Separate Hob and Oven - 1 mains cable ?

mrbungle

Okay,

New House is nearly ready:
I've bought a separate hob and oven, I noticed that there is only 1 cable in the recess for the oven. I reckon this is for the hob as they usually draw down more current that ovens.

I thought there would be a 13A 3 pin socket there for the oven but there isn't.

Is it possible to wire the oven into the hob, like in series, only problem here I guess is that it is not protected by a fuse ?
I heard an alternative is to fit a spar onto the cable going to the hob, not sure what this envoles..... (probably an electrician !!)

Any advice appreciated !

Quatre Mains

Hello
its v rare for an oven to have a separate plug, just wire it into the same box.

Borzoi

Johnnycabs wrote:

Hello
its v rare for an oven to have a separate plug, just wire it into the same box.

Like the man says, they're typically both off the one box, that's on it's own circuit from the mains fuse board.

Stoner

you have a couple of considerations, initially if the hob or the cooker has a white skinny flex coming out of it and is rated for 13 amps then you can plug either in, as there has been an influx of small ovens and hobs into the matket recently , particularly into apartments , it enables developers to run smaller cables from your fuse/mcb box to the cooker position and save about €80 per apartment.
99% of the time one number 6 sq cable fed via a 32Amp MCB (fuse) in the board will supply your cooker, however this current is too large for the flex that leave some hobs, ovens, usually the oven is rated highest, and a 6 sq cable will feed the oven and a parallel connection can be taken ot the hob (ie is assume that you ment parallel connection as a series conection would be a short circuit that would be very dangerous).

Most of the time people ignor the ratings and feed the oven with 6 sq.mm PVC PVC T+E cable (as the oven is the biggest load not the hob) and feed the hob from the oven. The 13 Amp fused spur you are considering could be wired onto the flex between the hob and the oven

In a nut shell its most likely as follows
connect the oven with the grey 6sqmm PVC PVC T+E cable that should leave the cooke switch, parallel connect the hob from the terminals in the cooker,
Ensure all is safe and powered down initially,
and a sparks would do it for about 60 quid , and if series and parallel connections confuse you then get a sparks and spend the money, cos its not worth the risk

Lex Luthor

Stoner wrote:

you have a couple of considerations, initially if the hob or the cooker has a white skinny flex coming out of it and is rated for 13 amps then you can plug either in, as there has been an influx of small ovens and hobs into the matket recently , particularly into apartments , it enables developers to run smaller cables from your fuse/mcb box to the cooker position and save about €80 per apartment.
99% of the time one number 6 sq cable fed via a 32Amp MCB (fuse) in the board will supply your cooker, however this current is too large for the flex that leave some hobs, ovens, usually the oven is rated highest, and a 6 sq cable will feed the oven and a parallel connection can be taken ot the hob (ie is assume that you ment parallel connection as a series conection would be a short circuit that would be very dangerous).

Most of the time people ignor the ratings and feed the oven with 6 sq.mm PVC PVC T+E cable (as the oven is the biggest load not the hob) and feed the hob from the pver. The 13 Amp fused spur you are considering could be wired onto the flex between the hob and the oven (as the oven is the biggest load not the hob)

In a nut shell its most likely as follows
connect the oven with the grey 6sqmm PVC PVC T+E cable that should leave the cooke switch, parallel connect the hob from the terminals in the cooker,
Ensure all is safe and powered down initially,
and a sparks would do it for about 60 quid , and if series and parallel connections confuse you then get a sparks and spend the money, cos its not worth the risk

I agree here...if the cooker or hob is rated for 13A, then it is safe to plug to a normal 13A socket.

If not, then I would connect the 6mm sq T+E from the cooker socket to the cooker. Get yourself another couple of metre of 6mm sq T+E and connect from the cooker terminals to the hob terminals. Make sure you tighten down on the connections on the cooker tight.

Basically, the Brown wire on the cable from the socket goes to the 'L' terminal on the cooker, blue to the 'N' and the Yellow/Green to the Earth. Then same color codes from cooker to hob.

You might want to take the cooker wall socket off the wall as sometimes the sparks leave them disconnected.

If you've wired a plug in the past, then you should be able to do this. Just switch off the ELCB for the cooker before any work and check everything with a multimeter/phase tester.

Victor

If you don't know what you are doing, get an electrician.

Typically both appliances are taken through the one point, which is rated at 63amps. No other appliances should come off this point, unless separately fused.