Homebrew Beer Howto

Blisterman

I would recommend waiting a day or two and taking a hydrometer reading, before repitching.

mazza

brickmaster wrote: »

Hey all, long time lurker first time poster and all that.

I've been homebrewing a while using these very basic Mr Beer kits I used to get every time I went to the US. Had ok results but got bored with it.

I bought myself all new equipment and am currently I'm brewing a brewferm wheat beer kit using spraymalt and brown sugar.

The problem I've encountered is I think my yeast is dead. The container with the beer is airtight and the air lock isn't bubbling. I don't know what I did wrong. I hydrated the yeast in 150 ml of boiled water which had cooled to exactly 25 degrees. I left it for 10 min and then pitched to the beer. There is 500g spraymalt and 250g sugar in the beer so it has plenty to ferment. The beer is being kept in the hotpress that has a fairly constant temp of 21-24 degrees.

I'm thinking of adding more yeast. Does the type of yeast make a huge difference to the beer?

Also, since I started the brew last sunday, I was thinking of moving the beer into the second container this weekend. Should I still do this even if i've just added the new yeast or should i allow it to sit another week before moving?

Thanks

Just to be clear, did the airlock bubble at all or is it just that it has stopped now?

By a strange coincidence I started a Brewferm Wheat beer (along with an Ambiorix) on Sunday evening too, just like yourself, using same spraymalt / sugar mix. Everything else the same as yours, except I think mine is warmer (25 deg as per instructions) as I'm using brew belt.

By Monday morning it was fermenting very vigorously and was still at in Monday night. By first thing on Tue morning, it had stopped fermenting COMPLETELY - no action at all.

This surprised me as the previously brew I did (my first) continued to ferment slowly for the full 3 weeks I had it in the fermenter.

The Ambiorix continued to bubble for another day (it took more sugar), but then it too stopped completely. I checked a sample of it with the hydrometer and it is nearly at specified bottling point.

I'm assuming...hoping...all is good with both of them even though fermentation was fast and furious at the 25 degrees stated in the instructions. Anyone?

I assume there is no way you missed the fermenting if it only lasted 24 hours for example? I guess not.

Sorry I don't have any huge insight to offer, but maybe my experience is of some help. Your best bet is to follow the advice of the other more expert guys here...

guildofevil

If it's been in the fermentor since last Sunday with no activity, I would be worried at this stage. Take a hydrometer reading. It's the only way to be sure whether fermentation has been taking place or not.

guildofevil

About the yeast: yes. In this type of beer the yeast is quite important. A lot of the flavours associated with wheat beers come from yeast activity.

This kit probably came with a sachet of Brewferm Blanche yeast, which is a good yeast for Belgian wit beers. You can get the yeast separately from thehomebrewcompany.ie



Having said that, you will end up with beer of some sort, even if you use a completely different yeast and you never know; you might prefer it.

10-10-20

Just on the topic of second fermenting, my brew is at the bottling range on the SG, but is not very clear with a lot of flocculate at the top/sides.
I am considering moving it into a second bucket for a week to allow it to clear off a little, but I am unsure about one aspect.

My understanding is that the secondary fermentation adds to the effervescence of the beer by trapping the CO2 at pressure, so will moving it to a new plastic bucket and adding sugar yield less head in the final product because of the loss of the enclosed atmosphere of the bottles?

brickmaster

Thanks for the replies.

I didn't bubble at all which is why i'm quite worried. Thats 4 full days of zero activity.

I won't be home until tomorrow night so I'll take a reading then. If I do pitch more yeast should i leave it in the same container with the crud for another week or transfer in into my other container? I suppose i'm asking if the beer will have all the sugary goodness the yeast needs if I transfer it.

I think i'll just use the yeast I have at home. Can't remember what its called but I'll take a chance.

oblivious

10-10-20 wrote: »

My understanding is that the secondary fermentation adds to the effervescence of the beer by trapping the CO2 at pressure, so will moving it to a new plastic bucket and adding sugar yield less head in the final product because of the loss of the enclosed atmosphere of the bottles?

Secondary fermention in the bottle or keg will carbonate it, also called natural conditioning. If done in another fermentation vessel the gas will just escape.

But the is no real point to doing secondary for standard beers, the yeast will flocculation just as much, keeping it in the primary also allow the yeast to clean up the beer and it reduces the chance of infection/oxidation in the transfer process

BeerNut

10-10-20 wrote: »

My understanding is that the secondary fermentation adds to the effervescence of the beer by trapping the CO2 at pressure,

If you're planning to serve directly from the secondary, then yes. But if you're going from secondary to bottle, then no gas is trapped anywhere until the bottles are sealed and primed.

10-10-20 wrote: »

so will moving it to a new plastic bucket and adding sugar yield less head in the final product because of the loss of the enclosed atmosphere of the bottles?

Basically, you have to have the beer primed and sealed for a couple of weeks before serving to let the gas build up in an enclosed space. If you transfer to secondary (without adding any sugar) and then prime and bottle when you're happier with the clarity, the finished product will be properly carbonated.

10-10-20

Thanks guys - my question is answered.

I'll bottle tonight providing I have a stable reading on the hydrometer.

Feck the clarity for the first run!

Scobius90

I know there is an issue with UV and beer which is sorted by the use of brown beer bottles or opaque plastic kegs. Does this also apply to ciders and wine (eg elderflower sparkiling wine)? The reason is I have some recipes for, in particular, elderflower wine, which suggest using 2/3 litre plastic mineral bottles (with careful opening to reduce the pressure build-up) which are of course clear plastic.

Thanks to all in advance,
Scobius

oblivious

Not that I have head of as the issue with beer is the reaction of the isomerism hop acid with the UV radiation. but I may not bee go to keep the wine or cider consistently in direct sun light

Jugs82

Hi Guys,

Made my first batch last Saturday and am going to take a reading tonight but after a few days of bubbling, its seems to have stopped.

My question is should I use Glucose or Sugar after i syphon the beer to the secondary bucket?

Also, what amount of each should be used? i.e. if using Glucose, should you use less than if you were using sugar?

Last one, after bottling - how long is recommended before actual drinking? Im assuming it is OK to bottle this weekend after moving to a secondary bucket and adding the glucose/sugar

Alot of questions, i know but any help would be greatly appreciated

Cheers

oblivious

Jugs82 wrote: »

My question is should I use Glucose or Sugar after i syphon the beer to the secondary bucket?

Also, what amount of each should be used? i.e. if using Glucose, should you use less than if you were using sugar?


Either are good, but table sugar is cheaper, around 100g per 20l

Last one, after bottling - how long is recommended before actual drinking? Im assuming it is OK to bottle this weekend after moving to a secondary bucket and adding the glucose/sugar

Either are good, but table sugar is cheaper, around 100g per 20 liters. 2-3 week is generaly a good time to allow carbonation , the yeast to settle and clear up the beer

BeerNut

Jugs82 wrote: »

Made my first batch last Saturday and am going to take a reading tonight but after a few days of bubbling, its seems to have stopped.

That doesn't mean fermentation has stopped, though. Less than a week seems like a very short time.

Jugs82 wrote: »

My question is should I use Glucose or Sugar after i syphon the beer to the secondary bucket?

I'm slightly confused here. It sounds like you're planning to bottle now, which means what your transferring to isn't a secondary but a bottling bucket. A secondary is where you leave it in the bucket to continue fermenting for another while.

Jugs82 wrote: »

Also, what amount of each should be used? i.e. if using Glucose, should you use less than if you were using sugar?

Use this calculator. Glucose = Corn sugar.

There's more on priming and bottling in this article.

Jugs82

BeerNut wrote: »

That doesn't mean fermentation has stopped, though. Less than a week seems like a very short time.

Thanks - there are still bubbles in the airlock of the bucket, its just that it has slowed down to a point where it is almost completly stopped.

I made the batch last Saturday morning, and checked it most days and today was the first time that i noticed that it was almost completly stopped, so that was 6 days incl. Sat. - is this long enough?

I'm slightly confused here. It sounds like you're planning to bottle now, which means what your transferring to isn't a secondary but a bottling bucket. A secondary is where you leave it in the bucket to continue fermenting for another while.

Also in relation to bottling - should i transfer the beer to a secondary bucket for a while as you mentioned to let it continue fermenting? and if so, how long would you recommend?

Then when it comes to bottling, would you syphon the beer straight from the bucket it is in to the bottles? (after adding the necessary sugar/glucose)

Thanks - i think i just mixed the difference between a bottling bucket and a secondary bucket

Cheers for the advice and help

oblivious

Jugs82 wrote: »

Also in relation to bottling - should i transfer the beer to a secondary bucket for a while as you mentioned to let it continue fermenting?

No, just use the bucket for bottling

BeerNut

Jugs82 wrote: »

Thanks - there are still bubbles in the airlock of the bucket, its just that it has slowed down to a point where it is almost completly stopped.

Could be the lid has got a bit loose, which is fine. Taking gravity readings are the only way to be sure fermentation has stopped. If it's still reading a bit high today, take a reading every couple of days next week to check if it's changing. Bubbling means fermentation is happening, but no bubbling does not mean that no fermentation is happening.

Jugs82 wrote: »

is this long enough?

It doesn't sound like it to me, but you won't know until you read the gravity.

Jugs82 wrote: »

should i transfer the beer to a secondary bucket for a while as you mentioned to let it continue fermenting?

If the gravity is still high, you can do this but it's not necessary. It apparently cleans up the beer a bit.

Jugs82 wrote: »

and if so, how long would you recommend?

You know what I'm going to say next : until the fermentation has stopped and the gravity is at bottling level. The beer I made I gave about a week in primary and two in secondary before bottling.

Jugs82 wrote: »

Then when it comes to bottling, would you syphon the beer straight from the bucket it is in to the bottles? (after adding the necessary sugar/glucose)

I transfer it from the fermenting bucket into a clean, sanitised bucket which already has the priming solution in it. I then syphon from this to the bottles. This takes the beer off the dead yeast at the bottom of the fermenter, which means you won't get it in your bottles.

Jugs82 wrote: »

Cheers for the advice and help

Happy to assist.

Jugs82

Great advice - cheers

baconsarnie

Congrats to all on a wonderful thread with loads of advice. I'm a complete novice (to boards.ie as well as homebrew!) who has only recently brewed my first brew (bottled last week) and all things considered, it's looking pretty good (tasted good too!). I was following advice from Charlie Papazian's "The Complete Joy of Home Brewing" (3rd edition) and he recommended boiling the homebrew kit, sugar and a few litres of water for about 45 mins. I did this with my first kit (a Coopers Lager kit) and it seemed to work fine. I'm about to start another kit (Coopers Brewmaster Wheat beer kit) and was wondering if any of the experts here could advise me- is it necessary to do this? It isn't a huge effort, but am i wasting my time? Again, fair play to all the people with the experience for adding to this thread- pity i hadn't discovered it before i'd started, but at least no major calamities as yet!

BeerNut

Yep, the better kit beers I've had have indeed been boiled. Just make sure you have some way of getting your wort down to pitching temperature in as short a time as possible. Also, don't use sugar: get some dry malt extract instead. It'll make a huge difference to the taste.

oblivious

There is no need to boil kits and it can be bad for them. As the wort has already been boil for that recipe, the bitterness for the hops extract. Further boiling can effect the colour, flavour and the fermentability of the beer. An boiling the raise the question of cooling the wort which is an extra headache that kit does not need.

BeerNut

Yeah, fair enough. I'd go with oblivious on this.

baconsarnie

Thanks BeerNut & Oblivious. As much fun as it was boiling up the kit for a nice smell in the kitchen, waiting for the wort to cool was a pain in the backside alright!

gaz wac

Hi Lads,

Finally getting around to making my first brew this weekend :eek: ( nerves are setting in). Someone had a link to the Irish Craft Brewer website with a step by step article on how to brew but I cant find it on the site! Ive gone through each post on this thread and I still cant find the link...anyone able to help me out? Im going to be using:

http://thehomebrewcompany.ie/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_12&products_id=16

using

http://thehomebrewcompany.ie/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_36&products_id=185

Anything I should be carefull of ??..did i even get the right stuff

Thanks for the help...ill post back with my results as im sure ill need some more info

Gaz

BeerNut

You're after this article, I think.

I reckon you'll be grand with what you have, though don't expect what comes out to resemble Corona: it's actually a blonde ale you're making.

Let us know how you get on.

gaz wac

Thats the one BeerNut..cheers

Ahh I dont really mind what it will taste like, just fun reading up on it, trying it out etc also it came with the kit so..

Also bought this http://thehomebrewcompany.ie/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_12&products_id=469

in case the first batch is actually drinkable . Looked around their site and there is actually alot I wouldnt drink i.e wheat and dark beers so hopfully this will keep me busy for a few weeks.

Thanks again..still abit confused re priming bottles i.e sugar on teaspoon or the other way ( cant find the name) but ill read up on it more over weekend.

Cheers

BeerNut

gaz wac wrote: »

Thanks again..still abit confused re priming bottles i.e sugar on teaspoon or the other way ( cant find the name) but ill read up on it more over weekend.

If it's just an easy life you're after, the teaspoon of sugar is hard to beat.

There's more information on batch priming in the bottling guide here.

gaz wac

teaspoon of sugar it is so

gaz wac

Hi lads,

just a few more questions if you wouldnt mind answering . I have about 40 brown bottles for my brew which I now think will not be enough. I plan on using the teasppon of sugar in each bottle method, but could I use 2Ltr coke bottle if I run out of bottles? How will I know how much sugar to use? Also, how you you fill your container with the remaining 20 liters of cold water, do you use a sterlised hose or just keep filling smaller containers and pore in?..and finally...ive looked at the Coopers dvd and a few youtube clips and I think id rather use plastic bottle..does anyone know where you can get these ?

BeerNut

gaz wac wrote: »

could I use 2Ltr coke bottle if I run out of bottles?

Yep, as long as you've sanitised it and all the rest. Just don't keep it too long (some chance eh? ) and keep it out of the light when you're storing it.

gaz wac wrote: »

How will I know how much sugar to use?

It's not an exact science. I'd be inclined to put a level teaspoon of sugar in a 50cl bottle, so that's four of them for two litres. First time out I'd say it's better to have your beer slightly flat beer rather than overly volatile.

gaz wac wrote: »

Also, how you you fill your container with the remaining 20 liters of cold water, do you use a sterlised hose or just keep filling smaller containers and pore in?..

This is topping up your fermenter? I preboil water and let it cool overnight in a big cooking pot, then pour it in.

gaz wac wrote: »

I think id rather use plastic bottle..does anyone know where you can get these ?

You mean like these? Or do you mean for fermentation? People I know who use water-cooler bottles for fermenting have acquired them from the water-cooler guy at work.