Skoda octavia front brake change

rambler

Can anyone help me, am looking to replace my front brakes and would like to do it myself, can anyone give any tips on procedure or anyweb links would be greatly appreciated.

lomb

sure what do u want to know? get the pads from gsf in clondalkin park west. take off the wheels, and basically u want to find the bolt that u undo that allows u to slide out the pads, its pretty simple really. remember to pump the pedel before u go and drive it. also open the brake fluid cap after wiping it to get the crud off it. the fluid gets pushed up when u compress the pistons to make the new pads fit. sometimes u need like a clamp to push the pistons in, i use a large g clamp but i suppose a piece of timber and a hammer would work also.

AMurphy

If your's starting from the very basics as in never changed the brakes in anything before, might be best to get a Haynes manual at least. That should be adequet for this task.

Apart from that, seen one seen em all. So if you have changed some other car.. then this one should not present a problem.

Gotya's to keep in mind;
get a good set of spanners and Allen (Hex) keys.
How frozen are the bleed nipples, if never disturbed. Get a ring spanner of teh appropriate size, put a slit in the ring with a hacksaw, then clamp it to t he nipple hex with a vicegrip.
Get some rubber or better plastic (see through) hosing that you can pop over the nipple tip,
You need to release (open) the pads up a bit to get the calliper off them and or get the calliper and pads off the disk.
Wedge a strong screwdriver between the end (ears) of the pad and the calliper drive the piston back about 1/8" or so.

note if there are anti rattle springs & shims, These may come with the new set of pads or may not, eigher way, if they don't make sure you do not damage the set on the car.

Anti-rattle edhesive and high temp calliter grease is a good purchace BEFoRE you do anything, as is a box of rubber gloves (wear two pairs) and a dust mask. Some small brass wire brushes and a rough rasp.

I'll assume you have jack, stands and chocks for the wheels.

If the disks have a high rusted ridge, use the rasp and the engine to remove the rusted raised edge. (might need to clamp the disk, by replacing 3 of the nuts and packing behind them with washers. Some disks are have a retaining screw, so no need for this.

usually, it is possible to remove the lower slidebolt and swing the calliper up and out of the way... depends on the current design.

However, once removed, hod wo you plan to drive back the piston.

Easiest and best way is to crack open the bleeder nipple and using a 1/2 Diameter threaded rod nut and plate, push them back using this simple tool.
If not... a G-clamp over the back, while using one of the old pads over the piston is both cases.
By opening the bleeded, it is easier to drive them back, removed the old fluid and gunk from the system and insures it is not driven back up the system and into ABS valves, seals, pumps, etc.
If your reservoir is close to full of fluid and your pistons are extended fully, you might want to remove some of it from the reservoir first, to prevent it overflowing and causing a mess. Do not go below the min level mark.

It is good to clean and apply a small film of high temp grease to the ends of the pad metal, where it bears on the calliper slides.
And put a film of antirattle adhesive between the pad-back and the parts of the piston and calliper it contacts.