Servicing

Shrimp

I want to service my bike at home. So far I've noted down the following steps to service.

• Tire Pressure
• Breaks
• Gear Indexing
• Saddle/Handlebar Height (I may have grown)
• Oiling
• Also, I've got back and front suspension, as you can imagine If I'm cycling on roads I don't need either, therefore I'm going to tighten both as it's less efficient to keep them loose.

This is the list so far, please add to it if you can think of anything I'm leaving out.

Thanks

randomname2005

Shrimp wrote:

I want to service my bike at home. So far I've noted down the following steps to service.

• Oiling
  

(This may sound very basic ignore if it does) I presume you mean oiling your chain here, its really helpful if you clean your chain first before oiling to get any mud/dirt out of it.
R

Shrimp

yeah, thats what I was taking about, but thanks for the contribution.

Morgan

Your list covers most of it. Check the entire bike for anything broken or loose. This is a good resource for repair tips:

http://www.parktool.com/repair/

Shrimp

Hey thats very handy, cheers for that!

FergusF

Shrimp wrote:

I want to service my bike at home. So far I've noted down the following steps to service.

• Tire Pressure
• Breaks
• Gear Indexing
• Saddle/Handlebar Height (I may have grown)
• Oiling
• Also, I've got back and front suspension, as you can imagine If I'm cycling on roads I don't need either, therefore I'm going to tighten both as it's less efficient to keep them loose.

This is the list so far, please add to it if you can think of anything I'm leaving out.

Thanks

Looks like a good list, here are a couple more off the top of my head:
*Tires - check for bits of glass, stones, nails, splits, etc. before they cause a puncture.
* Wheels - spin to check that they run straight with no wobbles.
* Rack, mudguard, brake and other small bolts - check all bolts to make sure they are not loose.
* Headset - lift front end and ensure steering action is smoott. Next, apply front brake with wheels on the ground and try to force the bike forward to check for looseness.
* Oiling - be careful not to go overboard with the oil. Most modern wheels, headsets and bottom brackets are 'sealed' in the factory, oiling them will dilute the grease and make them wear out faster. Also most cables now have nylon linings, oiling them is not needed and will only attract dust and dirt which will cause faster wear. The only parts I oil regularly are the chain and brake pivots.

Mucco

Cleaning and oiling your brake and gear cables makes for smoother shifting/braking. For the gears, shift the chain to the largest cog, then without pedalling, move the derailleur back to the smallest. This loosens the wire and allows for oiling.
Might also be worthwhile monitoring your chain for stretch. I change my chain every 1500-2000km as it can damage the cassette/chainrings when it stretches.

jrey1981

I used to service my transmission - degrease the chain, all chainrings, cassette, rear derailleur with a good citrus degreaser - doing this when they are removed works best - clean and dry them and then refit and re-lubricate...

Oil the cables and check brakepads, and replace any if necessary.

Shrimp

Gave it a quick once over today...

Tightened Back Suspension
Tightened Front/Back Breaks
Oil Chain and Cogs(Front and back)
Saddle/Handlebar configuration

I got to reconfigure Rear Derailleur Hanger Alignment as it isn't staying in the gears I am putting it in. I have it in 1 - 4 and it'll start hopping to 1 - 3..

What would you recommend the bast wayto do this? or possiblereason why it's doing this? Could it be a case of the bike falling over to the right side, pushing the derailelleur body inward, bending the hanger?

silverside

don't go bending the hanger unless you are sure you need to (ie. if it bent in a fall/you can see it). you may be able to adjust the gear mech itself using the screws. It's a tricky enough job to describe but i'm sure theres a guide on the web somewhere.

Mucco

silverside wrote:

i'm sure theres a guide on the web somewhere.

http://www.bikemagic.com/news/article.asp?SP=&v=4&UAN=2955

Ferror

Shrimp wrote:

I got to reconfigure Rear Derailleur Hanger Alignment as it isn't staying in the gears I am putting it in. I have it in 1 - 4 and it'll start hopping to 1 - 3..

BAd bad idea, the hanger has got to be absolutley straight!

First check that the cable isn't slack, and most importantly that the cable isn't sticking in the cable guide. (a common cause of this is a partially frayed wire [not always visible] at one stage i was going through a cable every month or two due to this)

See how you get on, and as mentioned by silverside, ordinary adjustment is done using the 'stop screws' on the rear Derailleur itself.. (easy to get the hang of doing, just make small adjustments and view their effect)

Have fun and good luck

Funsterdelux

Check all the bearings: wheels bottom bracket and pedals

Funsterdelux

coz one day coming home from school the rear axel snapped and I ****ed up a few things on the rear.

DFJ

silverside wrote:

don't go bending the hanger unless you are sure you need to (ie. if it bent in a fall/you can see it). you may be able to adjust the gear mech itself using the screws. It's a tricky enough job to describe but i'm sure theres a guide on the web somewhere.

Try http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html