Homebrew Beer Howto

oblivious

boopolo wrote: »

.Lactose = is a sugar that not fermentable (will not be not converted to alcohol by the yeast). It can be used to create sweetness in beers, stouts or ciders.

Not really that sweet, it more add body with a sweet back ground

boopolo wrote: »

turbinado.

not inverted, just semi refined sugar

boopolo

oblivious wrote: »

Not really that sweet, it more add body with a sweet back ground

Erm, I said it can be used to add sweetness.

not inverted, just semi refined sugar

Yep yer right, thank's, edited it. Some people use it as a replacement for candi sugar.

boopolo

Away from sugar.

I need some help.

I just dropped my glass thermometer on the floor and it has broke. Where can I get a replacement in a bricks and mortar?

Jugs82

Just sitting her drinking a few bottles of my first ever batch and am looking forward to starting my second.

I used the Woodfordes 3kg kit and it tastes pretty nice and crisp - i was just wondering what others recommended in the 3kg Kit range? Just thinking that i might put two kits on at once the next time, Woodfordes again and something else...

Any tips, advice would be great

oblivious

boopolo wrote: »

I just dropped my glass thermometer on the floor and it has broke. Where can I get a replacement in a bricks and mortar?

where are your based, these may be of use

http://www.grapengraindublin.com/ deliver in the Dublin area, some of The Health sore do equipment and also the in a brick and mortar shop in athlone called Best Brew

Here is a like to the contact detail as boards don't allow post of personal mobile numbers http://www.irishcraftbrewer.com/Community/viewtopic.php?t=2741

Apparently the is another in limerick http://www.irishcraftbrewer.com/Community/viewtopic.php?t=2754

oblivious

boopolo wrote: »

Some people use it as a replacement for candi sugar.

The rock candi is waste of money, but the candi syrup is divine

boopolo

I have no beer left at all.:mad:

All my Tarwebier is gone. Now that I am more organized I expect to have a constant flow.

I have 50 bottles of Grand Cru priming atm, but won't be really drinkable for about 8 weeks.

I have a Kriek kit, a Brupaks Birkby Bitter kit, and another Tarweibier kit.

I will start the Kriek and the Tarweibier later today.

Have a Demi-John here to make up a gallon of cider for a friend. I am just using Lidl 100% apple juice.

I presume that I will not have to treat the juice with a campden tablet as it is pasturized and should not contain any wild yeast? Thoughts?

boopolo

oblivious wrote: »

The rock candi is waste of money, but the candi syrup is divine

Yes. I see lots of people giving out about whats called rock candi or rock candy in the USA, as some were getting it mixed up with Belguim Candi Sugar (liquid/syrup) that has carmel

Will try my local pet shop for a thermometer in a while. Failing that I will get a meat probe type.

Yes I saw that post from Donal on the forum last night. Good luck to him.

Saruman

oblivious wrote: »

brick and mortar shop in athlone called Best Brew

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There is a homebrew shop in Athlone? Where is that? Ever been?

Never mind, got more info on ICB site

boopolo

I got this thermometer in a home care shop in Blanchardstown SC.

BaZmO*

Got all my stuff yesterday so I'm gonna start my first brew over the weekend. A couple more questions if you don't mind helping us out again....

I'm gonna go with something similar to this recipe and instructions for brewing in a demijohn.

450g dried malt extract
270g honey
11g coriander
6g orange rind
11g Hallertau hops
60min 5g
30 min 3g
5 min 3g
1 sachet Danstar Windsor Yeast

I'd prefer to do a wheat style beer like Hoegaarden, and having looked online for clone recipes, they all seem similar to the above, except for the type of DME, Yeast and Honey additive.

I'm going to use Wheat Spraymalt but it comes in a 500g bag.
1. Can I just use the 500g instead of using the honey as I'm not particularly keen on using the honey anyway.

I'm also going to replace the Yeast in the above recipe with Munich Wheat Beer Yeast.

Some questions on the Yeast.

In the recipe he states that I don't need to make a Yeast Starter.
2. What is this? I was just going to rehydrate the Yeast as per the instructions on the package then add it to the Wort.
3. When do I add the rehydrated yeast to the Wort? While it’s in the pot after it has been cooled? Or do I just put it into the Demijohn, then pour the Wort on top, or vice versa? And do I have to get air into the mixture to help the Yeast along?
4. Am I looking to cool the Wort to somewhere between about 17 and 23 degrees celcius?
5. Where can I get Muslin for when I’m pouring the Wort into the Demijohn? And does this have to be sanitized first or can I just boil it in some water?
6. I was just gonna leave the Hydrometer in the Demijohn while it’s fermenting. I reckon that should be ok?
7. When do you know it has finished fermenting? When the readings on the Hydrometer plateau?
8. How do I know how much Glucose to use to prime the bottles?

And finally….

9. When boiling up the brew I'm obviously gonna lose liquid due to evaporation, do I just keep topping up with fresh water?
Thanks for reading..

B.

BeerNut

BaZmO* wrote: »

1. Can I just use the 500g instead of using the honey as I'm not particularly keen on using the honey anyway.

Yes. you'll get something different, but it'll still be beer.

BaZmO* wrote: »

2. What is this? I was just going to rehydrate the Yeast as per the instructions on the package then add it to the Wort.

A starter is just a large amount of rehydrated yeast, bred and fed and ready to go immediately on pitching. Go ahead and follow the rehydration instructions, you'll be fine.

BaZmO* wrote: »

3. When do I add the rehydrated yeast to the Wort? While it’s in the pot after it has been cooled? Or do I just put it into the Demijohn, then pour the Wort on top, or vice versa? And do I have to get air into the mixture to help the Yeast along?

Pour it into the demi on top of the cool wort. When you pour into the demi, you want to get your wort all aerated -- pour from a height or whatever. Then bung the yeast in. Do not splash, shake or otherwise aerate the wort once fermentation has started.

BaZmO* wrote: »

4. Am I looking to cool the Wort to somewhere between about 17 and 23 degrees celcius?

Yes. I've gone as high as 27.

BaZmO* wrote: »

5. Where can I get Muslin for when I’m pouring the Wort into the Demijohn? And does this have to be sanitized first or can I just boil it in some water?

A kitchen supplies shop. Cheesecloth will do the same. I just use a big sieve.

BaZmO* wrote: »

6. I was just gonna leave the Hydrometer in the Demijohn while it’s fermenting. I reckon that should be ok?

It might be difficult to read it through the foam on top of the beer.

BaZmO* wrote: »

7. When do you know it has finished fermenting? When the readings on the Hydrometer plateau?

That's it.

BaZmO* wrote: »

8. How do I know how much Glucose to use to prime the bottles?

Use a calculator.

BaZmO* wrote: »

9. When boiling up the brew I'm obviously gonna lose liquid due to evaporation, do I just keep topping up with fresh water?

You can leave it to the end and then top up to your desired final volume. Make sure your top-up water has been boiled though. I boil mine the day before and leave it somewhere cold overnight -- it helps with the wort-cooling process.

marceldesailly

BaZmO* wrote: »

G
In the recipe he states that I don't need to make a Yeast Starter.

B.

oh dear someone will not be amused:)

kenmc

marceldesailly wrote: »

oh dear someone will not be amused:)

Sure only men like beer :rolleyes:

BaZmO*

Thanks Beernut

BeerNut wrote: »

Pour it into the demi on top of the cool wort. When you pour into the demi, you want to get your wort all aerated -- pour from a height or whatever. Then bung the yeast in. Do not splash, shake or otherwise aerate the wort once fermentation has started

So I just pour it in? No need to stir it?
Or can I just put it in with the wort and then take my hydrometer reading in the pot before transferring it to the Demijohn?

BeerNut wrote: »

A kitchen supplies shop. Cheesecloth will do the same. I just use a big sieve

Is the Muslin even needed then?

BeerNut wrote: »

It might be difficult to read it through the foam on top of the beer.

On the ICB discussion thread someone mentioned that there shouldn't be any foam at the beginning or end of fermentation so I might be ok.

BeerNut wrote: »

Use a calculator.

How do I know which Beer and CO2 quantity to use?

marceldesailly wrote: »

oh dear someone will not be amused:)

marceldesailly

BaZmO* wrote: »

Thanks Beernut


So I just pour it in? No need to stir it?
Or can I just put it in with the wort and then take my hydrometer reading in the pot before transferring it to the Demijohn?

ye pour it straight in . if you take the reading before then add it to the demijohn there is the risk of adding unwanted bacteria to the sterile wort.

BaZmO* wrote: »

Is the Muslin even needed then?

no but it can be used to filter some of the larger bit out, such as the coriander and orange.so maybe in this beer it would be a good idea.

BaZmO* wrote: »

On the ICB discussion thread someone mentioned that there shouldn't be any foam at the beginning or end of fermentation so I might be ok.

i think you're better off keeping the hydrometer out of the demijohn.

BaZmO* wrote: »

How do I know which Beer and CO2 quantity to use?

it's a like wit or weissbeer style so go with that.

BeerNut

marceldesailly wrote: »

it's a like wit or weissbeer style so go with that.

Yeah, Belgian Wit is listed at 2.1 - 2.6. I personally hate over-carbonated beer, so I'd be aiming for 2.2 or 2.3 on this. I did my last ale at 2.1 and it was spot-on, though took a good three weeks in the bottle to get there.

BaZmO*

marceldesailly wrote: »

i think you're better off keeping the hydrometer out of the demijohn

How do I get my readings then?

Do I just wing it?

BeerNut

BaZmO* wrote: »

How do I get my readings then?

You should have a trial jar. You sanitise it, dunk it to collect some wort, and float the hydrometer in that. You can then either pour the wort back, or perform some ad hoc quality control assessment on it*.

*Drink it.

Saruman

There is no real problem with leaving a hydrometer in the bucket, the only problem is getting a good reading due to foam so its pointless. However if you secondary ferment like I do then you have no foam in the glass carboy (or better bottle) by this stage.
I recently picked up a very large hydrometer (Athlone homrebrew shop) to make leaving it in a glass carboy easy to read.

Once the hydrometer and hands that put it in are properly sanitised then its fine.

BaZmO*

BeerNut wrote: »

You should have a trial jar. You sanitise it, dunk it to collect some wort, and float the hydrometer in that. You can then either pour the wort back, or perform some ad hoc quality control assessment on it*.

*Drink it.

Because of the small quantity I'd be making in the Demijohn I'd have to put the Wort back in after I'd tested it. That shouldn't be a problem once everything is sanitised beforehand. Although, I don't have a trail jar but I do a like this one that I'll use.


My only problem seems to be taking the reading to know when the fermenting has finished as taking a sample at that stage would just be too awkward. That's why I was going to just leave the Hydrometer in the Demijohn.

BeerNut

BaZmO* wrote: »

Although, I don't have a trail jar but I do a like this one that I'll use.

You need a lot of wort in there to get the right depth.

BaZmO* wrote: »

That's why I was going to just leave the Hydrometer in the Demijohn.

Off you go then, and best of luck with it.

guildofevil

I use a turkey baster to take samples from my fermentor. Obviously I sanitise it first and it has never been used to baste a turkey (or anything else for that matter).

BaZmO*

BeerNut wrote: »

You need a lot of wort in there to get the right depth.

Tried it with water last night and only needed 300ml.

BeerNut wrote: »

Off you go then, and best of luck with it.

That's sounds ominous and quite foreboding.

BeerNut

BaZmO* wrote: »

That's sounds ominous and quite foreboding.

Relax, don't worry, and just give it a go. If the trial jar route isn't going to work for you then the only alternative is not making any beer. And that is definitely going to be a disaster

BaZmO*

When adding an airlock/bubbler do you add water to it so it acts like a water trap?

Saruman

Yes, its no good without water. Fill it half way.

BaZmO*

Saruman wrote: »

Yes, its no good without water. Fill it half way.

Thanks for that, although a quick Google got me the answer.

So, I got my first brew underway on Saturday. I ended up going for the recipe that was on the ICB site that I linked too.
I wanted to try a known recipe for my first brew.

It seemed to be a relative success so far. Although I did break my thermometer when sterilising everything!
Also, it took a while to cool the Wort, but I'll make sure I have more ice next time.

Just a quick query on the Bubbler. Is it normal for there to be so much froth in the first day?
The Bubbler filled with water seemed to be pointless as all the water was pushed out from it from the froth. I had to take the Bubbler out and clean it, sanitise it, put more water in it and stick it back in the Demijohn the next day.

I was thinking that if it is normal, well then the next time I do batch it would probably be handier (and less messy!) to have a tube coming from the top of the Demijohn into a bucket for the first day of fermenting and to then add the Bubbler?

Also, what type of beer is the Honey Ale so I can calculate the priming on the Calculator site that was posted?

Saruman

It is normal for that much foam. In fact I have had more than what you describe come out. I once lost about 5 litres of beer from a glass carboy as it foamed out the blow off tube and into a number of containers.

I would say if you are using a glass or plastic carboy without a lot of headspace then yes, use a blow off tube. You do not even need to change over to a normal airlock, the only advantage is you can see the bubbles easier in a standard airlock. Not a problem as you will get a better beer by leaving it in the fermenter for a couple of weeks anyway so it will be well finished fermenting.

You do not usually have an issue with a bucket as there is more headspace. My current batch is a full 5 gallons so I am getting some foam in my airlock. I need to clean it later.

Oh and on carbonation I would say do it as a standard English ale but it is up to you at the end of the day as the drinker, this is a handy guide:
ALES: -- CO2 VOLUMES
Barley Wine:
" Barley Wine -- 1.3 to 2.3

Belgian Specialty:
" Flanders Brown -- 1.9 to 2.5
" Dubbel -- 1.9 to 2.4
" Trippel -- 1.9 to 2.4
" Belgian Ale -- 1.9 to 2.5
" Belgian Strong Ale -- 1.9 to 2.4
" White -- 2.1 to 2.6
" Lambic Gueuze -- 3.0 to 4.5
" Lambic Faro -- ?
" Lambic Fruit -- 2.6 to 4.5

English Bitter:
" English Ordinary -- 0.75 to 1.3
" English Special -- 0.75 to 1.3
" English Extra Special -- 0.75 to 1.3

Scottish Ale:
" Scottish Light -- 0.75 to 1.3
" Scottish Heavy -- 0.75 to 1.3
" Scottish Export -- 0.75 to 1.3

Pale Ale:
" Classic English Pale Ale -- 1.5 to 2.3
" India Pale Ale -- 1.5 to 2.3
" American Style Pale Ale -- 2.26 to 2.78

English & Scottish Strong Ale:
" English Old Ale / Strong Ale -- 1.5 to 2.3
" Strong Scotch Ale -- 1.5 to 2.3

Brown Ale:
" English Brown Ale -- 1.5 to 2.3
" English Mild Ale -- 1.3 to 2.0
" American Brown Ale -- 1.5 to 2.5

Porter:
" Robust Porter -- 1.8 to 2.5
" Brown Porter -- 1.7 to 2.5

Stout:
" Classic Dry Irish -- 1.6 to 2.0
" Foreign Style -- 2.3 to 2.6
" Sweet Stout -- 2.0 to 2.4
" Imperial Stout -- 1.5 tp 2.3

LAGERS:
Bock:
" Traditional German Dark -- 2.2 to 2.7
" Helles Bock -- 2.16 to 2.73
" Doppelbock -- 2.26 to 2.62
" Eisbock -- 2.37

Bavarian Dark:
" Munich Dunkel -- 2.21 to 2.66
" Schwarzbier -- 2.2 to 2.6

American Dark:
" American Dark -- 2.5 to 2.7

Dortmund/Export:
" Dortmund/Export -- 2.57

Munich Helles:
" Munich Helles -- 2.26 to 2.68

Classic Pilsener:
" German Pilsener -- 2.52
" Bohemian Pilsener -- 2.3 to 2.5

American Light Lager:
" Diet/"Lite" -- 2.57
" American Standard -- 2.57
" American Premium -- 2.57 to 2.73
" Dry -- 2.6 to 2.7

Vienna/Oktoberfest/Marzen:
" Vienna -- 2.4 to 2.6
" Oktoberfest/Marzen -- 2.57 to 2.73

MIXED STYLE:
German Ale:
" Dusseldorf-style Altbier -- 2.16 to 3.09
" Kolsch -- 2.42 to 2.73

Cream Ale:
" Cream Ale -- 2.6 to 2.7

Fruit Beer:
" Fruit Ale or Lager -- varies

Herb Beer:
" Herb Ale or Lager -- varies

American Wheat:
" American Wheat Beer -- 2.3 to 2.6

Specialty Beers:
" Ales or Lagers -- varies

Smoked Beer:
" Bamberg-style Rauchbier -- 2.16 to 2.57
" Other styles -- ?

California Common;
" California Common Beer -- 2.4 to 2.8

German Wheat Beer:
" Berliner Weisse -- 3.45
" German-style Weizen (Weissbier) -- 3.6 to 4.48
" German-style Dunkelweizen -- 3.6 to 4.48
" German-style Weizenbock -- 3.71 to 4.74

BaZmO*

Thanks again Saruman.

I'll probably aim for a 2.1 - 2.2
I'd rather have more CO2 than less for the first batch.