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Solid floor

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  • 23-11-2004 11:16am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 106 ✭✭


    Hi,

    After recently purchasing a 22mm solid floor, we have now run into issues with its fitting. Firstly the front door is too low down so the floor will not fit under, and the fitter tells us that the door cannot be shaved. Also he recommends that the floor be put on battons, or glued (which as other people have said can cost over 100euros a tub!!).

    Can someone tell me why a 22mm solid floor cannot be floated like you do a semi-solid, and has anyone had the issue of the front door, and what people did to go around this??? Half tile/half wood the hall ??

    thanks,

    Donnie


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    Donnie,

    Solid wood floors can be floated but they are normally only the Junckers type. Reason you normally don't float the floor is that to float it, you have to glue the boards together. Solid floor boards don't stay together on their own without glue very solid, so it takes an eternity to glue them, cos each few boards has to be clamped together.

    I recently put down solid floor and it all went on battens. I had the same problem with the front door, so what I did was go for a 18mm floor and also reduced the batten heights that they went on to. I originally started with the idea of 18mm battens and 22mm floor, but got away with 12mm battens and 18mm floor. Reduced height of 10mm.

    Our fitter told us that he recommended a batten height of minimum 15mm. When he went to measure up and realised the front door issue, he dropped that down to 12mm. He told me the odd chance when he would be nailing the boards to the battens, that due to the lower batten, the odd nail would hit the concrete subfloor and bend back up and out through the board. I did 45sq yd and only 1 nail came up about 1mm above the surface which was filed down.

    I made my battens out of 12mm thick sheets of 8'x4' marine ply ripped to 2" strips.

    Hope that helps.

    Tom


  • Registered Users Posts: 185 ✭✭JimmyL


    Hi,

    I have the same problem with the front door. Since, I am fitting the floor myself, I going to try to raise the door with washers on the hinges or plane the bottom (and possibly put in a new threshold).

    The reason why you cann't float solid wood floor is because solid planks have a tendency to warp/cup. However, I have come across some planks that you can supposedly float - haven't tried it myself.

    I am going to glue floor - after spending a few grand on the planks, there is no point skimping on a couple hundred euros on adhesive.


  • Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 64 ✭✭2Poc


    Is there any reason why the front door can't be taken off, planed & re-hung??


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    2Poc wrote:
    Is there any reason why the front door can't be taken off, planed & re-hung??
    I thought that would be possible in my situation, only there is a metal bar running along the bottom of the door.


  • Registered Users Posts: 106 ✭✭hazbot


    thanks for the info on the fittin methods :)

    2poc, did look at taking off the door and shaving a bit, but would then have to start messing with the frame, as its set farily low :(


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  • Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 64 ✭✭2Poc


    I actually got a floor fitted by Des Kellys over the weekend, the front door barely opens but they said they're not responsible for it.... Not sure if I have a bar at the bottom or not but I'm gonna have to look into shaving it..

    Has anybody else had any dealings with these 'Professional' fitters?
    My 'Des Kelly' experience has been disasterous & I've come to the conclusion that they actually sent a team of Monkeys to fit the floor...


  • Registered Users Posts: 106 ✭✭hazbot


    I think its up to the fitters the shave any doors which can catch the floor, no point opening the door and scrapping the floor :(, however my guy won't touch the front door. Suppose if he wrecks the door its up to him to buy a new one!!!


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