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calling all carpenters.. stud walls

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  • 12-03-2006 7:52pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 365 ✭✭


    Guys,

    The upstairs of my house is one large room at present.. No stud walls or floorboards.. just rafters...

    I want to do the stud walls myself.. Any links/info on how to construct them?

    Also is it better to complete the roof insulation & floors prior to doing the stud walls ?


    Jayoooo


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Floor the room with chipboard preferably T+G to reduce squeaking, Glue and screw to the rafters, not forgetting to insulate the floor to reduce sound transmission.
    You will have to work out where the uprights will go from floor to ceiling.
    You will have to work out what insulation you want to use and either make a ventilation gap or leave a gap.
    Slab the ceiling or maybe run T+Gv if you want.
    depending on your rafter centres you may also need to counterbatten the rafters to allow good fixing of slabs.
    I would suggest putting the walls in after the ceiling and floors have been finished.
    Just mark where you want your walls and plumb them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 27,163 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    CJhaughey wrote:
    Glue and screw to the rafters,
    Why the glue?
    That makes it a bitch to take stuff up again...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 84 ✭✭O-Ninio


    Definately no glue, and also I would not recommend putting T&G on the ceiling of a bedroom with a roofspace above it the potential for fire transfer is not even worth thinking about. T&G can be ok on the underside of precast slabs but I would definately slab the ceiling, timber on the ceiling will also darken the room. The chipboard flooring is fine but I think it is more attic orientated (for storage) we always use ply. The sound insulation is of course a good idea.
    Studs are usually 400 c/c, can't remember the noggins. Attach your sole and header plates first. Set out your door areas and then fill in.
    An excellent book that I would recommend you purchase is the Homebond Housebuilders manual (Easons €45 or so). Very well illustrated, displays best practice etc. easy to follow and will be a great source of info for any jobs you do.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Why do you need to take the floor up?
    I glued mine and it is the quietest floor you will never hear ;)
    Mind you the stuff I had was high density,low formaldehyde double T+G.
    I would also recommend using a strip of that PE foam underlay along the head and sole plates to prevent sound/light transmission.
    regarding timbered ceilings darkening a room , it may be true if you leave the timber natural or even stain it but If you paint it white or use a white oil to stop darkening it looks lovely and is actually quite a traditional finish.


  • Registered Users Posts: 27,163 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    CJhaughey wrote:
    Why do you need to take the floor up?
    Sticking in a spot, running a wire,etc.
    Mine is screwed regular old T&G and I dont hear a peep.


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