MCI Descisions regarding fixed protection in Dalkey and Glendalough

Evil Phil

Those of you with an interest have probably read this already but I'll post it as an FYI. I think you can reply to mci at eircom.net, if its a different address then you'll know as soon as I know. Alternatively you could write, via snail mail, to:

Rock Climbing Commitee
Mountaineering Council of Ireland,
Sport HQ,
13 Joyce Way,
Parkwest Business Park,
Dublin 12.

You can contact the commitee directly through the MCI site but those details shouldn't be posted here. I do think that if you're not a member of one of the clubs listed below you should make your voice heard, as an *independent* climber I'm not represented by the choosen group but should be.

Anyway, here's the important bit:

MCI Climbing Commitee wrote:

A meeting was held in Sport HQ on Monday 7th November to which the following groups involved in
climbing in Dublin/Wicklow were invited to send two representatives: Baltinglass OEC, Bolton Street, Club Cualann, Dal Riada, Defence Forces, DCU, Irish Mountaineering Club, Kevin Street, UCD, TCD, Tiglin.

Those who sent representatives to the meeting were Club Cualann, Irish Mountaineering Club and Tiglin.

The venue was arranged by the MCI. and the meeting was called by Sé O Hanlon, Chair of the MCI Climbing Committee with a view to facilitating climbers in Dublin and Wicklow to carry out the function of managing their use of the natural resources available to them.

The MCI Good Practice Guide For Walkers and Climbers and Bolting Policy requires that anybody
placing new fixed equipment or replacing existing equipment should take careful account of local
climbing ethics. The purpose of this meeting was to review proposals for the replacement of fixed
equipment at Glendalough and Dalkey and to establish that any replacement or installation complies with local climbing ethics.

Ab point at Glendalough
It was noted that there has been a permanent abseil point at Expectancy Slab since at least the early 1960’s. It consisted at various times of a hook embedded in cement, a steel wire sling around a boulder, a chain around a boulder, a chain attached to expansion bolts. Recently the steel wire sling was found to have deteriorated and was removed and replaced by a rope which is, by its nature, a temporary measure.

It was noted that a debate on this subject had taken place on the forum on www.climbing.ie and that those who expressed an opinion in that forum had been in favour of a better, safer abseil arrangement in Glendalough than that which had existed up to now.

It was agreed by those present that in the interest of safety a permanent abseil point should be reinstated at the same location.

It was agreed that the abseil point should be positioned so that the descender could check their security properly before committing to the equipment. The solid rock to the right (when looking down Expectancy) of the two perched boulders was seen as the best location.

It was agreed that an anchor point based on expansion bolts would be the safest, most feasible and least obtrusive.

It was agreed that, because erosion has made the descent below Deirdre more and more difficult, a
second anchor point should be placed there. This should be based on an existing rock spike and needs only the provision of a permanent sling.

Dalkey Quarry
It was noted that there are many routes here which lack secure anchors for a leader belaying a second.

It was agreed to encourage climbers using the Quarry to install cliff-top belay stakes in places where they would not be a hazard to pedestrians but would provide a higher level of security to belayers than immature furze bushes.

Action to be taken
Those present expressed regret at the fact that only a quarter of those invited to attend the meeting came along. It was decided that the views of this meeting should be circulated to all of the groups invited to attend and that they be given a final opportunity to express an opinion which should reflect their members’ opinions and not that of a small group within their club. Replies are required within 4 weeks.