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Crank pulley bolt

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  • 23-02-2006 10:23pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,063 ✭✭✭


    I did a service on my car today and decided to change the timing belt (which I have been putting off for ages). As I suspected the crank pulley bolt feels like it's welded on. It's broken an extension bar which I will replace with a better quality one tomorrow. I don't have air tools so it's just an impact socket, breaker bar and the special honda (moroso) tool for holding the pulley in place.

    Any tips on removing it? It's on a 98 Civic Coupe. Or is it just a case of brute force :rolleyes:


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 19,022 ✭✭✭✭murphaph


    Heat from a blowtorch might help. I'd try the brute force method first with a good long tube of steel over your breaker bar (like doing a hub nut). Is it a stretch bolt, does i require replacement when removed?

    Edit: It definitely has a right hand thread I presume?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,063 ✭✭✭GristlyEnd


    It's a normal right hand threaded bolt which doesn't require replacement but I have a spare one anyway. It's a common thing for them to be very hard to get off on a Honda. Just wish they would make it easier.

    Would probably be easier if I could get the car on a lift but I'll try again tomorrow.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,237 ✭✭✭AMurphy


    Here a few ideas you might investigate, they have been known to work, but I don't recommend them, preferring to weld up "a special hombrew" tool instead when needed. It's typically not that difficult with a few bolts, washers and some angle-iron or bar stock, especially those stron straps with punched holes you can pick up cheaply in hardware stores.
    Is there any tapped holes in the pully?. usually is.

    use a 3/4" drive T bat and socket always.

    Which direction does the engine rotate, relative to loosening the bolt.
    if the engine rotates in a direction that would remove the bolt if held. Then remove the sparkplugs, disconnec the coil and/or distributor so no sparks will be generated.
    Attach the T bar and socket to the pully nut and have someone keep in place with a tool. Position it so that when it turns it will hit the ground, stop and remove the bolt, without hitting parts of the frame or engine.

    Failing that;
    How many belt grooves in the pully?. The more the better. Cut as many belts as you have pulley grooves, unless you have a Poly-Vee belt in which case I belt will suffice.
    Wrap the end of the belt into the pulley groov(s) in the opposite direction to that required to remove the bolt, so as you turn the bolt, more wraps build up.
    Nail or G-clamp the belts to the side of a 2x4, on edge and positioned such that one end of the plank comes up under the pully and place a large body, concrete blocks on the other end, Essentially a great big strap wrench.

    Now stand on the "T" bar, or use an extension tube, while your assistant holds the belt bits.

    don't use heat as you'll destroy the oil seals.


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