Plumbing Questions

karltimber

Hi,

I have attached a sketch of the plumbing/heating part of a new ext.
I have a few questions before I start and hopefully ye will have some good sugestions and advice.

I propose to have 3/4" copper coming out of the boiler in the corner of the utility room and convert to qualpex. One set (flow & return) will go straight to the emmersion tank and the other set going to the rads.
Point A is where all the house connections are made to d/s and upstairs.

Q - I have never worked with soldered copper so am using qualpex with compression fittings --is there a difference b/t qualpex and qualpex barrier pipe ? and should I insulate them under concrete.

Q - Will I use 3/4" or 1/2" -to the rads at point B (6m) & C (4m) ?.

Q - Submerged gas pipe.(I will not be making connections ) --what size of insulated copper do I need to run (without joints) for 1. a gas cooker 2. a gas waterford stanley type stove at D and 3. from the meter box to the boiler (this will be an outside line -submerged).

Q - Can I use qualpex for to continue the mains supply or does that need to be 1/2 or 3/4" hydardar (spelling !!!) ?

Thanks in advance for your comments.
K.

Viking House

I fitted a Stanley before and it needed 1 inch gas pipe, I can't see your sketch so I'm not sure if its a problem.

Qualplex is fine for the mains water.

I would insulate under concrete.

I always go 3/4 until the last two radiators and at that point I use a 1/2 1/2 3/4 fitting going to the last two radiators.

1/2 inch gas pipe is usually enough for a cooker.

If you have to make any joints under ground, buy a barometer and test the pipes before you cover them.

Gas soldering you can learn just follow these steps, clean the pipe with steel wool, dip it in flux and heat until you see the inside solder coming out. Put another layer of solder outside, test with a barometer to make sure it holds pressure for 1/2 hour, thats it.

FrankGrimes

Viking House wrote:

If you have to make any joints under ground, buy a barometer and test the pipes before you cover them.

Gas soldering you can learn just follow these steps, clean the pipe with steel wool, dip it in flux and heat until you see the inside solder coming out. Put another layer of solder outside, test with a barometer to make sure it holds pressure for 1/2 hour, thats it.

Hey Viking House - can you explain a bit more how to use the barometer to pressure test the joints, would be useful trick to know?

I need to run a gas pipe out the back of the utility room, into the ground (to be covered in concrete), then into the new kitchen in the extension on the side of the house. There's no way I'll attempt to join to a live gas feed (i.e. I don't know how to kill supply and drain it), but if its as easy as you say I'd be on for running the pipes back from the kitchen to utility and then get a plumber I know to test it when he's making the final connection between my pipes and existing pipes.

Like karl I'm competent with compression fittings but haven't soldered before. I have a copper pipe cutter, what other tools and materials would I need (assuming I'd just use junction fittings as opposed to pipe bending) and how much do these cost (i.e. a decent solderer?)? Might work out something on splitting cost with karl.

Thanks

Viking House

You need to buy the following items from Heatmerchants or similar shop.

Gas can and gun about €120 (also handy for lighting the BBQ)

Soldering wire €5

Tub of flux €10

Roll of steel wool €15
Clean the pipe well with the steel wool, dip it in the flux, push the pipe into the fitting, heat with the blow torch until the solder inside the fitting starts to bubble, put more solder on the outside.

Barometer €75
Half fill the barometer with water, block off one end, connect the barometer and hand pump to the pipe, close the other end of the pipe, pressurise the pipe, if it holds the pressure for 1/2 hour you are fine.
Use washing-up liquid and water to find a leak

Turn off the gas at the meter and open the pipe, it will drain itself.
Buy a few fittings and practice, make a loop with one opening, pressurise it with the barometer and practise.

I am not responsible for your eyebrows. Turn off the gas before you start and open all the windows.

www.viking-house.net

karltimber

Thats great info Viking - but may still go down the raod of qual pex as it might be this thurs/friday that I need to do the work.

Ref Gas pipe.
I need to put some insulated copper in one run under the floor also.
From the area where the boiler is to a cooker and to a waterford stanley stove.
Do you know what size of insulated copper should be used for these two appliances. and any tips on doing this.

Like Frank - I will let the plummer make the final connections. but don't want to bury a smaller than needed pipe in concrete.

thx

Viking House

I fitted a Stanley before and it needed 1 inch gas pipe,
Give them a ring and ask them, I don't know what model you are using.
Bord Gais had to increase the feed into the house because it was too small.
Concrete eats copper so make sure there are no cuts in the plastic cover.