How to vent a fuel line?

ambro25

Just had tank filled, but boiler's on lock-out and won't fire up.

I understand I have to vent the fuel line (between tank and boiler), but how do I go about it?

There's only a small brass screwy thing in the house where the fuel line comes in, and nothing 'activable' on the boiler (e.g. handpump, pressure release button, whatnot) that I can see... Tried the brass screwy thing and it's not doing nothing.

Any help would be much appreciated

(Note that I can't get in touch with any of the letting agency, the landlord or the plumber who usually does jobs for them and lives 2 doors away, atm).

towbar

Should be a bolt not an adjuster screw somewhere near where the fuel pipe comes into burner. Unscrew this and run the the pump by pressing the reset letting pump run and repeat until diesel flows at this screw with no air then close the screw and run the pump again should fire. Make sure to use a rag or biscuit tin lid to catch the diesel.

flocker

There's only a small brass screwy thing in the house where the fuel line comes in

This is most likely the fire valve (automatically closes if there is a fire). It has a knurled nut on the top. If this is is free to rise up the thread the valve is closed. Turn it in the opposite direction to open the valve. (Do not over tighten)
Depending on the pump (on the burner) there is an allen key bleed screw but it would be difficult to explain where this is.

At the risk of getting covered in (diesel / Kerosene)you could loosen the flexible hose that goes into the bottom of the pump and wait till the air works it way out. You would need a tray or dish under the hose/pump to collect any drips. There usually isn't much room.

It maybe better to keep an eye on the house and wait for plumber to come home.

ambro25

towbar wrote:

Should be a bolt not an adjuster screw somewhere near where the fuel pipe comes into burner. Unscrew this and run the the pump by pressing the reset letting pump run and repeat until diesel flows at this screw with no air then close the screw and run the pump again should fire. Make sure to use a rag or biscuit tin lid to catch the diesel.

Thx for that.

I've removed the screwed hood over the burner portion (bottom). I can see 3 'devices' which have some sort of screw. The fuel line comes into the burner portion at the bottom, on the left of the unit - burner's on the right with exhaust above it . Facing me and on the left of the unit, above where the line comes into the burner portion, there is firstly a large brass bolt (it really doesn't look like it means to be undone), then above that a darkish-bronzish seating for a small screw with the screw in the middle of it (screw has a flat head), then above that and seated on top (and horizontal relative ot the ground), a brass very-lightly-knurled T-shaped screw/bolt thing (again, I don't think this last one means to be undone, as there is a live + earth molex-looking thing plugged into what this T-shaped screw-bolt thing is screwed on).

So that little screw with the flat head looks like it might be it. Whatta ya think?

flocker wrote:

At the risk of getting covered in (diesel / Kerosene)you could loosen the flexible hose that goes into the bottom of the pump and wait till the air works it way out. You would need a tray or dish under the hose/pump to collect any drips. There usually isn't much room.

I know better than to try that (what with 800 Liters in the tank, I can just imagine trying to put my finger on the hose to close it when that lot tries to come through!).

Thank you both very much for your posts (and yes, I'll probably wait for either the letting agent or the plumber anyways, but still...)

JamesM

ambro25 wrote:

Thx for that.

I've removed the screwed hood over the burner portion (bottom). I can see 3 'devices' which have some sort of screw. The fuel line comes into the burner portion at the bottom, on the left of the unit - burner's on the right with exhaust above it . Facing me and on the left of the unit, above where the line comes into the burner portion, there is firstly a large brass bolt (it really doesn't look like it means to be undone), then above that a darkish-bronzish seating for a small screw with the screw in the middle of it (screw has a flat head), then above that and seated on top (and horizontal relative ot the ground), a brass very-lightly-knurled T-shaped screw/bolt thing (again, I don't think this last one means to be undone, as there is a live + earth molex-looking thing plugged into what this T-shaped screw-bolt thing is screwed on).

So that little screw with the flat head looks like it might be it. Whatta ya think?



I know better than to try that (what with 800 Liters in the tank, I can just imagine trying to put my finger on the hose to close it when that lot tries to come through!).

Thank you both very much for your posts (and yes, I'll probably wait for either the letting agent or the plumber anyways, but still...)

DO NOT turn the screw - it is an adjuster for the oil pressure - you will cause all kinds of problems :eek:

It depends on the make of burner, but you probably loosen the nut under the screw. Is there an allen screw around the corner to the side of the screw and nut ?
What make of burner is it ?
Jim.

flocker

So that little screw with the flat head looks like it might be it. Whatta ya think?

This sounds like the adjuster for setting the oil pressure.

The fuel line comes into the burner portion at the bottom, on the left of the unit - burner's on the right with exhaust above it .

The fan unit is usually on the right and blast tube. The exhaust is via the flue of the boiler itself.

I'll probably wait for either the letting agent or the plumber

Perhaps the safest idea.

ambro25

No allen nut/screw anywhere.

It was the screw (no.6, 'regulator' on drawing attached) as confirmed by a company in Swords whom I can't praise enough for their quick replies to an enquiry "out of the blue".

Marked the initial screw position with Tippex, turned the screw slowly and counted turns from initial position, sure enough air started to bleed (audibly so) until a couple of droplets of fuel appeared. Then I reset exactly at original position, and left boiler to run 12 hours & checking every hour for any leakage (none whatsoever).

No problems since whatsoever, no change in smoke colour, no petrol smell, no change in loudness of boiler firing or frequency of same.

There ya go.

Lex Luthor

You should have searched for previous posts before posting on this one...judging by what some people recommended, you could have been changing settings for no reason.

ambro25

Lex Luthor wrote:

You should have searched for previous posts before posting on this one...judging by what some people recommended, you could have been changing settings for no reason.

i did search, but no results that would help.

i did not [1] change any settings [2] 'for no reason', i [1] identified the right feature to interact with for [2] bleeding the fuel line so that my boiler would restart.

Lex Luthor

ambro25 wrote:

i did search, but no results that would help.

I'm surprised, because we have covered oil burners on here numerous times for various different problems.

flocker

It was the screw (no.6, 'regulator' on drawing attached)

The adjuster for setting the oil pressure. This not an air bleeder.

No allen nut/screw anywhere

On the face of the pump cover to the left of No.7 in your drawing, not one of the 4 screws in the corner. Also mentioned by James M

an allen screw around the corner to the side of the screw

JamesM

flocker wrote:

The adjuster for setting the oil pressure. This not an air bleeder.



On the face of the pump cover to the left of No.7 in your drawing, not one of the 4 screws in the corner. Also mentioned by James M

I agree with Flocker, I am afraid that the advice was not the best - you should never have touched the screw no. 6 - it is for adjusting the oil pressure. ( at least you put it back to the same position) You should have first tried the allen screw, just about where the no. 3 arrow is pointing (although this in not on earlier G3 models). The next best place to bleed the oil pump is the nut that the no.2 arrow is pointing to. That is the point for an oil pressure gauge and air will bubble out if you loosen it. You should not press the reset button when this nut is open as the oil pressure is very high and oil will jet out all over the place.
I have just re-read your earlier post :eek: what do you mean

No problems since whatsoever, no change in smoke colour, no petrol smell, no change in loudness of boiler firing or frequency of same.

You should NOT see any smoke :eek: and it's oil you've got not petrol
If you see any smoke you should get an expert in immediately. The boiler will soot up and cause a lot of damage - not to mention horrible fuel efficiency. I would say it's time for a full service.
Jim.

ambro25

My bad - it's not 'smoke' as such, I was referring to the vapour or well, whatever emissions, that can been seen emanating from the house chimney. I was looking for it going grey or black or... different from what it's always been (not that there's much of it at all anyhow), i.e. white-ish.

Advice noted with thanks. Admittedly, it is an old boiler (and there is no allen nut/screw such as you guys have indicated in your posts) and, at any rate, I'm still going to await word from the letting agency (uncontactable for the last 72 hours :mad: ) and get them to get someone to check it (it's not at my expense anyway).

@ Lex Luthor - no results for 'fuel line' (well, plenty but all either in motors, or unrelated to the problem at hand), no results for 'venting'.

JamesM

ambro25 wrote:

My bad - it's not 'smoke' as such, I was referring to the vapour or well, whatever emissions, that can been seen emanating from the house chimney. I was looking for it going grey or black or... different from what it's always been (not that there's much of it at all anyhow), i.e. white-ish.

Sometimes when you are using kerosene, you will see white condensation when the flue goes into an existing chimney. You should not see anything like darker smoke. Check with the letting agency and see when the boiler was last serviced. I heard recently of tenants claiming money back from a landlord because the boiler had not been serviced for a few years and they claimed that it had been ineficient and cost them money.
Jim.