Plasterboard in Bathroom Kitchen

lastbuilders

Hi,

I am doing a timber frame self build at the moment and have a query about the plasterboard in the bathroom and kitchen. I got plasterboard delivered along with the frame that is 12.5mm plain plasterboard. I have been told that you need to order stronger plasterboard to support cabinets in kitchen and special plasterboard in wet areas such as the bathroom?

Can anyone give me pointers on this? I have been told that an option is to put a sheet of ply behind the plasterboard in the kitchen for cabinets or to use plasterboard such as Gypsum Sasmox which is a lot stronger than standard. The studword is at 400 centers which I think may mean I don't need to ply or stronger plasterboard.

Any pointers would be appreciated as I am currently doing the first fix and will be slabbing soon. Also any sites with guidelines on slabbing would be appreciated as I am hoping to do this myself.

Thanks
Lastbuilders

CJhaughey

Double slab the bathroom walls.you can use the green boards if you think that the walls will be getting wet.
You shouldn't need any special slab for the kitchen just fix the units and cupboards directly to the studs.I recommend a collated screwgun for slabbing makes the job really fast.

towbar

Lastbuilder - things are progressing fast obviousily for you good stuff. I know our builder plans to use ply in the bathroom behind shower and wash hand basin.

Are you taping or plastering?

YAPP

and dont forget Sink and cistern support...!

Fit a solid 9"x2" between the studs at appropriate height,
same as you would when fitting rads to stud walls,
Really solid and will take huge domestic weights.....
Simple job, would only take 2 of you an hour to cut and fit,

remember, fit insulation first, then 9"x2" nogs, then vapour barrier, then slab.
Careful not to damage services allready fitted....!


S

noby

I put ply in the kitchen, behind the plasterboard. It just means you don't have to find a stud to screw into. Handy for the cabinets, and any other shelves you may put up in the kitchen.

lastbuilders

Do you think using ply is better than going for Sasmox plasterboards?

karltimber

noby wrote:

I put ply in the kitchen, behind the plasterboard. It just means you don't have to find a stud to screw into. Handy for the cabinets, and any other shelves you may put up in the kitchen.

Noby - was this also a tf house. if it were a block construction would you still use ply on battens under the plasterboard,

thx

lastbuilders

YAPP wrote:

and dont forget Sink and cistern support...!

Fit a solid 9"x2" between the studs at appropriate height,
same as you would when fitting rads to stud walls,
Really solid and will take huge domestic weights.....
Simple job, would only take 2 of you an hour to cut and fit,

remember, fit insulation first, then 9"x2" nogs, then vapour barrier, then slab.
Careful not to damage services allready fitted....!


S

I am do a service cavity on the external walls which is a 2*2 in front of the vapor barrier which you put insulation into and in which you run the services. This means you do not need to break the vapour barrier to put in sockets, light switches etc.

lastbuilders

towbar wrote:

Lastbuilder - things are progressing fast obviousily for you good stuff. I know our builder plans to use ply in the bathroom behind shower and wash hand basin.

Are you taping or plastering?

Things are going ok. Got the roof felted b4 xmas so was able to do insulation in external walls. Brickie will delay progress a bit as the windows can't go in until he is finished but hopefull ythis will be done by the end of February.

I have not decided yet whether to tape and plaster or just plaster. What is the standard way of doing it?? I will be plastering b4 painting but do you also tape b4 plastering??

CJhaughey

Yep you will need to put your paper tape or Fibreglass scrim tape on the joint before you skim to get a really good crack free finish.
I found the Profin? lite sp. readymixed tubs good much better than the Gypsum stuff which was way to hard to handle and sand.
I would recommend taping and joining as you can do it yourself if you have time.
It also reduces the hard echo that you get in skimmed rooms and hanging pictures means just hanging a picture not cleaning up a big crater of skimcoat that falls off the wall when you bang a nail in.

towbar

CJ
What is the disadvanatges of taping if any? How do they do around the windows and corners?

Does it work out cheaper, dearer or much the same as plaster?

I like the idea as it seems less messy but the builder I'm using is not overly convinced.


lastbuilders
The 2x2 service duct - How are you achieving this - 2x2 nailed across the studs and the wire drops in at the back of it. What spacing are you putting these at. Seems alot of extra work to protect the vapour barrier - how important is that barrier?

Are you adding insulation here in addition to whats already between the studs? or is that your only insulation if so kingspan or similiar I presume?

Roughly what part of the country are you in NSEW?

CJhaughey

Taping and joining can be done yourself if you are handy, I don't mean that you have to be a professional plasterer but that you need a steady hand and an eye for a good finish.
I have found that already my skills have improved with the finish I am getting now is very good, a very light sand and its ready to paint.
The main advantage is that taping is cheaper than hiring a plasterer- one of the most expensive and skilled trades.
With nearly all Slab now coming with a tapered edge it really couldn't be simpler.
Stick your self adhesive scrim over the join, and use a 2" spatula to force the readymix compound into the joint.
smooth and leave to dry this will take about 5 minutes for a 9ft join you just work along the wall filling the screw holes and taping the joints as you go.
Internal corners have a special 90º trowel that you just load and wipe down the corner.
External corners have a special metal reinforced tape to add support.
It is definately less messy than a plasterer dropping slop all round the house, and if you are floating a timber floor make sure that you have plastic on the floor before a plasterer comes near the place or you will kill him come laying time.
*chipping big lumps of dried plaster off the floor*
I am fitting cornice and reveals in our house so it is a little easier.
I am thinking of getting the kitchen and bathroom ceilings skimmed. all the rest I will do myself.

lastbuilders

towbar wrote:

CJ
What is the disadvanatges of taping if any? How do they do around the windows and corners?

Does it work out cheaper, dearer or much the same as plaster?

I like the idea as it seems less messy but the builder I'm using is not overly convinced.


lastbuilders
The 2x2 service duct - How are you achieving this - 2x2 nailed across the studs and the wire drops in at the back of it. What spacing are you putting these at. Seems alot of extra work to protect the vapour barrier - how important is that barrier?

Are you adding insulation here in addition to whats already between the studs? or is that your only insulation if so kingspan or similiar I presume?

Roughly what part of the country are you in NSEW?

I am putting 2x2 across studs at 400 centers. I am putting 40mm insulation between the 2x2 as well as putting 140mm into external stud itself. I was advised to do this to get the house as airtight as possible to reduce heat loss etc. I am also putting in a HRV system in, so the better the airtightness the more benefit I will get from that system. I am in the North East

noby

"Do you think using ply is better than going for Sasmox plasterboards?"

Lastbuilder, I've no idea. My BIL is a carpenter, and he recommended it.

karltimber, yes it's a tf house.