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Whining sound from shower...now no hot water

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  • 01-07-2006 7:10pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭


    was using the trusty ten yr old Triton T80i this morning when after 1 min, it started whining for a min or so, then the water went cold. Temp setting up to the max, still no hot water. Still not working 12hrs later.

    Sounds like heater is gone...can it be replaced separately or does the whole unit just get replaced or would it be more cost effective just to replace the whole thing anyway?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,332 ✭✭✭311


    You'd be better to replace it ,but also check there is no dirt in the pipe or pressure problems.Any work going on in the area??

    Brian


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    I took my T90i apart last week as it had loads of dirt in it - plastic shavings from a recently fitted attic tank. I'd lots of hassle getting it back together and ended up with 3 other leaks that took about 2 more hours to fix!!! Tread carefully if you do decide to take it apart. I was blessed as I'd spare shower with a fried element so I was able to 'mess' with it in order to figure out how the damn thing works.

    It could be that the pump motor is gone - but this would have had a noticeable difference in pressure at the shower head. It could be the elemnt also - if it is then just replace it as Brain said.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2 Electric_Al


    I assume the shower is being fed from your water tank?...if your tank had dried out due to work in the area as outlined in previous replies, often you will find either the overtemperature switch has tripped (it's quite visible inside, although you do have to take the cover off) or the line gets airlocked when supply returns in which case you normally have the whining sound and no water. But as you say you have cold water I'd opt for the temperature switch initially, failing that the element. A simple continuity check of the element will give you a rough idea of the state of it.i.e Open circuit- bin it, if the element was shorting to earth you supply would have tripped, unless it was after the element resistance...anyway away from the point.)
    If the line is airlocked, I find a quick remedy is to take off the showerhead, hold your thumb over the hose with the shower on, let the shower build up a bit of pressure and release your thumb and repeat if necessary. If you do take the cover off the shower isolate the electricity , not just with your pull cord, but using it's MCB. ...a bit of a ramble but hope it's of some help.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    its direct cold water supply from the mains, so no pump, but I'm assuming they still have to have an overtemp switch....I'll check that out later.

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 552 ✭✭✭De_man


    had the exact same problem b4, turn off the mains electricity, remove
    cover, on the lower left handside you've got a brass nut, remove anticlockwise, remove wire mesh cylinder and clean.

    That should do the trick, (the whining noise is due to the low pressure)

    let us know how you get on



    a pint of plain is yer only man


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    De_man wrote:
    had the exact same problem b4, turn off the mains electricity, remove
    cover, on the lower left handside you've got a brass nut, remove anticlockwise, remove wire mesh cylinder and clean.

    That should do the trick, (the whining noise is due to the low pressure)

    let us know how you get on



    a pint of plain is yer only man
    ok, I'll give it a go


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    ok, opened it up...this is what it looks like inside

    http://www.showerdoc.co.uk/shower-spares/triton/t80i.html

    Checked across the thermal cut-out (#6) and I have a short circuit so that's working.

    I can only assume that the can assembly (heater element) part #2 is gone?

    I'd say replacing the whole unit at this stage would be more cost effective that just the element, unless the elemnt was less than half the price of the whole unit.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,332 ✭✭✭311


    I don't ever repair showers ,only ever replace them ,but the only time I've ever had to fix one it was a MiRA ,modern plant supply mira shower parts and are very helpful.
    I know triton are probably the best ,but there agent is out in maynooth.
    Just thought I'd share it with you ,I always think helpful service is worth a lot.

    Brian.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    just wondering, would a modern Triton T80i be a direct swap for a 10yr old one? Just thinking of if I was to replace it, that I wouldn't have to mess around with moving pipework, etc?


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    no parts available for the T80i so the direct replacement is the T80xr
    http://www.tritonshowers.co.uk/wps/wcm/connect/TritonShowers/Internet/Products/TritonShowers/Electric/T80xr/

    any idea what power rating one I need?

    is it just a simple calculation of P=VxI ?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    Lex Luthor wrote:
    no parts available for the T80i so the direct replacement is the T80xr
    http://www.tritonshowers.co.uk/wps/wcm/connect/TritonShowers/Internet/Products/TritonShowers/Electric/T80xr/

    any idea what power rating one I need?

    is it just a simple calculation of P=VxI ?
    just was told that I get the 7.5kW unit as I have a 32A MCB


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,003 ✭✭✭✭The Muppet


    Can't help with your problem but if you are going to replace it Atlantic Homecare in Airside swords have t80's on sale for €180 reduced from €222. It's the 8.5 KW , Changing an MCB is easy enough if you need the higher rating provided the cable is up to it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    got a Triton T80xr in Woodies yesterday for €191 and with my 10% discount that my work has with woodies, it came in at 172. Fitted and working .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,332 ✭✭✭311


    Nice one lex ,have a nice time :D


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