Dry Lining - insulation Best product?

GG66

I'm renovating a cottage and building a timber frame extension. The extension will have warmcell insulation.

I'll need to dryline the existing cottage and plaster. I'm told the best option is to use an inuslated plasterboard. It has a foil back, couple of inches of insulation and then plasterboard. Person didn't know name of product.

can anyone advise what it is or if there are alternative, better, cheaper ways of doing it.

Thanks

stapeler

It's made by kingspan and comes in 1" & 2" sheets foil back, It also comes stuck to the plasterboard. Complete with plasterboard it works out at approx 30 euro a sheet. Available for Chadwicks...

patrido

the two main products are ...
kingpsan thermawall tw56 and tw52.
xtratherm xt/tl

very similar products, with very similar specs. both come in lots of different sizes from 25mm up to about 75mm. that's the insulation thickness... add 12.5mm for the plasterboard.

not sure about kingspan, but when you order xtratherm, it's quoted in total thickness so say for 25mm insulation, order 37.5mm.

GreeBo

Does that go straight onto the blockwork or would you use battons?
What do you do if you need to say fish a new co-axial cable through the wall?

(That said Im thinking of putting down large/wide skirting boards for all my cable fishing needs...)

patrido

both... they can be stuck with dry wall adhesive or screwed to treated laths.

if you're screwing em, the void can be used to run services. not sure about the options when sticking, but iirc, gypsum (who used to make a similar product) used to have a chasing blade. it was a hand held blade that cut a channel in the board. but maybe i dreamt that

GG66

Thanks for the info Padrido, Stapler. I'll get some quotes on both. Do you know which is cheaper or how mcuh it generally varies for different thickness?

That said Im thinking of putting down large/wide skirting boards for all my cable fishing needs...

Greenbo, I'd assumed they would run the wiring behind it on studs, better make sure. How would you work with the wide skirting boards work for instance?

GreeBo

Well the skirting board will be about 2 inches wide and screwed on
Actually let me describe better
I will have "normal" skirting say 3/4 inch thick 4-5 inches high
This is screwed onto batons top and bottom of about 1 inch thick again.
this will give me a 3 inch high, 1 inch deep channel behind my skirting for all my wiring needs.
Then I just put socket (or whatever I want) onto the skirting and bobs your uncle.

GG66

I will have "normal" skirting say 3/4 inch thick 4-5 inches high
This is screwed onto batons top and bottom of about 1 inch thick again.
this will give me a 3 inch high, 1 inch deep channel behind my skirting for all my wiring needs.
Then I just put socket (or whatever I want) onto the skirting and bobs your uncle.

I'd planned on using battons to create a 2" space between my warmcell walls and plaster board in the timber frame part of the extension. This would allow for wiring etc. I hadn't considered how I might do the same with the cottage refurb and dry lining. This sounds like a neat solution, is it likely to create a gap in the insulation or will the wall be drylined behind the skirting?

patrido

GG66 wrote:

I'd planned on using battons to create a 2" space between my warmcell walls and plaster board in the timber frame part of the extension. This would allow for wiring etc. I hadn't considered how I might do the same with the cottage refurb and dry lining. This sounds like a neat solution, is it likely to create a gap in the insulation or will the wall be drylined behind the skirting?

i could be wrong but don't the wiring regulations specify that sockets must be at least 100mm above floor level?

GreeBo

GG66 wrote:

I'd planned on using battons to create a 2" space between my warmcell walls and plaster board in the timber frame part of the extension. This would allow for wiring etc. I hadn't considered how I might do the same with the cottage refurb and dry lining. This sounds like a neat solution, is it likely to create a gap in the insulation or will the wall be drylined behind the skirting?

no, I would put it ontop of the plasterboard.

padrido wrote:

i could be wrong but don't the wiring regulations specify that sockets must be at least 100mm above floor level?

Quite possibly, if its an issue you can alway chase up the 100mm and stick the socket there. It still saves fishing wires behind a wall.

If you are going to put them ion the skirting it can be a good idea to mount them upside down, saves the wires possibly getting crimped/mushed.

stapeler

I got a few more sheets of 8by4 (without plasterboard) today and came in at EU22 a sheet in Brooks Thomas (off the Naas Rd). There stocks were very limited....
With the Plasterboard insulation there is a fixing thats like a nail with a 2 inch plactic head, You drill straight through into the conctete and tap them in.
I'm currently doing a dormer room and what I've done is put up a damp barrier followed by the 2 inch kingspan. Over this I've built a frame in 3 by 2 screwed to floor and wrafters. This gives 2" of cavity and allows for wiring & plumbing to be concealed. Also allows for further insulation...It works well if you're happy to sacrifice a couple of extra inches off the room.
Rgds
Stapeler

GG66

I'm currently doing a dormer room and what I've done is put up a damp barrier followed by the 2 inch kingspan. Over this I've built a frame in 3 by 2 screwed to floor and wrafters. This gives 2" of cavity and allows for wiring & plumbing to be concealed. Also allows for further insulation...It works well if you're happy to sacrifice a couple of extra inches off the room.

I guess you put plasterboard over the 2" cavity? What did you use for damp barrier?

stapeler

1000 gauge plastic strait to the wall....2 inch xtraterm, 3 by 2 battons, a little fibreglass to fill the gaps topped off with 1/2 inch plasterboard......

Eurorunner

Which has the best insulation properties - rockwool or fibreglass? And is there much of a difference?

Builderwoman!

GG66 - not sure if you have purchased your insulated plasterboards yet. I am researching prices and have found some big price variances. Leave it with me and I will post more later when one company confirms the thermal conductivity rates for their boards so that I know we are comparing like with like. Check back in later for more. It would be good if we could share info!

GG66

Builderwoman! wrote:

GG66 - not sure if you have purchased your insulated plasterboards yet. I am researching prices and have found some big price variances. Leave it with me and I will post more later when one company confirms the thermal conductivity rates for their boards so that I know we are comparing like with like. Check back in later for more. It would be good if we could share info!

Thanks Builderwoman, I haven't purchased anything yet, I've got a builder doing the build and he's given a fixed price for the project. He also has his own ideas on insulation which aren't as generous as mine. I'm just making sure I have some knowledge when working with him. I'm leaving the country on Monday for a month so want to make sure he has clear instructions.. I'd say he'll purchase most things locally but I can ask him for the prices he gets.

I'd be interested to know which product is the best insulator?

Builderwoman!

Hi GG66, from what I can gather from the thermal conductivity figures I have been given for Hithern and Kingspan the one that beats them is 50mm is the Knauf Phenolic Laminate. This board has a thermal conductivity of 0.018W/mK. The others are at .023

Regarding your builder. I doubt very much that he will pass on any savings he gets to you. Having a builder with a fixed price for a project does help you know where you stand though.

Desmo

patrido wrote:

both... they can be stuck with dry wall adhesive or screwed to treated laths.

if you're screwing em, the void can be used to run services. not sure about the options when sticking, but iirc, gypsum (who used to make a similar product) used to have a chasing blade. it was a hand held blade that cut a channel in the board. but maybe i dreamt that

http://www.aerobord.ie/prods_building/prods_building_FRAME.html
gives some alternative ways of sticking the boards up. I am hoping to do it
this christmas on a small part of me house. Have you any experience of the drywall adhesive? My wall already is painted (emulsion) and I worry that the adhesive may not stick properly. I talked to a builder and he said to use battens but that is what builders are used to. He sounded amused when I suggested adhesive and or drill through fixings.

Wish me luck; gulp :-)

Des

GG66

Builderwoman! wrote:

Hi GG66, from what I can gather from the thermal conductivity figures I have been given for Hithern and Kingspan the one that beats them is 50mm is the Knauf Phenolic Laminate. This board has a thermal conductivity of 0.018W/mK. The others are at .023

Where did you come across this?

Regarding your builder. I doubt very much that he will pass on any savings he gets to you. Having a builder with a fixed price for a project does help you know where you stand though.

Most likely not on items like this but I'll have to ensure he's not gone for the cheapest (translate worst) option. He has been fairly reasonable though. He's given me his thrid party prices for things like windows & underfloor heating. He's agreed to take any savings I make on a cheaper quote off the fixed price. So far I've shaved 2k off the underfloor.