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saddles and tires and things..

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  • 19-04-2006 9:53am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 113 ✭✭


    i recently bought a bike (a raleigh misty) from a charity shop, i really like the bike, but i'd say it hasn't really been used the last 20 years. it needs new tires, back break pads and the cover on the saddle has come off, so it soaks up the rain.

    would it be easy to come across and old saddle?
    would it be a big mistake to swap my front break pads with my back break pads (since the back ones do still work, they're just a little worn down, and the font ones arent at all).
    does anyone know of places to get this kind of stuff second hand (but legit)? i'm trying to keep the costs as low as possible. i know there used to be a few bike workshops going on few years ago, is anything like that still going?
    is there any reason why i wouldn't be able to handle changing the tries myself? the only complications i can see are with taking the back wheel off and ****ing up the chain thing, but i'm not totally clueless so i should be able to manage it right?

    sorry i know its a lot of questions, but its the first time i've had to fix up a bike...

    thanks loads


    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2054919209


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 5,618 ✭✭✭Civilian_Target


    I dunno how easy it'll be to find a new saddle, ask in a bike shop, but you'll probably have to buy one new becaue they tend to get nicked or broken. It'll probably set you back €25 minimum.

    Don't swap out your front brakes. In urban traffic, unless you're going downhill or it's slippery you should brake lightly with your front brakes first, then apply rear brakes as well. So, you might need new brake pads, but you could just try re-aligning them. Again, because they have a limited lifetime, you'll have problems getting them second hand. At this rate, you might want to consider getting a second bike for spares :)
    Alternatively, re-align the rear brakes after you've changed the back wheel. There'll be two little screws, one at either side, at the bottom of the brakes, tighten or loosen them as appropriate until the brakes are centered, then pull the handle to make sure they both hit the rim of the wheel at the same time.
    Tyres are easily enough changed, if you've got tyre levers. Literally all there is to changing the back wheel is pulling back the gear spring, disconnecting the chain from the rear wheel (once you've unbolted it and unclipped the brakes) and lifting it out. It'll take you a while but it's fairly self-explanatory, just make sure you have the correct spanner and a flatheaded screw driver.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 170 ✭✭godfather69er


    I dunno how easy it'll be to find a new saddle, ask in a bike shop, but you'll probably have to buy one new becaue they tend to get nicked or broken. It'll probably set you back €25 minimum.

    Don't swap out your front brakes. In urban traffic, unless you're going downhill or it's slippery you should brake lightly with your front brakes first, then apply rear brakes as well. So, you might need new brake pads, but you could just try re-aligning them. Again, because they have a limited lifetime, you'll have problems getting them second hand. At this rate, you might want to consider getting a second bike for spares :)
    Alternatively, re-align the rear brakes after you've changed the back wheel. There'll be two little screws, one at either side, at the bottom of the brakes, tighten or loosen them as appropriate until the brakes are centered, then pull the handle to make sure they both hit the rim of the wheel at the same time.
    Tyres are easily enough changed, if you've got tyre levers. Literally all there is to changing the back wheel is pulling back the gear spring, disconnecting the chain from the rear wheel (once you've unbolted it and unclipped the brakes) and lifting it out. It'll take you a while but it's fairly self-explanatory, just make sure you have the correct spanner and a flatheaded screw driver.


    the bike is 20 years old, i might be wrong but you can only adjust v-brakes that way you pointed out????
    and dont use a screwdriver you will damage the rim you should be able to get it off and on with your fingers. when putting it back on start at the vavle and move down on both sides.
    brake pads are not very expensive but i think you should of got a new or decent 2nd hand bike because you may end up spending waay too much on servicing parts such as bottom bracket and cassette which you need special tools for.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 113 ✭✭petek


    thanks for the tips guys.

    the thing with the breaks is that the back ones are worn down, so they look like ..concave now. i tried them while pushing the bike and they still work, they just don't stop as suddenly as they should, so i thought that would be a better thing to have the front breaks be able to do? i dunno, it seemed like a simple solution to me, but i worry in case someones done it before or knows some reason i can't think of not to do it..

    i know i could've/should've got a less banjaxed bike, and that it would've worked out cheaper, but i just really liked this one when i saw it - the frame is light, its been basicly untouched for the last decade or so, and it doens't look like something someone would want to nick (so it'll probably just get its wheels kicked in :rolleyes: ). so i dont really mind that i might have to spend a bit more money on parts - it cost 30 euro in the first place, another 30 or 40 on parts and it would cost the same as most second hand bikes (which i think is kind of a crazy amount) - but the bike crime scene in dublin being what it is, i dont want to invest too much.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 113 ✭✭petek


    oh yeah.. whats "bottom bracket" and "cassette"? things to do with the chain?

    since so many bikes are vandalised and abandoned on the street, it seems like second hand parts should be really easy to get. i know there was an art project on in the project arts centre in temple bar a year or two ago, where the artist collected abandoned vandalised bikes and used the working parts to make new bikes and fix other peoples bikes. does anyone know anything about that or anything similar around at the moment? i dont like having to buy brand new things if theres already working second hand stuff around.. waste not...


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,481 ✭✭✭Morgan


    Have a poke around here for repair help (and the names of various things):
    http://www.parktool.com/repair/

    Replacing the tyres is very straightforward.

    Don't swap the brake pads around. Your front brake is the more powerful so it should have good pads. Just get a new set - they'll only cost a few quid.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 113 ✭✭petek


    Morgan wrote:
    Have a poke around here for repair help (and the names of various things):
    http://www.parktool.com/repair/

    Replacing the tyres is very straightforward.

    Don't swap the brake pads around. Your front brake is the more powerful so it should have good pads. Just get a new set - they'll only cost a few quid.

    thanks for the link, its really helpful, and i'll take everyones advice on the brakes, thanks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,883 ✭✭✭Ghost Rider


    If you're buying a new saddle, don't go for a Specialized Body Geometry. They look pretty comfortable and, it has to be said, they're not bad on the butt cheeks. But the one I got about four months ago has developed a little nick on the side. As a result, water creeps in there every time it rains, which means that whenever I sit on the saddle now, water dribbles out the side and onto my arse.

    I don't mind a bit of ordinary water leaking onto my arse - this is not a country in which to be afraid of such things. But water that's been sitting inside your saddle for a few weeks isn't ordinary, it smells of socks.

    So avoid Specialized Body Geometry saddles, unless you want your pants to smell of socks.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 170 ✭✭godfather69er


    petek wrote:
    thanks for the tips guys.

    the thing with the breaks is that the back ones are worn down, so they look like ..concave now. i tried them while pushing the bike and they still work, they just don't stop as suddenly as they should, so i thought that would be a better thing to have the front breaks be able to do? i dunno, it seemed like a simple solution to me, but i worry in case someones done it before or knows some reason i can't think of not to do it..

    i know i could've/should've got a less banjaxed bike, and that it would've worked out cheaper, but i just really liked this one when i saw it - the frame is light, its been basicly untouched for the last decade or so, and it doens't look like something someone would want to nick (so it'll probably just get its wheels kicked in :rolleyes: ). so i dont really mind that i might have to spend a bit more money on parts - it cost 30 euro in the first place, another 30 or 40 on parts and it would cost the same as most second hand bikes (which i think is kind of a crazy amount) - but the bike crime scene in dublin being what it is, i dont want to invest too much.

    ehh it depends on where you leave it, what locks you use etc. i work in a bike shop, i sell people expenive bikes and they turn to me and say i dont want to spend over e20 on a lock:confused:
    strange to say the least.
    im not bragging but my bike is e700 new and it hasnt been touched, it is always spotless as it is stripped cleaned and greased at least 1ce every 2months, i use it everyday and to go on trails with it so it takes a beating.
    i was at the garda auction there a month ago and ALL the bikes were **** but i suppose thats the ones that were recovered.:)
    get a kryptonite lock or a magnum for about e40 and you get a insurance of up to e1200 if the bike is stolen.
    oh ye you can usually bend the pads back into shape with a pliers,if you are really stuck


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 113 ✭✭petek


    ehh it depends on where you leave it, what locks you use etc. i work in a bike shop, i sell people expenive bikes and they turn to me and say i dont want to spend over e20 on a lock:confused:
    strange to say the least.
    im not bragging but my bike is e700 new and it hasnt been touched, it is always spotless as it is stripped cleaned and greased at least 1ce every 2months, i use it everyday and to go on trails with it so it takes a beating.
    i was at the garda auction there a month ago and ALL the bikes were **** but i suppose thats the ones that were recovered.:)
    get a kryptonite lock or a magnum for about e40 and you get a insurance of up to e1200 if the bike is stolen.
    oh ye you can usually bend the pads back into shape with a pliers,if you are really stuck

    nah, its the rubber part of the pads thts worn down, so like the others said i should probably just replace them.

    could u explain the insurance thing a little more to me? has it got to do with the lock? or do u just mean in general if i insured my bike i could get up to e1200 back if it was stolen? how much does insurance usually cost?

    although i have to admit, i was shocked when i found out how much bike locks cost here. when i had a bike in europe i just used a bit of chain and a padlock from a hardware shop, wish things could be that simple here..


  • Registered Users Posts: 146 ✭✭ciaranr


    Get a good lock that is easy to store on your bike - save you endless trouble especially if you will be making short trips. Better to buy one expensive lock now than two cheap locks and a replacement bicycle, especially with our current inflation rates.

    Also Aldi had a good deal on saddles and bits and pieces (pumps, drinks bottles etc.) on a few weeks ago, the store near me (Westside, Galway) still has a lot of stuff left if you want to trick your bike out el cheapo. Saddles E10 etc. Good enough, I got one to replace my knackered old saddle.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,481 ✭✭✭Morgan


    So avoid Specialized Body Geometry saddles, unless you want your pants to smell of socks.

    :confused:
    Eh.....just put a plastic bag over the saddle if you're leaving the bike in the rain. They only cost 15c.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,883 ✭✭✭Ghost Rider


    Of course, but if you spend €40 on a saddle you shouldn't need to. That's why I'm warning the original poster.
    Morgan wrote:
    :confused:
    Eh.....just put a plastic bag over the saddle if you're leaving the bike in the rain. They only cost 15c.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 170 ✭✭godfather69er


    petek wrote:
    nah, its the rubber part of the pads thts worn down, so like the others said i should probably just replace them.

    could u explain the insurance thing a little more to me? has it got to do with the lock? or do u just mean in general if i insured my bike i could get up to e1200 back if it was stolen? how much does insurance usually cost?

    although i have to admit, i was shocked when i found out how much bike locks cost here. when i had a bike in europe i just used a bit of chain and a padlock from a hardware shop, wish things could be that simple here..


    insurance is a waste of time in this country, dont bother coz they wont pay out when you claim,its only good if you have a really expensive bike.

    the company who manufactures the locks have a guarantee of up to e1200 if your bike is stolen, they pay the value of the bike in other words.

    when you lock the bike just make sure its around the frame NOT handle bars, brake cables,rims or saddle. common sense but i have seen some idiots with really heavy locks either wrapping it around a removable part of bike or to a crappy post, there is a thread here somewhere with some rally funny pics of this idiocy


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