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Colour Restoration

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  • 26-07-2004 4:35pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 121 ✭✭


    Does anyone know what can be used to bring metallic paint colour up again?

    I had a panel respayed recently and its more shinier than the other panels along side it. Will the panel darken down over time?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 88,978 ✭✭✭✭mike65


    Your old paint has proberly become oxyidsed (sp) which means its brilliance fades and you get a faily dull hue which often is'nt obvious unitl you get the T-Cut polish out.

    261.gif

    Which I would reccommed as the starting point, you can get this stuff in any Motor factors. If that does'nt get you there then something like coloured polish will help. Note these are the cheap options if you want ot get serious buy a rotary orbital polisher and get to know the Meguiars product line!


    Mike.


  • Registered Users Posts: 121 ✭✭Peter C


    Cheers Mike,

    How often would i need to use T Cut?

    I am assuming it wears off over time?

    Or will the other paint fade down over time too?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 88,978 ✭✭✭✭mike65


    T-Cut should only required once in a blue moon. After that just regular wash and waxing.

    Mike.


  • Registered Users Posts: 121 ✭✭Peter C


    thanks again Mike


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,659 ✭✭✭✭dahamsta


    Just to emphasise what Mike's said: T-Cut specifically shouldn't be used more than one in a blue moon because it does exactly what it says on the... erm, bottle -- it's a cutting compound that slices a layer of paint off the car. Apply it enough and your bare metal will start showing missus. Oo-er.

    adam


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,180 ✭✭✭Interceptor


    If you are trying to match 'shinyness' then the t-cut coloured wax which Mike65 mentions removes oxidation for DIY use, its less aggressive than straight t-cut. Try and get/borrow a rotary polisher to get the best finish.

    I'd go back to whoever sprayed it and get some of the buffing compound they use (better still, get them to buff it in for you).

    Be careful that you aren't trying to compensate for slight colour differences - metallics are notoriously hard to match and if panels aren't blended properly the difference can be very noticeable.

    'ceptr


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,264 ✭✭✭RicardoSmith


    Originally posted by interceptor
    If you are trying to match 'shinyness' then the t-cut coloured wax which Mike65 mentions removes oxidation for DIY use, its less aggressive than straight t-cut. Try and get/borrow a rotary polisher to get the best finish.

    I'd go back to whoever sprayed it and get some of the buffing compound they use (better still, get them to buff it in for you).

    Be careful that you aren't trying to compensate for slight colour differences - metallics are notoriously hard to match and if panels aren't blended properly the difference can be very noticeable.

    'ceptr

    We've an ancient car that has re/pink panels, badly oxidized. I tried the coloured T-Cut and while it looked ok for a couple of days it then went back to its original oxidised state. Would I get a better result with the non coloured T-Cut?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 88,978 ✭✭✭✭mike65


    Not sure how much trouble you want ot take but some "original" T-Cut might be worth a go but you MUST wax the car after using t-cut.

    Look for a hard wax compound like
    http://www.easyautopart.com/turtle_wax_super_hard_shell_paste_wax.html

    Mike.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,180 ✭✭✭Interceptor


    Ricardo, the pink oxidation you describe is characteristic of early-mid nineties water-based paints (Toyota used it on the Carina II and they all went pink). The t-cut wax is less aggressive - its mainly for polishing, original t-cut might shift it but as Mike says, you need to wax afterward and be careful to buff in a circular motion or you will get scratch patterns.

    Maplin have rotary buffers at a knock down price of 29.99 - I'd recommend you treat yourself, go to an auto paint shop (Vinny Byrne, Sinnott Place D3?) and get Farecla G3 and G10 buffing paste and starting on an inconspicuous spot, buff a test patch (inside the boot lid?) with the G3 followed by the G10. Finish with t-cut polish, also on the buffer and then pour yourself a cold one.

    Or find an autobody shop and pay them to do it for you.....

    'ceptr


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,264 ✭✭✭RicardoSmith


    I've been looking at that rotary buffer. I might get it. The car is a 2nd car, and worth nothing so I won't pay for someone else to do it. But if I thought I could spruce it up a bit I would. At the moment it looks a bit dire.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 973 ✭✭✭Gmodified


    Maplin have rotary buffers at a knock down price of 29.99

    This will be total waste of money. You really need one of these when restoring paint work http://www.topoftheline.com/makrotpol.html

    I got one and will never use anything else



    Ricardo,

    not always it's possible to restore the paintwork, Daihatsu charade was brutal on pink oxidation.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,180 ✭✭✭Interceptor


    Yesh, howeffa at 199dollah plus post and pads its worth more than anyman Charade or Carina II.

    Blue Hammerite and a flat stick to spread it on with is your best bet. Or use up the dregs of whatever paint is in your shed to make a nice hippy-dippy mobile....

    'ceptr


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