Car Won't Start

zuutroy

Drove about 10 miles earlier today, went into the shop, and when I came out my car (Toyota import, auto box) wouldn't start. Pushed it out of the way, then it started, so I was heading down the road and it felt weak, with a bit of a weird ticking sound, then it died while going down the road. Pushed it a bit more then started again, but died on going into gear. So the basic cycle is: push it, it'll start but will die if you try to drive, until you've pushed it another bit.
Any suggestions?

phill106

im guessing...fuel pump?

zuutroy

Was thinking that, but when it does start, it'll run happily as long as I dont try to move it.

AMurphy

How fast do you have to get an automatic going in order to push start it?. about 50mph normally, if at all.

Anyway, what Model, engine, year.

So when you get it started, does it rev freely, or stutter and hesitate.
Is it one with a safety device on teh Shifter lever, ie, you must have your foot on the brake to move the gear selector, or can you drop it in/out at any time?.

And if and when you do put into gear, does it stall with a bang or just the engine peters out, even if you had it on a fast (2000rpm) idle?

pred racer

It sounds like dirt in your fuel system,it will rev fine but wont work under load.
Ive seen this on my dirt bike. its just has a simple carb on it though. im not sure if thats any help.

zuutroy

AMurphy wrote:

How fast do you have to get an automatic going in order to push start it?. about 50mph normally, if at all.

Can't push start auto's AFAIK

Anyway, what Model, engine, year.

Toyota Sera, 1991, 1.5.........same engine as Cynos, Paseo. Shares most parts with Starlet.

So when you get it started, does it rev freely, or stutter and hesitate.

Revs perfect, like nothing's wrong, though is it does actually get moving, it feels like it's gonna go at any minute

Is it one with a safety device on teh Shifter lever, ie, you must have your foot on the brake to move the gear selector, or can you drop it in/out at any time?.

Have to have brakes on to take it out of park

And if and when you do put into gear, does it stall with a bang or just the engine peters out, even if you had it on a fast (2000rpm) idle?

Engine just peters out calmly.

AMurphy

Pushed it a bit more then started again,

And then you state this;
So the basic cycle is: push it, it'll start but will die if you try to drive, until you've pushed it another bit.


This gave me the inpression you were push starting it... which would odd to say the least. So are we to assume pushing has or has not an effect on it restarting.... and when you push it, it's in neutral I assume.
Frankly I cannot establish a connection between the pushing and the failure or success in starting, you'll have to provide more clues. Any other observations. ie. loosing AT fluid, brake fluid, water, exhaust smoke, etc.
Does it make any effort to start, backfire...splutter but fails to catch or just turn over but little else, not event the smell of fuel from the exhaust.

Anyway, I get the impression this engine is producing only enough power to overcome internal friction and no more.
In which case I might first suggest you check the ignition and plugs. The plugs may be completely fouled, particularly if someone used the wrong plugs, in which case it will be both difficult to start and run.
And if not the wrong plugs, but still fouled, then you may have a ignition spark problem or running way too rich problem

Is it EFI or CArburettor?. and has a distributor with Electronic ignition, I'll assume

There may be a vacuum connection between the AT and the intake manifold to a "kickdown" mechanism, this forces the AT to change down gear on punching the gas pedal. If this system is leaking, you may have a lean mix or ATF in the intake.
Check the engine compression. if low, then it definitely will not develop much power, though it may run unloaded.
Check the timing, if it has shifted way off, your engine could start and run but not pull much.

What happens if you start the engine with the shifer in "N", and hold the car with your left foot on the brakes, .. Does it stall or will it run freely?.
Now while contuing to hold it with the brake, run it up to about 2000 rpm and hold it there, then pop it into "D" but continue to hold the brake and throttle steady?.

Package

you guys seem to know what your talking about so i have a problem of my own,,

ive a 96 manual opel astra,,,

its completely lacking torc,,,, it has got worse, but i put it down to dirt in the tank,, as when i filled it with petrol it wouldnt go properly,, slow take of and top speed of about 20 miles per hour,,, whereas if i filled it with a funnel and left it overnight,, it was grand-ish,,,,,

any ideas?

zuutroy

AMurphy wrote:

Pushed it a bit more then started again,

And then you state this;
So the basic cycle is: push it, it'll start but will die if you try to drive, until you've pushed it another bit.


This gave me the inpression you were push starting it... which would odd to say the least.

Sorry, what I did was push it to a safe place after it had died. Then it restarted when parked up, I didnt do an actual push start


So are we to assume pushing has or has not an effect on it restarting.... and when you push it, it's in neutral I assume.

My idea was that pushing it freed up some fuel flow problem, most likely nonsense

Frankly I cannot establish a connection between the pushing and the failure or success in starting, you'll have to provide more clues.

Neither can I, just providing as much info as I can for diagnosis

Any other observations. ie. loosing AT fluid, brake fluid, water, exhaust smoke, etc.

Nothing extraordinary at all

Does it make any effort to start, backfire...splutter but fails to catch or just turn over but little else, not event the smell of fuel from the exhaust.

cranks as if it's going to start, but doesn't catch. Slight intermittant grinding coming from somewhere, but has started with this noise present in the past

Anyway, I get the impression this engine is producing only enough power to overcome internal friction and no more.
In which case I might first suggest you check the ignition and plugs. The plugs may be completely fouled, particularly if someone used the wrong plugs, in which case it will be both difficult to start and run.
And if not the wrong plugs, but still fouled, then you may have a ignition spark problem or running way too rich problem

Is it EFI or CArburettor?. and has a distributor with Electronic ignition, I'll assume

EFI with electronic ignition

There may be a vacuum connection between the AT and the intake manifold to a "kickdown" mechanism, this forces the AT to change down gear on punching the gas pedal.

Does have kickdown, not sure how it operates

If this system is leaking, you may have a lean mix or ATF in the intake.
Check the engine compression. if low, then it definitely will not develop much power, though it may run unloaded.
Check the timing, if it has shifted way off, your engine could start and run but not pull much.



What happens if you start the engine with the shifer in "N", and hold the car with your left foot on the brakes, .. Does it stall or will it run freely?.

Can't be started in 'N'

Now while contuing to hold it with the brake, run it up to about 2000 rpm and hold it there, then pop it into "D" but continue to hold the brake and throttle steady?.

Thanks for taking the time to write all that!

Savman

Package wrote:

you guys seem to know what your talking about so i have a problem of my own,,

ive a 96 manual opel astra,,,

its completely lacking torc,,,, it has got worse, but i put it down to dirt in the tank,, as when i filled it with petrol it wouldnt go properly,, slow take of and top speed of about 20 miles per hour,,, whereas if i filled it with a funnel and left it overnight,, it was grand-ish,,,,,

any ideas?

best to start a new thread for this chief

AMurphy

cranks as if it's going to start, but doesn't catch. Slight intermittant grinding coming from somewhere, but has started with this noise present in the past

Check if it is from the starter/ringear. You could have a few teeth missing or very worn there. if worn, it may be a key to a very worn engine, hence no power.

Can't be started in 'N'

Well can you start and warm it in "P" and move it quickly to "N" and hold it there. And if you did what happens?.

btw, what happens if you simply put your foot firmly on the brake and holding it there, not doing anything else. other than ideling the engine.
jic, you have a really bad vacuum leak in teh brake booster and it is leaning out the mix to the point is stalls.

MAP or MAF engine intake air sensing?.

Come to think of it, if you have MAF intake sensing and loose intake hosing, the car will probably start and idle great and cut out as soon as you press the accelerator. So check for loose intake piping and vac leaks.
Same effect as an air leak in teh brake vacuum.

Package; try driving it with the gas cap loose. see what happens