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Gun Care

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  • 14-06-2006 11:54am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 11,393 ✭✭✭✭


    OK on the topic of cleaning guns, I bought an Extrema semi auto shotgun the other day and took it clay shooting two nights in a row and while cleaning noticed a gun powder and oil gloop starting to lodge in places i couldn't reach when cleaning, small small amounts but over time it may get worse.

    Is there any sort of solvent i could use, I am hoping to hear from chopperdog as he seems to be the semi auto expert on here. I am afraid that if i spray/immerse the action in this sort of chemical I will damage the gun but i want to get the gunk out, will a tooth brush and some elbow greese do the job.


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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,057 ✭✭✭civdef


    WD40 is as good as any, the little straw thingy on the nozzle is great for awkward places.

    A toothbrush should be a standard feature of pretty much any decent cleaning set-up you purt together.


  • Registered Users Posts: 652 ✭✭✭Hezz700


    I have Urika AL391 black syn for about 2 yrs! what i do is spray in some teflon lube and then i use those little cotton buds on sticks to get it all out.
    works like a charm.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Umiq88


    @Hezz700

    Yeah the bolt is really easy to disassemble but thats not the whole problem

    My CZ is pretty old as well made in '99 and i bought it last year and had the same problem

    to dissassemble the bolt remove it from the gun then decock the firing pin (hold bolt body and close as if arming if it was in the gun) when this is dont press in the blued centre part at the very rear of the gun then pull the safety switch out of the bolt and thats it. Theres only about 4 pieces so no problem with not putting it back together to clean it i just ran a very thin bit of cloth through it and cleaned down everything else with a bit of oil.

    Cotton buds work great for hard to reach places

    what your problem is because ive experienced the same thing is dirt/grit in the barrel face where the extractors sit you should be able to find what im talking about easy enough they're two small "dents" either side of the hole in the barrel you want to clean these out as best you can and clean the front of the bolt face and in and behind the extractors and around the barrel face and that should fix it ive done that once since ive bought the gun 1 year now i think and its solved the prob

    also cleaning your rimfire the whole time isnt the best of ideas no problem with oiling down the outside to keep it shiny but for the barrel clean it as little as possible i use a pull through every 20-30 shots with a patch on the end first one has a bit of oil then keep using clean patchs till they come out clean never use a bronze brush unless its really fouled up as this will do more harm than good in a rimfire. The bullets are mostly lead and its easy to clean the bores on a centrefire gun however its different.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,393 ✭✭✭✭Vegeta


    Hezz700 wrote:
    I have Urika AL391 black syn for about 2 yrs! what i do is spray in some teflon lube and then i use those little cotton buds on sticks to get it all out.
    works like a charm.

    Cool i'll give that a go so cos there are some knooks and crannies that have the potential to collect a lot of gloop if not looked after.

    I thought wd40 was too thick to use on guns as the gun powder residue just sticks to it like glue. I have no prob using wd40 on the externals of the gun but i might try and get some that teflon lube for hte internals, any particualr brand you use Hezz


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Umiq88


    From what people have told me wd-40 is not good for a gun to much water based or something anyway normal 3-1 oil is grand for the outside is use some gun oil that i bought off ebay its all the same though


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,057 ✭✭✭civdef


    Never had any problems using WD40 on any of my guns (including a 391). It seems a fair bit thinner than most of the other gun-oils I've used.
    also cleaning your rimfire the whole time isnt the best of ideas no problem with oiling down the outside to keep it shiny but for the barrel clean it as little as possible i use a pull through every 20-30 shots with a patch on the end first one has a bit of oil then keep using clean patchs till they come out clean never use a bronze brush unless its really fouled up as this will do more harm than good in a rimfire.

    Cleaning the barrel every 20-30 shots is extremely often by rimfire standards! Ecen every 200-300 shots would be frequent for a rimfire (and unnecessary, in my book)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Umiq88


    Yeah i know but its a hunting gun i would take a bit of time to put that amount of rounds through and i dont like it sitting with all the gunk in it for over a month if i was out shooting targets plinking i might go through 50-100 and id clean it

    dont even think ive put 1000 rounds through this gun and ive had it a year but am pretty close to it id say


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,783 ✭✭✭maglite


    dads rimfire geta clean after ever shot or two over the last 30 years has done it no prob


  • Registered Users Posts: 652 ✭✭✭Hezz700


    Vegeta wrote:
    Cool i'll give that a go so cos there are some knooks and crannies that have the potential to collect a lot of gloop if not looked after.

    I thought wd40 was too thick to use on guns as the gun powder residue just sticks to it like glue. I have no prob using wd40 on the externals of the gun but i might try and get some that teflon lube for hte internals, any particualr brand you use Hezz

    I use stuff called Lube 2000, Branded by Wurth. it is very light and works well for me


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 397 ✭✭Chopperdog


    I find no problem with WD-40 for the internals of the gun, and its little nozzle is often used to 'blast' off some problematic hard to get at bits of krud.
    One word of warning is to keep oils away from the guns woodwork as excessive exposure can lead to swelling of the timber, additionally keep WD-40 away from any blued or blackened areas as it will act as a solvent to blueing/blaching.

    When it comes to the maintenance of the semi I prefer to run them lean (not dry) of oil. Ultimately excess oil will trap and hold unburnt powder and carbon.
    Also it can also cause a nasty splurge of oil and oil mist out of the ejection port on firing the first few shots after cleaning, (not nice when you get it in the face!).
    For cleaning I will strip her down and remove the breech block, slide and trigger mechanism and give everything a gook soak with Browning Legia oil and leave to penetrate for 15 mins.
    I then simply blow all residual oil and dissolved dirt away with a high pressure airline. (Do this in an area where you wont actually be blowing dirt into
    the mechanism. Inspect, and repeat if required. Then give her a gently wipe and very light oiling before you put her away.
    If you never let your gun get too fouled up this will be sufficient cleaning to keep her right.
    Friends didnt believe me at first and now they have converted to it.
    The traditionalists are probably pulling their hair out at the thought of this,
    Try it!
    As for the barrel, elbow grease & bore snakes AND make sure you keep the exhausts ports drilled in the barrel leading to the pistol perfectly clean & clear.
    Pipecleaners & solvent are the best job for that. Build up of krud in these ports and on the piston rod have to be the cause of at least 75% of ejection failures in semi automatic shotguns. Hope this helps.:)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,783 ✭✭✭maglite


    instead of an air line you can buy bottles like the wd40 one with just air


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,057 ✭✭✭civdef


    additionally keep WD-40 away from any blued or blackened areas as it will act as a solvent to blueing/blaching.

    I'd heard that too, but according to the WD40 people, it's actually used in the blueing process and totally harmful. I've got plenty of it on barrels over the years, with no obvious effects.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,679 Mod ✭✭✭✭Rew


    While on the subject of gun care, I want a cheap hard case. Not for flying just for general car transport. Preferably somthing i can replace the foam in with a custom cut job. Anyone any recomendations, suppliers and prices?


  • Registered Users Posts: 652 ✭✭✭Hezz700


    Rew wrote:
    While on the subject of gun care, I want a cheap hard case. Not for flying just for general car transport. Preferably somthing i can replace the foam in with a custom cut job. Anyone any recomendations, suppliers and prices?

    The last time i was in Griffith & Hawe's they had a stack of hard cases in a corner ( and i don't mean the locals ) dunno how much though but it might be worth checking out!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,393 ✭✭✭✭Vegeta


    Rew wrote:
    While on the subject of gun care, I want a cheap hard case. Not for flying just for general car transport. Preferably somthing i can replace the foam in with a custom cut job. Anyone any recomendations, suppliers and prices?

    to be honest ebay is savage for this sort of stuff


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,679 Mod ✭✭✭✭Rew


    Was in there a few weeks back and there were none :(


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    Rew wrote:
    While on the subject of gun care, I want a cheap hard case. Not for flying just for general car transport. Preferably somthing i can replace the foam in with a custom cut job. Anyone any recomendations, suppliers and prices?

    I got one today Rew, in Duffys in Galway city. I think it was 39.99, it'ss a 1531 PRO-Max single scoped rifle case, I'll upload a couple of pics in a few minutes.

    John

    Image000.jpg

    Image001.jpg


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,679 Mod ✭✭✭✭Rew


    Looks perfect. Id probaly go double and carve out places to hold accessories.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,679 Mod ✭✭✭✭Rew




  • Registered Users Posts: 11,393 ✭✭✭✭Vegeta


    Rew wrote:

    forget it, the shipping is a joke


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    Rew wrote:
    Looks perfect. Id probaly go double and carve out places to hold accessories.

    From their booklet the double case measures 53.875 inches long, 19 inches wide, and 5.625 inches high (not that anyone was measuring carefully :D ). It's got straps to tie down the rifles inside then as well. Hope that lot helps.

    John


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,679 Mod ✭✭✭✭Rew


    Thats great info, cheers. Now to get one on the east coast....


  • Registered Users Posts: 246 ✭✭TomBeckett


    civdef wrote:
    Never had any problems using WD40 on any of my guns (including a 391). It seems a fair bit thinner than most of the other gun-oils I've used.



    Cleaning the barrel every 20-30 shots is extremely often by rimfire standards! Ecen every 200-300 shots would be frequent for a rimfire (and unnecessary, in my book)

    I have used wd-40 3n1 oil sprays whatever over the years and i have found them to be messy more so on a semi using 3n1 oil first shot after cleaning and you get a shot of oil in the face..

    For cleaning the semi auto i use Brake Cleaner you can buy it in most auto factors it has a very powerfull spray that is great for getting into all those nukes and cranneys of the action and best of all it evaporates dry in a about 2 mins.

    For the rifles i use Bardahl Silicone Spray Lube it is a very good lubricate and is way cleaner than oil and leaves a nice shiney film on the barrell it is also an excellent waterproofer that when you put it on it stays on far longer than oil. you can also get this is most autofactors €10.50.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Umiq88


    http://cgi.ebay.ie/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7249296538&sspagename=ADME:L:RTQ::1

    £12 for postage its still a bit price thought but not to bad


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,843 ✭✭✭Clare gunner


    you can also do a total strip down and dunk all METAL parts in bog std petrol.
    Clean everything down with a tooth brush,and next time you at the dentist ask him for a couple of used dental picks,they are great for getting out all the crud from awkward places.Have done this with my remmy 1100 numerous times.Just dont smoke while you do this job:eek:
    The petrol dries off quickly in air,then lightly oil all parts.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,335 ✭✭✭newby.204


    From what people have told me wd-40 is not good for a gun to much water based or something anyway normal 3-1 oil is grand for the outside is use some gun oil that i bought off ebay its all the same though


    noting to do with you psitta, just couldn find another wd-40 post.

    We use wd-40 on steyrs, granted the have synthetic bodies, but hasn done the barrels any harm or the gas regulator etc.

    Also anyone worth their salt will have a can for when the gun jams, clogs giv eit a lash of wd-40 and it WILL keep goin. Granted these are military rifles but its just a trick to keep em goin you know


    Ive also seen some other sketchy stuff for cleaning heavily baked on carbon, but cant say obviously!!!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Umiq88


    i just thought for some reason that wd-40 was not the stuff to be using on guns obviously im wrong from the amount of posts


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 801 ✭✭✭jaycee


    WD-40 ..
    Great for cleaning etc...

    Here are a few suggestions on it's use..

    http://www.twbc.org/wd40.htm


    I've never considered it a lubricant really.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,393 ✭✭✭✭Vegeta


    i just thought for some reason that wd-40 was not the stuff to be using on guns obviously im wrong from the amount of posts

    I have found no problem with wd-40 on the externals of guns but I'd rather use something a little thinner and finer on the innerds of my semi as carbon and other gunk are less likely to form such a big lump of crud


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  • Registered Users Posts: 113 ✭✭de_shadow


    jaycee wrote:
    WD-40 ..
    Great for cleaning etc...

    Here are a few suggestions on it's use..

    http://www.twbc.org/wd40.htm


    I've never considered it a lubricant really.

    Keeps missile silo doors swinging freely :eek:

    if its good enough for these its good enough for me:D


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