Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Plasterboard joint filling - bonding?

Options
  • 03-02-2006 5:14pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 135 ✭✭


    Hey everyone
    I'm finally getting round to plastering my new room. I have slabbed the lot apart from one wall which I'm gonna skim. The joints need to be filled. I have a bag of bonding and a bag of skimcoat. Would I get away with using skimcoat in the joints with adhesive tape mesh? Or should I use the bonding then put the tape on top, leave to dry then skimcoat?
    Also there is paint on the wall I'm going to skim. Can I skim directly over it or should I apply a PVA sealant?
    Any help much appreciated!!
    joe


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 9,005 ✭✭✭mad m


    Always apply Pva sealant when doing any type of work your going to do.Make sure the surface is sound and scrape off any pealing or flakey bits of paint first.

    As to the bonding,if its the bonding im thinking of dont use it,bonding is only used to fill out large gaps or holes in a wall or plant anglebeads on reveals before plastering.

    If you are handy at plastering then use scrim tape down the joints of plasterboard,this scrim tape will be self adhesive,get one bit up top and rol it down while pressing with a plastering trowel so that it sticks and then use trowel at bottom to cut tape.Then skim away.

    Alternatively you can get the other tap that has metal in middle of it(Cant remember name) Joint tape I think and just skim in the seams were plasterboards meet with joint filler mixed with some universal filler so that its easy to sand down....


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 135 ✭✭awishawash


    ta for the reply mad m. The bonding is a basecoat plaster, if I used it in the joints with the scrim and then skimmed over thatd prob b best but I'm lazy and woz wundering if i could get away with just the skim coat in the joints with the scrim.Want to avoid buying more materials, and use the stuff i have cos it goes off so quick.


  • Registered Users Posts: 759 ✭✭✭Corkey123


    Just tape the joint and skim the lot. There is no need for basecoat bonding. Do not use any type of PVA on the plasterboard as this could effect the bond between the plasterboard and the skim coat.

    If this is your first time to skim a full wall I'd suggest you do a bit of practise on a spare piece of plasterboard.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    If you are going to do the job do it right.
    Get a bucket of Profin semi-lite and use that in conjunction with the scrim tape and you will be fine.
    I would bet that if you have no experience with skimcoat that your walls will look shít as the stuff goes off so fast.
    It is also hard to sand after you have finished, much harder than the profin stuff.
    Skimming is a lot harder than jointfilling and taping


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 135 ✭✭awishawash


    used bonding with scrim tape last night and went to skim it all today...
    Skimming joints is a lot different to skimming a concrete wall!
    The bloody paper rips if you press too hard or wet it too much after the first coat, and using skimcoat plaster is impractical as it doesnt allow the working time needed for being so picky with the joints. Ive stopped, and am gonna wait and as CJ said do a job right if youre doing it.
    Can u get that stuff in any builders providers? Is it powder or what?Whats the working time like?
    cheers for the help


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Working time is about 1 hour in a warm room, but you can wet your trowel and smooth it after about 30 min.
    If you just scrim and fill to the scrim with a medium spatula leave over night to dry and then the next day use a 12" trowel and run it sideways down the joint to fill it flush.
    leave to dry 1-2 days and then put your finish coat on , (as the stuff will shrink a bit) then feather the edges out to 4" past the taper.
    Sounds like a lot of work but you only have one room right?
    I have to do a whole house!
    This will leave you with a small bit of sanding to do and you can paint directly on to the wall.
    Profin is a premix tub 12kg i think


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Entertainment Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 22,584 CMod ✭✭✭✭Steve


    Check this out.

    http://doityourself.com/wall/tapingdrywalljoints.htm

    I'll vouch for using Pro Fin, it's good stuff, very easy to work with (thanks again CJ).

    If you want a quicker solution, get a bag of gyproc joint filler to do the first fill with. It goes off pretty fast and does not shrink. Make sure you leave it 1-2mm below the final finish and scrape off excess after about 20mins. After this it's rock hard and you won't be able to remove it. Then finish with ProFin and you'll get a good result.

    Forget using bonding - except for filling large holes - and even then I've found the joint filler + scrim works much better.

    Forget trying to skim it - been there botched that, leave it to the pros.


Advertisement