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Fitting a mat well

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  • 01-01-2006 6:33pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 62 ✭✭


    The hall in my house has been tiled but the gap under the door is now insufficient to place a mat. I thought about planing the bottom of the door and fitting a weather deflector on it but the joiner said the joint would be too close to the bottom of the door and would weaken it. So, I am going to have to retro-fit a mat well.

    Could someone please provide a step-by-step guide to cutting the outline,removing the tiles, type of mat etc.etc. as I have never done this before. Thank you in advance.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 78,436 ✭✭✭✭Victor


    My advice. Buy an internal and external mat. A mat well would be a pain in the hole to type about. :D :v:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 62 ✭✭Geegee


    Victor wrote:
    My advice. Buy an internal and external mat. A mat well would be a pain in the hole to type about. :D :v:

    Would do this if I could....outside mat would get wet and would have to jump onto inside one as the door won't go over the top.


  • Registered Users Posts: 148 ✭✭bro'


    Geegee wrote:
    Would do this if I could....outside mat would get wet and would have to jump onto inside one as the door won't go over the top.
    Had to do something similar to my last place...but only had a concrete floor to deal with. Here goes anyway.
    Hired myself a Angle Grinder with appropiate blade and an electric Hilti gun [jack hammer] to dig out the conrete. Mark out the size of matting [make sure it is large enough as too narrow and people will step over it!]
    Cut out the outline for the mat and then remove the unwanted tiles. Assuming you have a concrete floor base then cut several lines accross the rectangular area as this aids the removal of the masonary! I did'nt worry about the depth of the cut or the mess from the Jack hammer as I knew the depth of the ''Coir'' matting [as seen in all shop entrances etc] was about 17mm [check in your local carptet store for exact size. Once I knew the area was cleared out I bought some B&Q ready cement and made a screed tool for a depth of 17mm to level off the cement. This meant my floor would be level and at a controlled depth for the matt to be flush with the surrounding area. When cutting Coir matt make sure you use a template for sizing it as finish is everything.

    I hope the above is of help


  • Registered Users Posts: 78,436 ✭✭✭✭Victor


    Thanks for typing that bro' :D

    Try your best to match the size of the mat to the tile size. You don't want to have exposed tiles edges.

    Ideally you would also use a metal frame to protect the edges of the tiles as they would tend to take a fair bit of abuse. Talamats (in Tallaght) or a range of other companies do them. The frame can be more expensive than the mat, so try to get a premade one that matches your tiles.

    Try to salvage some of the tiles for any repairs, but floot tiles tend to have about 90% adhesive coverage, so may not come off in one.


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