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New PSU needed?

  • 03-02-2004 8:54pm
    #1
    Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 11,132 Mod ✭✭✭✭


    I've been installing a new hdd and a cdrw into my case. All seemed to go well, that is until i tried to turn it back on. Didly squat. No beeps, no whirs, no nothing. Now I know you all think I probably blew it by a static discahrge, but i don't think so. The psu was a bit crap, and now that there is no life from it at all, it has to be the psu, doesnt it? The power cord itself is fine, tried it with another computer. Can I test the PSU seperately by plugging it in on it's own? If i do need a new one, what are the ones to look for / avoid?

    Since tried to boot with no hdd at all etc to see what the problem was. Reseated everything as well...

    Thanks for reading folks...

    Mark


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 26,581 ✭✭✭✭Creamy Goodness


    we need pc specs before we can gives suggestions unless we just say go for an antec 550w and that would cover it but they too expensive plus overkill if in a system that doesn't need anything like that


  • Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 11,132 Mod ✭✭✭✭MarkR


    D'oh. Should have read posting 101. :D Currently it's an athlon 1800+, 512 mb pc2700 ddr from crucial. an elite k7vta3, 80 gb 7200 rpm 8mb cache maxtor drive, another 60 gb 5400 rpm maxtor drive (may not be around along) and a samsung cdrw drive. Current psu/brick is a firebox 350 w (i think) that came with the case i;d bought. Only had it about two months, so i'll be calling to the shop soon to discuss it with them...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 26,581 ✭✭✭✭Creamy Goodness


    i'd go for this in that system

    antec 400w


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,201 ✭✭✭netman


    i'd be surprised if it's the power supply. i doubt you're draining more than 200-250W with that setup, so the brick should be more than capable of handling that.

    usually when you strain a cheap PSU you'll notice a drop in voltages, where it's not able to supply a stable output. this will then make your system unstable, but it won't just stop working.

    if it's a really really bad power supply, chances are it blew a fuse. even the cheapest power supplies i've seen had a fuse. if it's under warranty bring it back to the shop and let them do the investigation.

    otherwise, it could be your motherboard. might not be a bad idea to bring both.

    if you have a voltmeter handy you can diagnose the power supply yourself. locate the grey wire (PWR_OK pin). place the red (positive) probe on the PWR_OK pin, place the black (negative) probe on any black wire pin (they're all ground, there's more than one of them). if the volt meter reads 2 volts or more then the power supply passes it's internal diagnostics. if it reads less, then it's dead or unusable.


  • Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 11,132 Mod ✭✭✭✭MarkR


    If it was the motherboard, wouldn't the fan on the psu be active? Some sign of life? I though if it was the board then i'd be getting beeps of some sort...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,318 ✭✭✭OfflerCrocGod


    Originally posted by MarkR
    If it was the motherboard, wouldn't the fan on the psu be active? Some sign of life? I though if it was the board then i'd be getting beeps of some sort...
    Try the PSU in another system and also the MB; that should always be the first thing you try when this sort of thing happens. If the MB is totally dead then I dont see how the computer could turn on.....when you press the button it's connected to the MB remember?.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,201 ✭✭✭netman


    if it's the motherboard - you'd be getting nothing at all.

    same if it was the power supply. atx power supplies need the motherboard connection to power on (the power-ok signal). you can simulate that by shorting the pins on the connector.

    if there's a problem with the graphics card, memory etc, then you'd be getting beeps from the motherboard.

    so it's safe to assume that it's either or both. could be as simple as a fuse on the power supply. just don't go spending 50-100 euro on a decent power supply only to find out that it was the motherboard. 350w is more than enough for what you have.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 771 ✭✭✭Sir Random


    It's a wild shot, but any chance that the little black power switch on the PSU is off? I've given myself heart attacks in the past by forgetting about that.


  • Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 11,132 Mod ✭✭✭✭MarkR


    Nooooooo. PSU is working in another computer. Time to strip thing down again. Not looking good for my board...


  • Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 11,132 Mod ✭✭✭✭MarkR


    Unless it turns out to be something loose, i'll probably be getting a new board. Was looking at either of these two abit nf7's, but I wasn't quite sure. If the more expensive one worth it? Abit NF7-M mainboard for Socket A, LAN nForce2IGP/MCP/, ATX, VGA, USB2.0

    or

    Abit NF7 V2.0 Mainboard for Socket A DDR nForce2SPP/MCP/Ultra 400,ATX,USB2.0,LAN

    Checking ocuk next...

    Mark


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,761 ✭✭✭Col_Loki


    Emmm unless you need onboard graphics then the NF7-M isint the way to go.

    The NF7-S has added features for SATA, RAID, and better sould (over the NF7).........depends on how much of an advantage this is going to be for you!!
    Either board is a good choice, ive got the NF7-S myself and i think its great..... no complaints at all.


  • Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 11,132 Mod ✭✭✭✭MarkR


    small print...can't read...:o


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