Wood varnish

Shewhomustbe...

This is probably a dumb question but what is the difference between gloss, satin and matt varnish.

I can't seem to tell and its doing my head in.

Borzoi

The difference is the surface finish.

Gloss is high shine
Matt is a flat, low shine finish
Satin is in between the two.

Really, it's just a matter of taste, which you prefer.

Shewhomustbe...

So it's the brand that would determine quality (and life) rather than the type?

AidoX

I used on a while back I *think* it was called Ronsel but it was deffo called "Diamond Coat" tuff for floors with lots of traffic and it was fantastic compared to the other ****e I used in other rooms. Someone recommended using the plastic coat, it was ok gave a whooper of a head ache, bitch to spread and the house did stink for about 2 days (not good for kids or head aches)

Victor

Originally posted by Borzoi
Matt is a flat, low shine finish

Well, dull, really.

Originally posted by Shewhomustbe...
So it's the brand that would determine quality (and life) rather than the type?

Brands will vary, but within brands you will also find diffences. A "low quality" brand may produce a "high quality" varnish that is better than "high quality" brand's "low quality" varnish . If you know what I mean.

Also different varnishes will be designed for different uses - waterproof, wearproof, etc.

Shewhomustbe...

I'm looking to varnish my skirting boards and possibly 12 pine doors.
I've been looking at the likes of Ronseal, as best on the market, and they cost 40Euro for a medium tin.
I've got a lot of wood to varnish but not hundreds to spend.

Would using a cheaper brand on skirting boards be taking much of a chance??

Thanks

Victor

They are two things that take a lot of knocks and scapes. Skirting boards suffer from sweeping brushes, vacuum cleaners, chair legs and the soles / toles of shoes(especially under desks). However, skirting boards suffer tend to suffer less than open floors / corridors.

Doors suffers at the opening edge, the opening (bottom) corner and around handles - this means it should be washable.

One things to watch out for is that colours match up more or less (more important with paint than vanish). There are few things worse than a scuffed two tone door.

In the end, pick somethign that you are happy with (read a few of the tins and then ask the shop assistant - but don't think this obliges you to buy).

Borzoi

Originally posted by Shewhomustbe...
I'm looking to varnish my skirting boards and possibly 12 pine doors.

Would using a cheaper brand on skirting boards be taking much of a chance??

Have the doors/skirting been varnished before or is this new timber? If they have then 2.5ltr tin is probably enough. So you'd really notsave any money by using a cheaper brand and having to buy two smaller tins

On a side note - having worked for a decorating firm before - always buy good quality paints/varnishes they generally last longer and are easier to use.

Shewhomustbe...

Originally posted by Borzoi
Have the doors/skirting been varnished before or is this new timber? If they have then 2.5ltr tin is probably enough. So you'd really notsave any money by using a cheaper brand and having to buy two smaller tins

Nope, new house so all lovely new pine skirting boards and doors, been told not to paint the doors as it'll ruin the colour (?)
The house is just under 1700sq ft so would a 2.5ltr tin be enough if I went ahead and did all the boards and doors?

On a side note - having worked for a decorating firm before - always buy good quality paints/varnishes they generally last longer and are easier to use.

I was thinking of B&Q own brand, or would you recommend someone like Ronseal?

mad m

well if its all new woodwork,ur deffo going to need more than 2.5ltr.....id go for the gallon or 5ltr fir starters

You say your looking at ronseal....and id say stick with a good brand,ive used ronseal and its as good as any of the leading brands...i have my house all varnished with no stain applied to woodwork before varnishing as i knew in when varnish is applied to woodwork the varnish makes it a little bit darker and over a time it gets darker from sunlight etc.....

The finish of varnish i tend to go for is Satin because it has a nice mellow finish plus it doenst show up marks as would full gloss varnish like fingerprints and stuff over a time.

But as u say its all new and your going to have to give it a few coats to acheive a nice finish,the first coat will just soak into woodwork and leave most of the wood spikey....what i normally used to do on sites was we got a thing called sanding sealer which is a ready made two pack celleouse based laquer and dried in minutes..this stuff was great at building up layers and sealing wood,plus we sanded it down with steel wool as it left it like a babys bot before finishing it with a varnish..but this stuff is letal on the lungs if you dont have a mask....

All in all u have some job ahead of u.12 doors if 4 or 6 panel ones take time so its 24 sides ull have to paint plus going back to them maybe 2 more times depending on if your that fussy....sorry for last bit,like most things it will take u time so goodluck

Borzoi

Argh, that's a lot of new woodwork. As mad m says - you'll need at least 5 lit. Be prepared for applying 3-4 coats, possibly more on the doors.

Assuming you don't go down the route of the 'sanding sealer'

Hand sand wood
First coat - thined out (with white spirit) varnish. Seals the wood
Light sand
Full coat
Light sand
Full coat

Rinse and repeat, if you get my drift, untill you're happy with the finish. Don't break yourselves on the skirting - noone looks closely at it. But do take the effort on the doors. Like mad m , my preferance is for a satin varnish. Andgo with the Ronseal. DIY stores own brand paints/varnishes give me the horrors

Shewhomustbe...

Thanks for all your replies.

Really I'm just looking for the quickest and easiest way of doing this as I don't have a huge amount of time to devote to it.

Borzoi, I don't think a saint would have the patience for the 'sanding sealer' way!!:D

There are a few rooms that I would need done quite quickly so I'm thinking of using the Ronseal that says its dry in 20minutes or so. (Or am I kidding myself?!?)

Borzoi

Originally posted by Shewhomustbe...


There are a few rooms that I would need done quite quickly so I'm thinking of using the Ronseal that says its dry in 20minutes or so. (Or am I kidding myself?!?)

Never used it so I couldn't say. But I would be wary of it on the first coat on raw/bare timber

mad m

Originally posted by Shewhomustbe...


There are a few rooms that I would need done quite quickly so I'm thinking of using the Ronseal that says its dry in 20minutes or so. (Or am I kidding myself?!?)

Originally posted by Borzoi
Never used it so I couldn't say. But I would be wary of it on the first coat on raw/bare timber

this might be the water based varnish which will dry very quickly especially on raw wood,so make sure also if u get this quick drying one that its not stain based as these are terrible for leaving brush marks/strokes on wood as they dry too quick!!!

Tom B. Stones

Originally posted by mad m
i have my house all varnished with no stain applied to woodwork before varnishing as i knew in when varnish is applied to woodwork the varnish makes it a little bit darker and over a time it gets darker from sunlight etc.....

I've been varnishing floors of late. Ronseal has a (recenlty launched?) variation on its "Diamond Coat" floor varnish called "Crystal Clear", which claims not to darken wood. This turned out to be as good as its word, and has brought up red deal a treat after three or four coats.

It comes in matt and satin finishes (no gloss, I think). We went for the latter (and have been pleased), but its a matter of personal preference (and in my case that would rule out gloss in any case).

And it's water-based, so the fumes are far less irritating and brush-cleaning is a doddle. Whether that leads to problems in terms of a lacklustre performance down the line remains to be seen. (The packaging makes the same "ultra-tough" claim as the regular, polyurethane-based Ronseal Diamond Coat, which I have used in the past. The latter does darken wood, and is a finish which takes a lot of wear and tear.)

Incidentally, I used the same "floor" varnish on the skirting and architrave. The thinking was, "why not?". When bought in 5L pots (still a hell of a price at over €60 a go, but a better bet than 2.5L at approx €40), it was actually cheaper than buying a "non-floor" varnish.

Tom B. Stones

Originally posted by mad m
I'm thinking of using the Ronseal that says its dry in 20minutes or so. (Or am I kidding myself?!?)

That could be the "Crystal Clear". It is touch-dry in 20 mins (give or take), and re-coatable after two hours.

Tom B. Stones

Just had a look for a Ronseal website. Everyone seems to have one these days.

Links: The company's floor varnishes in general, and Crystal Clear in particular.

mad m

@Tom.B.Stones
Well its amazing what they are coming up with these days manufacturing paints...Did you put that crystal stuff on new floors?....thing i just wanted to point out if your applying waterbased paints over previously Varnished wood(being oil based)you would want to make sure u have it sanded down well as the water based paint just sits on top of the old varnish and sometimes on doors too if you have hand marks or dirt not de-greased it will ciss the water based varnish...

On the waterbased paints as i said they are coming up with great stuff these days i use from time to time a water based anti-rust paint made by a german company and i have to say its amazing,it dries in no time and gives a sound coat.....

So if your going Waterbased make sure u keep using waterbased paints in future......

Tom B. Stones

mad m wrote:

Did you put that crystal stuff on new floors?....thing i just wanted to point out if your applying waterbased paints over previously Varnished wood(being oil based)you would want to make sure u have it sanded down well as the water based paint just sits on top of the old varnish and sometimes on doors too if you have hand marks or dirt not de-greased it will ciss the water based varnish...

Did indeed...

mad m wrote:

thing i just wanted to point out if your applying waterbased paints over previously Varnished wood(being oil based)you would want to make sure u have it sanded down well as the water based paint just sits on top of the old varnish and sometimes on doors too if you have hand marks or dirt not de-greased it will ciss the water based varnish...

...but yours is a very fair point.

superfarney

mad m wrote:

@Tom.B.Stones
Well its amazing what they are coming up with these days manufacturing paints...Did you put that crystal stuff on new floors?....thing i just wanted to point out if your applying waterbased paints over previously Varnished wood(being oil based)you would want to make sure u have it sanded down well as the water based paint just sits on top of the old varnish and sometimes on doors too if you have hand marks or dirt not de-greased it will ciss the water based varnish...

On the waterbased paints as i said they are coming up with great stuff these days i use from time to time a water based anti-rust paint made by a german company and i have to say its amazing,it dries in no time and gives a sound coat.....

So if your going Waterbased make sure u keep using waterbased paints in future......

Hi,
Can you tell me the name of this German varnish. And also where I could get it?

mad m

superfarney wrote:

Hi,
Can you tell me the name of this German varnish. And also where I could get it?

I think its called Aquaprime,Im not sure you can buy this stuff from a shop as my job only gets it in especially.

Im sure though if you goto either Dulux,Fleetwood which are situated on Davitt Road near Inchichore they might have their own brands.