Post images of beauty (quote pics sparingly) - see Mod warnings in OP

Bikerbhoy

amused2death wrote: »

Arrived on Friday First ride this morning's race and it was a treat. Sram Red Double Tap was easy to get use to.
The vital stats are

53" Red Bull Carbon X-lite 1K T40/60, internal cabling ( K represents the thickness of an individual carbon strand. T represents the tensile strength of the frame)

Sram Red Group set however I swapped the cassette & chain for Dura ace. As dura ace cassette comes in an 11-21 and Red is notoriously noisey.
Look keo max carbon pedals
Ksyrium SL Tubular wheel set with 22mm Continental competition tubs.
FSA OS 99 carbon stem & FSA K force carbon seat post
Fizik Antares saddle
Ritchey comp streem (Alloy) handlebars
6.6kg

€3,581

Sweet bike.........Mmmmmm Those windowsills could do with a lick

amused2death

Bikerbhoy wrote: »

Sweet bike.........Mmmmmm Those windowsills could do with a lick

I knew when I had looked at the picture myself someone would pick up on the window sills. they are made of PVC and the material on it is plaster that the builder had not cleaned off. I have tried and tried to remove it with out damaging the PVC but some of it is cemented in place. It ruins the look of the building. Advise welcome!

ipodrocker

amused2death wrote: »

Arrived on Friday First ride this morning's race and it was a treat. Sram Red Double Tap was easy to get use to.
The vital stats are

53" Red Bull Carbon X-lite 1K T40/60, internal cabling ( K represents the thickness of an individual carbon strand. T represents the tensile strength of the frame)

Sram Red Group set however I swapped the cassette & chain for Dura ace. As dura ace cassette comes in an 11-21 and Red is notoriously noisey.
Look keo max carbon pedals
Ksyrium SL Tubular wheel set with 22mm Continental competition tubs.
FSA OS 99 carbon stem & FSA K force carbon seat post
Fizik Antares saddle
Ritchey comp streem (Alloy) handlebars
6.6kg

€3,581

nice and is that a garmin 500? how good is it compared to gettign a cateye strada.?

amused2death

Yes it is an Edge 500. The only other computers I have are Aldi ones which are fine as basic data and heart rate display systems. The 500 is very robust and the data displayed is clear and easy to read. You can see what the on line presentation is like on garmin or Utube. The price for the bundle was €250 and bought from a local supplier who price matched a UK onine store.

ipodrocker

very good, i guess i will get the strata for now and see how i get on.

cdaly_

amused2death wrote: »

the material on it is plaster that the builder had not cleaned off. I have tried and tried to remove it with out damaging the PVC but some of it is cemented in place. It ruins the look of the building. Advise welcome!

Sue the builder...


You might consider taking something flexible like a paint scraper to it. Lay the blade at a 20-30 degree angle and tap the handle with a hammer. It might just get under the cement and chip it loose.

Failing that, I wonder would some kind of ultrasonic blade thingy work? Hmm. Strap a transducer to the flat of the blade and push a 25kHz square wave through it...

amused2death

amused2death wrote: »

I knew when I had looked at the picture myself someone would pick up on the window sills. they are made of PVC and the material on it is plaster that the builder had not cleaned off. I have tried and tried to remove it with out damaging the PVC but some of it is cemented in place. It ruins the look of the building. Advise welcome!

There's a special chemical solution available that dissolves blobs of cement/plaster like that, I used it when I was working on building sites a few summers ago to clean cement spatters off windows. Can't remember what it was called but if you go into a builders providers they should be able to point you in the right direction. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves, that stuff stung like crazy on bare skin!

furiousox

Not mine but I likes it anyway...

amused2death

Deleted User wrote: »

There's a special chemical solution available that dissolves blobs of cement/plaster like that, I used it when I was working on building sites a few summers ago to clean cement spatters off windows. Can't remember what it was called but if you go into a builders providers they should be able to point you in the right direction. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves, that stuff stung like crazy on bare skin!

I have a chemical product that a neighbour gave me which I had to use "all geared up". Itcleaned off some of the stuff but didnt shift the stuff that had the protective plastic film under it.

fiestaman

nice bike furiousox

Gavin

Finished moving parts from old MTB onto new steel frame. Picked up new Fox 140 fork and XTR shifters along the way.

Paul Kiernan

DirkVoodoo wrote: »

No, under the stem is not necessary, the stem will just sit on the headset cover. Above the cap it is necessary ONLY with a carbon steerer. The usual requirement is to have a 3mm gap from steerer to top of stem to allow the top cap bolt room to clamp down and compress the headset. Unfortunately, doing this with a carbon steerer can apparently result in cracking so you need to have the steerer either flush or slightly above the stem. You then need a spacer to create the 3mm gap otherwise tightening the top cap onto the stem won't do anything!

Holy sh$t. I raised the bars on my Planet-X (carbon steerer) and moved all the spacers below the stem. Should I change it back pdq?

gman2k

Gavin wrote: »

Finished moving parts from old MTB onto new steel frame. Picked up new Fox 140 fork and XTR shifters along the way.
]

Really lovely hard tail you've got there Gavin, nice paint scheme and some tasty parts! Well done!

Gavin

gman2k wrote: »

Really lovely hard tail you've got there Gavin, nice paint scheme and some tasty parts! Well done!

Cheers Gman ! It's even brighter in the flesh! I don't want to get it dirty now.

Found a product called helicopter tape mentioned on a few mtb forums which is great for putting on the frame and preventing cable rub and such. Expensive, but pretty much invisible if put on correctly.

http://www.biketart.com/products/biketape


I put it along the downtube and the headtube and anywhere there's cables. Should maintain the paint a bit.

DirkVoodoo

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

Holy sh$t. I raised the bars on my Planet-X (carbon steerer) and moved all the spacers below the stem. Should I change it back pdq?

You mean something like this? No, I don't think it matters, the steerer portion between stem and headtube is where all the strain happens (I would imagine). As long as you still have a 3mm gap and the bearings are compressed by the top cap, it's fine.

The only thing is it looks fugly and is potentially dangerous if you crash, but nothing really to worry about. You can cut it yourself with a guide and a high (> 32 TPI) saw blade. Wear a mask, the dust is not good for your lungs, and sand down any burred edges. Simples!

EDIT: Oh I see, you RAISED them, my bad. Could you stick up a photo?

ballyharpat

A few of my rides, I also have a specialized Langster for commuting, looking forward to getting back to Kerry in early July and doing some cycling there.

ronan0

I'd love one of these... (drool)

ipodrocker

ballyharpat wrote: »

A few of my rides, I also have a specialized Langster for commuting, looking forward to getting back to Kerry in early July and doing some cycling there.

what computer are you using?

ballyharpat

ipodrocker wrote: »

what computer are you using?

I'm using the powertap pro sl on the bike, is that what you mean?

Paul Kiernan

DirkVoodoo wrote: »

EDIT: Oh I see, you RAISED them, my bad. Could you stick up a photo?

Sorry for delay, missed your reply:o.

Gap from steerer to top of stem is about 3-4mm. Total height of stem (where steerer goes through it) is about 40mm. Worry, I guess, is that the top bolt of stem is creating pressure very close to top of steerer.

[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Paul/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/2010/Stem%20002.jpg[/IMG]

ipodrocker

ballyharpat wrote: »

I'm using the powertap pro sl on the bike, is that what you mean?

yeah i wondered what make it was, researching different computers for the bike at the moment.

ballyharpat

ipodrocker wrote: »

yeah i wondered what make it was, researching different computers for the bike at the moment.

Bang for the buck, this is one of the best powermeters out there, mine is the older wired version, but it does the job great, I have a harness for each bike and can just swap over the wheel/hub when I want to. It is also great as just a computer without the hub, I can use it with my Zipp 303's and it will give me heart rate, speed, cadence etc. The powertap wheel weighs nearly 1100g, so I find it a little heavy and prefer to race with my Zipps, which weigh 1100g for the complete set.

I have been using power for 3+ years and really have no complaints about it and the service from Saris is superb.

kumate_champ07

this was supposed to be my beater for city use, went out on it on saturday for just over 70km!(Dublin,Wicklow and kildare) 48:19 gear ratio
stripped the paint off the other nite and put it together with some bits and bobs. gonna polish the tubes and then put on a clear laquer, already tested a small area and it comes out great.

I would normally have the saddle up higher but this is a short one, Im used to the lower ride now.
frame is 62cm, wheels are 27 1/4 with 32c tyres

furiousox

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.....

Pantani's chainring 44/54






Maybe old news but there's a great article on Pantani's bianchi here

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/article/retro-pro-bike-marco-pantanis-1998-bianchi-mega-pro-xl-24877/?mp=1

abcdggs

anyone heard of isotruss bikes?

Big Pic

slickmcvic

...ordered 1 of these thanks to the "cycle to work" scheme!...cant wait to get my hands on it!

Lumen

abcdggs wrote: »

anyone heard of isotruss bikes?

Big Pic

Mentioned here (with link to BikeRadar article).

JacksonHeightsOwn

my Specilized Roubaix, with Campagnolo athena groupset

CheGuedara

Nice ride chrisbonnie, nicely done on the colour matching throughout the bike, very tasty

DirkVoodoo

Hi Paul, sorry for late reply. That is an awful lot of stacking, any photo of the complete bike? A lot of manufacturers specify about 40mm (I think! - Although Park tool say 20mm) between headtube and stem. It looks like you have a 20, 10, 5 and 3mm spacer, as well as a another 10mm spacer (maybe?) before reaching the stem.

Aside from this, yes you have the steerer below the level of the stem. I don't know any stories of crushed steerers, but if manufacturers recommend it then I would follow it.

Other than that, use a torque wrench on the stem, top cap and the stem faceplate. It's really important.