Smoking Toyota Corolla !

AnnaStezia

Took my aunt's 1990 Toyota Corolla saloon up the mountains yesterday. Looked in rear view mirror and saw small clouds of blue tinged smoke from the exhaust. Any idea what might be going on ?

Car has 25,000 miles up.
Oil level is fine.
No overheating.
No backfiring.
Engine is pulling alright and is not running rough.
Bluish smoke noticeable on accelerating uphill.
Took out spark plugs - no oil seen just the normal dry brown colour.

Could grade of petrol make any difference ?

This car was always run on the higher grade petrol. As posted on this board you cannot get 97 octane petrol easily so she has been using 95 octane for the last year.

Can anyone tell me please if the Toyota Corolla has a control knob somewhere under the bonnet that can be adjusted if you are using a particular octane rating of petrol ? Heard this in passing but know nothing about it.

Thanks for any ideas especially any that might save a trip to the car doctor !!

pontovic

The car may be burning oil aswell as petrol. This could be due a seal in one or more of the cylinders being defective, thus letting oil into the chamber where air and petrol normally should compress and combust ?

The pistons in the car are just above the crankshaft, which is submerged in the oil. If some oil gets up to the cylinders, it can be burned causing the blue smoke. Bring the car for a service ?

crosstownk

Sounds like either valve stem oil seals or worn piston rings/cylinder bore. Most likely to be the valve seals as worn rings/bore at 25k would be very premature.

Drive the car as normal. On a straight clear road drive in 3rd gear at about 3500-4000 rpm. Then take your foot off the throttle, do not clutch and let the car slowly come to a stop. Clutch just before the stall. Rev the engine quickly to 4000 rpm and hold it for a few seconds. If you see even more smoke now the chances are its the valve stem oil seals.

patsyh

burning oil?

Max_Damage

Definetly sounds like the piston rings are gone. To get them replaced, it usually mean the removal of the engine, major work = mojor costs. For a car that old, it really isn't worth it.

My own car burns a significant amount of oil aswell, but once it doesn't fail the NCT over it, I don't care!;)

crosstownk

Max_Damage wrote:

Definetly sounds like the piston rings are gone. To get them replaced, it usually mean the removal of the engine, major work = mojor costs. For a car that old, it really isn't worth it.

I doubt its worn rings at 25k.

bazz26

25,000 miles on a 1990 Corolla. :eek: That is on average about 1500 miles a year. Is this right?

Heavy blue smoke from a petrol engine usually is a sign of burning oil from a knackered piston.

crosstownk

bazz26 wrote:

Heavy blue smoke from a petrol engine usually is a sign of burning oil from a knackered piston.

True, but blue smoke is simply an indication that oil is getting into the combustion chamber. There are other ways that oil can enter the chamber - valve oil seals, faulty cylinder head gasket, internal crack in the cylinder head, faulty crankcase breather system, etc. A turbo/super charged engine adds even more possibilities..............

Best bet is to get it to a mechanic who can investigate it thoroughly for you.

AMurphy

Based on "the Bros" car of similar vintage... it's valve stem seals.
Don't ask me why, but a lot of heat get up to the seals, OR it's the type of rugger compoiund used... but they harden and leak. Going up a hill, may also pool the oil in the head in a manner that get more of hte valve seal submerged, than when on the level.

I have a similar problem with my Camry, rear bank of cyls leak badly when cold and first started. (same seals I'd say)

Not to say that you do not have other problems, but based on history, tht's where I'd start.
Check if you air filter area is wet or dry?.

Victor

AnnaStezia wrote:

Car has 25,000 miles up.

Is that 125,000 miles or 225,000 miles ?

colm_mcm

had an 89 Corolla that did that, changede the rocker cover and all was well

Esel

Is the car designed to run on leaded or unleaded petrol?

Either way, you can get a good octane booster or combo octane booster/lead replacement additive (by Castrol?) which is very good. Know Consort have it if you're in Dublin northside.

Could be a problem with the valve stem oil seals all right.

Have it checked by your local friendly mechanic.

Or Google might throw up some answers.

Henry Ford III

The car has only done a tiny annual mileage. A good long brisk drive may clear up this problem.

SouperComputer

I doubt its worn rings at 25k.

Although I think its a typo, its entirely possible if the car is being revved high while cold and driven on lots of short runs.

The OP

SouperComputer wrote:

Although I think its a typo, its entirely possible if the car is being revved high while cold and driven on lots of short runs.

Agreed - it's most likely 125k, and the meter has reset and doesn't show 6 digits.

Sounds like the piston rings - you're burning oil, mate! "Car maintainence 101".

AnnaStezia

Thanks for the opinions which are much appreciated.

Consultation with the car doctor tomorrow.

NO ! There is no typo. It is actually 25,000 miles up. Only I know the car and my aunt I would not believe it either !!!:)

crosstownk

Definitely valve stem oil seals, I reckon. Lots of short cold runs = internal condensation + (long peiods of time parked in the cold x frozen condensation) = perished rubber!!!!!
Get a price - it's likely to be a few hundred. But then again, it's gotta be worth it for a car with only 25k on the clock!

AnnaStezia

Got Carroll & Kinsella, Deansgrange, to look at it.

They reckon the cause is a valve seal that is gone u/s. They "flushed out" the engine and made sure that the breather pipe was clear.

Advised to run it for another 1000 miles and see what happens. If problem recurs or worsens it is surgery !

Thanks for your thoughts on the problem.

It passed it's NCT to-day so that can't be too bad !!

AMurphy

ther are ways of changing just the valve stem seal without removing the head or dropping the valve into the cylinder.
If the garage suggests head removal, check on teh this option first.

Essentialy, the cylinder is put on TDC of the compression stroke with both valves closed and the crank locked in position. Then the cyclinder is compressed to ~100psi with compressed air.
It is then possible to compress the springs and remove the springs and old seals without removing the valves.
May or may not be an option on this engine, but I'd ask nonetheless.
it's much cheaper also.