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Laying Laminate floor on floor boards

  • 23-02-2004 2:47pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭


    I pulled my bedroom carpet last night to check the condition of the floor boards as I was thinking of ditching the carpet in favour of sanding the floor boards and varnishing them. However, they're not in a great condition, with Grand Canyon gaps between the boards and plenty of split boards.

    So now I've decided to lay down laminate floor on top of it.

    My question is do I need to first screw down a thin layer of hardboard first before putting down the foam and then the laminate boards, or is it just enough with the foam & laminate? I'll be bringing it through to my en-suite while I'm at it. I'm thinking that I should lay the laminate across the original floor boards rather than going in the same direction as them?

    Any advice appreciated....


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,393 ✭✭✭Jaden


    Unless you can get 1/2 inch marine plywood down underneath the laminate, there's no point. Foam and liminate should be enough, unless the boards are in really bad nick. Place them down at right angles to the floorboards underneath for a flatter finish.

    Laminate in the bathroom is not a good idea, when it gets wet, it becomes weak and smelly. I think there may be laminates designed for bathroom use, but I've never seem them.

    My 0.02 Euros worth.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    The original floor boards aren't really in bad nick, it's just that with the gaps between them and the few that are cracked, it wouldn't look great as the main floor in the bedroom.

    The ensuite isn't that big so if I keep a few extra spare boards for a few years down the road I can always change them out if they get ruined.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,876 ✭✭✭Borzoi


    I'd agree with Jaden here. Just go at right angles.

    Furthermore it's true the laminate's don't suit any wet/damp environment unless they're specially treated. In fact I doubt a cheaper one would last months - depend i suppose of the manufacture and how much usage.

    As for carrying through, you really should have an expansion gap between the two floor sections, which will be covered by a metal strip (can't think of the name of it!)


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 16,724 Mod ✭✭✭✭yop


    You could get a sheet of the stuff they put on the back of some cabinets, it is not ply but I am having a mental block as regards the name of it!! But depending on the width of the gap you should not need it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 78,474 ✭✭✭✭Victor


    By laminate are we talking cheapy pretend timber flooring?
    Originally posted by Borzoi
    As for carrying through, you really should have an expansion gap between the two floor sections, which will be covered by a metal strip (can't think of the name of it!)
    Cover slip? :) There are other ways to do it, but this is usually the easiest. Jsut make sure the screws are well recessed into the metal to avoid them coming into contact with your foot at 4am. :)
    Originally posted by yop
    You could get a sheet of the stuff they put on the back of some cabinets, it is not ply but I am having a mental block as regards the name of it!!
    Hardboard or (if finished) beautyboard.


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 16,724 Mod ✭✭✭✭yop


    Hardboard

    Ch***T above, that was it! :D

    That will sort you out, it will also act as a soundproofer of sorts.

    There are 2 types of underlay, the very basic light underlay and then there is the thicker, springy mats, the first is probably the option that will suit you best


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    As for underlay, I saw 7mm thick foam in sheets about 1mx1m in B&Q yesterday. However, the carpet that is down, is a rubber backed carpet. I think I could try to use that initially and see how it felt on a small section.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,876 ✭✭✭Borzoi


    Originally posted by Victor
    Cover slip? :) There are other ways to do it, but this is usually the easiest. Jsut make sure the screws are well recessed into the metal to avoid them coming into contact with your foot at 4am..

    Could be that:D But you're old school, modern 'cover slips' can be got with a single adhesive strip for one side of the base - this allows the floors to move relative to each other. Just cut to length and peel off the backing paper, press down. Done. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 78,474 ✭✭✭✭Victor


    I imagine most carpets would have too much play in them to be used as an underlay ("resilient layer"). You may also get problems with the overall thickness at doors, etc.
    Originally posted by Borzoi
    Just cut to length and peel off the backing paper, press down. Done.
    And hope it doesn't fall off :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    ah, the carpet thats done is probably about as effective as any underlay. Its real thin rubber backed, something like a finish of carpet tiles. Not much difference between that and what I saw in uderlay.
    Not too bothered at the doors cos its just for one room and going up to the saddle. Decided to stay out of the ensuite and tile the floor in there. Too much hassle trying to cut boards and fit them together around the whb & wc


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