in the day, it was so next century
And the dynadrive pedals,I'd almost forgotten about them! 0 -
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The tax man wrote: »Only problem is that NO other pedal will fit those cranks.:mad:
I remember having the white LOOK pedals on the bike at one stage so I must've replaced the cranks to fit.
Still have my old Sidi shoes somewhere with the required cleats.:D
There was some marketing blurb about them improving pedaling force as your foot was placed where the centre of the axle was on a normal pedal. Just noticed the aero gear levers mounted on the top of the down tube instead of the side as well.
I remember seeing a special edition Gitane in a shop in France, fully ax equipped, which had the front brake mounted behind the fork crown for extra bling.0 -
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ednwireland wrote: »you need the tracksuit from here (nice bike btw)
http://www.velociao.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/ral83_04.jpg
I have one of those - I found it in the arric during a clearout last year! The years have been kinder to it rather than me. 0 -
Changed few things (still waiting for a couple of more to arrive)... now stands at 6.26kg. And I also need to cut the steerer as it looks ugly. The saddle might look like a tool to inflict pain, it also doesnt have any padding at all, but it's the most comfortable saddle I have used because it flexes so much.
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AstraMonti wrote: »now stands at 6.26kg
I bet you are kicking yourself now you bought such a heavy frame!
Getting very hard/expensive to lose more grammes at this stage!
I see you have articulated outer cables for the brakes but not for the gears - did you try them for the gears at all?
I used alligators myself on the MTB for front mech and fork lockout, but they wouldn't work right for some reason with the rear mech.0 -
I bet you are kicking yourself now you bought such a heavy frame!
Getting very hard/expensive to lose more grammes at this stage!
I see you have articulated outer cables for the brakes but not for the gears - did you try them for the gears at all?
I used alligators myself on the MTB for front mech and fork lockout, but they wouldn't work right for some reason with the rear mech.
I am actually having lots of fun trying to find the cheapest possible ways to bring down the weight, it's as much fun as riding it. I am waiting for a seatpost, seatpost clamp and a set of bottle cages from Smud and that would end the "cheap" upgrades. After that I have to fork out a significant amount of money to drop weight. I tried the i-links with the gears but didn't work, but that's probably my fault. After bcmf sorted my front derailleur problem that I had with the carbon chainrings I haven't touched anything 0 -
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Briain O Loinsigh wrote: »I think it's a combination of the angle in the photo and the shape of the bars themselves. I already had the levers raised a couple of inches since I got the bike.
Where were they when you got the bike? on the floor?
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07Lapierre wrote: »Where were they when you got the bike? on the floor?
Theres writing on front of the bars at the stem and it's level ,I suppose the manufacturer could of painted it arseways just for me 0 -
Briain O Loinsigh wrote: »Theres writing on front of the bars at the stem and it's level ,I suppose the manufacturer could of painted it arseways just for me
Dont think so...........there's a 'rule of thumb' that suggests that if the ends of the handlebars continued as a straight line they should roughly bisect the seat-tube (ie hit it at a point halfway between the seat and the bottom bracket..........try it and see, your brake hoods will rotate to a more comfortable angle for you to hold.;)0 -
AstraMonti wrote: »I am actually having lots of fun trying to find the cheapest possible ways to bring down the weight, it's as much fun as riding it. I am waiting for a seatpost, seatpost clamp and a set of bottle cages from Smud and that would end the "cheap" upgrades. After that I have to fork out a significant amount of money to drop weight. I tried the i-links with the gears but didn't work, but that's probably my fault. After bcmf sorted my front derailleur problem that I had with the carbon chainrings I haven't touched anything
BTP carbon clamps for the levers... a handy way of losing a few grammes.
Lightweight skewers - but I resume you're at that already?
I see you have KCNC chainring bolts? I think they might have saved 1 gramme when I weighed mine!
What's your cassette? Campag? There are lightweight versions available from the Far East, but supposedly the shifting ain't great, better kept for out and out show ponies.
Chain? The KMC SL10 is meant to shave a few Gs. And can be got for around £25 on eBay.
Ripcordz inners?0 -
TheBlaaMan wrote: »Dont think so...........there's a 'rule of thumb' that suggests that if the ends of the handlebars continued as a straight line they should roughly bisect the seat-tube (ie hit it at a point halfway between the seat and the bottom bracket..........try it and see, your brake hoods will rotate to a more comfortable angle for you to hold.;)
I've just tried what you said and I remember doing something like this after I got the bike ,but the guy in the shop told me the bars shouldn't be at that angle
I had been getting pains in parts of my arms aswell ,so I put this down to myself.
I'm really annoyed that this is something that I tried myself already and was told I was wrong for trying.0 -
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AstraMonti wrote: »I am actually having lots of fun trying to find the cheapest possible ways to bring down the weight, it's as much fun as riding it. I am waiting for a seatpost, seatpost clamp and a set of bottle cages from Smud and that would end the "cheap" upgrades. After that I have to fork out a significant amount of money to drop weight. I tried the i-links with the gears but didn't work, but that's probably my fault. After bcmf sorted my front derailleur problem that I had with the carbon chainrings I haven't touched anything
Use less bar tape.0
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