Staining Stairs

Judean Reg

I am considering sanding down my stairs (treads and risers) and applying stain and varnish. Problem is, there is quite a bit of paint to be removed from where the stringer was painted but I dont want to burn it off as I want to aviod damaging the wood as the stain I need to use will be quite light.

Has anybody done this before that could advise me on pro's and con's. I dont want the stairs to be too slippy either so advice on which products to use would also be muchly appreciated.

Cheers.

Judean Reg

Just thought I bump this one as I am going to start the work on it over the weekend and really could do with any advice possible.

I look forward to reading you replies.

Cheers!

sapper

I did it once by hiring out an edging sander to clean up the wood, it also got rid of any paint without any bother. The problem is that it the edging sander won't get right into the last inch or so of corner, so I used a flat wheel sanding drill bit and finally a lot of elbow grease and a floor scraper.

My God it was a b*tch of a job! I don't envy you! I've heard of one or two floor sanding contractors who refuse to do stairs....

Corkey123

You could paint on some Nitromors on the inaccessible parts. This will allow for easier removal of the paint

mad m

This job is a labour of love really,I know you dont want to go down the burning off method but Im afraid you will probably have to,get a heatgun. Take off the bulk of paint with gun and then get Nitromors and a bale of steel wool,apply nitromours and let sit for a few minutes and then scrub with steel wool.Remember to use good heavy gloves doing this method.

I done my string with a heat gun,took a while but it was worth it in long run.As I said get off main bulk with gun and apply strippers and use steel wool.Oh also get yourself a set of shavehook knifes,you can pick them up fairly cheaply in a diy shop.

God be with you!:)

Degsy

I did the same job last year,i used paint stripper,a scraper,sandpaper and a cheap orbital sander.It tookthe best part of three weeks and a tremendous amount of elbow grease,dust got everywhere and several times i felt like giving up completely ,it was however worth it and i managed to svae quite a few quid as well.My advice is go for it but dont underestimate the time,labour and hassle it'll cause!:)

Tobi2

Hi
I did this once in a previous house, and agree with above, it is a labour of love and very rewarding, but be sure you can finish the job, otherwise you will be tearing your hair out wondering will it ever end???!!

I used Nitromors too, paint scraper and an electric stripper..is that a heat gun? I cant' remember now as it was a few years ago, and claiming nappy brain for lapse in memory.
However, we loved the end result and it was worth it as the stairs looked completely different by the end of it all.

Best of luck
Tobi

Eurorunner

Which stain is best for a white deal stairs?

mad m

Eurorunner wrote:

Which stain is best for a white deal stairs?

Personally I wouldnt stain it,I'd just varnish it with a satin varnish.When I was on sites I used to give a stair a coat of Sanding sealer,its used by furniture companies as it drys fast(10mins),seals the wood with one coat and when you rub it down it leaves the wood very smooth,even better with another coat after sanding,but by god there is some vapour from it.Then just a couple of coats of varnish.

The reason why I'm suggesting you just give it a coat of clear varnish is that over a time the wood naturally gets darker from heating of house,sunlight etc.So after 6months it will look like you did stain it.This is of course if its a new stairs.

Eurorunner

I just used the sanding sealer (you were right about the vapour - great stuff!) on the steps - not on any of the timber each side, or the bannisters.

I am going to go back tomorrow and paint the lot - bannisters, steps, etc. with a coat of Dulux Clear Satin Varnish.

The lack of a sealer on the other bits isnt going to affect the look of the whole thing is it?

mad m

The lack of sanding sealer on other parts doesnt really affect it.You will just have to varnish wood one or more times than the sanding sealer.Make sure you give the sanding sealer a rub down before varnishing.No harm either if you wanted to give it another coat of sanding sealer before varnishing.

Just watch those fumes.

Eurorunner

Heading to the builders providers for varnish. Thanks for the info mad_m

boo boo

be careful, that dulux will yellow the wood. diamond coat in matt or satin a better bet

Eurorunner

Slapped on the first coat today - Ronseal Ultra Tough Clear Satin - and not Dulux - but I could have just as easily picked up a can of it instead as I wasnt aware of the yellowing:eek:

superfarney

Hello,
I've just bought a house and it has teak stairs in it . The wood is untreated so I was wondering what was the best was to treat this wood.

Any suggustions would be appreciated.

mad m

superfarney wrote:

Hello,
I've just bought a house and it has teak stairs in it . The wood is untreated so I was wondering what was the best was to treat this wood.

Any suggustions would be appreciated.

Well putting a stain on this wont make much of a difference.Best bet is to apply either a coat of sanding sealer and then a coat or two of varnish(Gloss/satin) or give the untreated wood at least 3coats of varnish,remember to thin out first coat a little to let it soak into wood.Remember also to sand in between coats. I prefer a Satin finish myself.

You can buy a bale of steel wool to sand down the spindles/handrail,use gloves!!