Knocking sounds when Wheels at full lock

Gryzor

hi

recently i've noticed a knocking sound from me the front of me motor when i lock the wheels fully at anything upto 30mph.....probobly can't hear it above the engine over that...

from the bit of surfing i've done...it seams it may be CV joints???

Are these a big job to replace??

1995 Mazda 323F 1.5

Thanks

daveg

Gryzor wrote:

hi

recently i've noticed a knocking sound from me the front of me motor when i lock the wheels fully at anything upto 30mph.....probobly can't hear it above the engine over that...

from the bit of surfing i've done...it seams it may be CV joints???

Are these a big job to replace??

1995 Mazda 323F 1.5

Thanks

I've developed the exact same problem (00 Audi A4) so I'd be interested in the reply's. I'd say it is CV joints though....

mike65

Yep its your CVs if its front wheel drive. They can be replaced by the DIY hardy but its a bit of a fag to be honest as you have to replace the rubber boots which are packed with grease. Still that said I've done it more than once and its not technically difficult just messy.

http://www.users.bigpond.com/jack_stands/automotive_advice/CV_uni_joint/cv_joint.html

Mike.

ToxicPaddy

Exact same problem here on a 97 Mondeo.. but only happens when car is at
full lock turned to the right and in reverse.. work that one out..

So when car is in full lock turning either left or right going forward, then
everything sounds fine...

Get the local mechanic to have a look methinks.. Is it an expensive job?

Tox

Gmodified

Yeah , sound like one of the cv joints. Center nut(outer shaft ) is hard to undo, many times I had to use air driven torque wrench to get the bastardo off.

Also depending on the clip type for rubber boots, you may need to use special tool
or
just use cable ties which do the same job and are widely used by smaller garages

BrianD3

Do you get a single "knock" as you wind on full lock or do you get a continuous knocking when you drive on full lock? If it's the former it's likely to be something like a ball joint, worn steering rack, split bush in the suspension etc. If it's the latter then it's probably a CV joint.

BrianD3

Gryzor

BrianD3 wrote:

Do you get a single "knock" as you wind on full lock or do you get a continuous knocking when you drive on full lock? If it's the former it's likely to be something like a ball joint, worn steering rack, split bush in the suspension etc. If it's the latter then it's probably a CV joint.

BrianD3

continous knocking for me anyways.....seems conclusive enough its the CV's...must go check the prices.. :eek:

daveg

Gryzor wrote:

continous knocking for me anyways.....seems conclusive enough its the CV's...must go check the prices.. :eek:

Ditto. Is it expensive to repair?

Gryzor

daveg wrote:

Ditto. Is it expensive to repair?

just got a quote from "Limerick Brakes"....€54 +VAT each (includes Boots).....add labour on top of that....anyones guess.. :rolleyes:

mike65

108 + 21% = 130 + 50 per side = 230 euro. Roughly!

Mike.

Gmodified

well without going mad one mechanic should do 1CV joint in 45min , ok say 1hour per side which is plenty.

total=two hours of work



go on tell us

Gryzor

just confirmed it when i got home....the rubber boot on the left joint was torn....in two pieces...but the right one seems intact.....

Gryzor

well shes in with the mechanic as we speak.....the lads are fighting with my joints....the old ones are siezed in apparently....there was mention of heating the hubs to get the old ones out :eek: ........can't wait for this bill!!!

Gmodified

Gryzor wrote:

well shes in with the mechanic as we speak.....the lads are fighting with my joints....the old ones are siezed in apparently....there was mention of heating the hubs to get the old ones out :eek: ........can't wait for this bill!!!

maybe they should unscrew center nuts first



only messing

WhiteWashMan

ToxicPaddy wrote:

Exact same problem here on a 97 Mondeo.. but only happens when car is at
full lock turned to the right and in reverse.. work that one out..

So when car is in full lock turning either left or right going forward, then
everything sounds fine...

Get the local mechanic to have a look methinks.. Is it an expensive job?

Tox

exactly the same problem on a 98 Si.

Gryzor

got the job done yesterday...only 65 yoyo's for the labour.......BUT the lads managed to knacker a bearing in the left front in the process...there allways seems to be a "but".. :rolleyes:

just wondering should i have to fork out for this.....the bearings were fine before i left it in...the story i got when i went in again this mornin was "oh yeah they go sometimes when we change the cv joints, a risk of the job"

jut wondering...

BrianD3

The bearing was probably knackered anyway and fell apart as soon as they started messing with the hub, driveshaft etc. Common enough thing to happen, same thing happened to my mechanic (who's an extremely competent guy) while he was changing brake shoes on my old car.

BrianD3

Gmodified

BrianD3 wrote:

The bearing was probably knackered anyway and fell apart as soon as they started messing with the hub, driveshaft etc. Common enough thing to happen, same thing happened to my mechanic (who's an extremely competent guy) while he was changing brake shoes on my old car.

BrianD3

****e can happen but if you replace brake pads and kill the bearings that bit too much.


they do go very quickly, usually when mechanic's preferred tool is universal spanner (hammer) . You should be advised before the procedure that this may happen.

It's like saying , O yeah i can stick rear view mirror back on your windscreen but glue can crack your glass in month's time. Mechanic should be aware of this things as this is what they do .

the least guy chould do is :

offer you free fitting when you get the bearing.

i think this would be fair ,

BrianD3

you replace brake pads and kill the bearings that bit too much

In the case of brake pads I would agree. But if you're removing the hub nut (eg for taking off a brake drum, changing a driveshaft or brake disc etc.) then you can find that it's just the last straw for an already knackered bearing so it just falls apart. But yeah the mechanic should fit the new bearing without any additional charge and let the owner pay for the part itself.

BrianD3

Gryzor

Gmodified wrote:

****e can happen but if you replace brake pads and kill the bearings that bit too much.


they do go very quickly, usually when mechanic's preferred tool is universal spanner (hammer) . You should be advised before the procedure that this may happen.

It's like saying , O yeah i can stick rear view mirror back on your windscreen but glue can crack your glass in month's time. Mechanic should be aware of this things as this is what they do .

the least guy chould do is :

offer you free fitting when you get the bearing.

i think this would be fair ,

yeah...what pissed me off the most was that they said they took the car for a testrun after they did the joints. when i went to pay for the job there was no mention of a bearing gone. Its bloody loud enough you couldn't miss it. :mad:

i'l be coming to some "arrangement" allright.