Is this possible?.

esquier

Hi,
I`m building a kitchen for myself on the cheap and I was thinking
of using solid or semi-solid flooring as a worktop, perhaps glued on to
1" MDF. I`d appreciate any input as to whether this is feasible or any tips.


Cheers.

Avns1s

IMO it would be cheaper, better and a lot less hassle just to buy a length of worktop.

esquier

Yeah, I know, it`s just that I`d prefer solid wood as opposed standard
w/top and solid wood top works out around €800 a length, also, making
it myself means I`m not restricted to standard sizes.

The Hill Billy

You may run into hygiene issues with food/germs/dirt getting caught between the timbers.

Cmar-Ireland

Hill Billy wrote:

You may run into hygiene issues with food/germs/dirt getting caught between the timbers.

Maybe if it's sealed properly, it would be hygienic, and if it gets stained it would be sanded out and re-sealed?

Just The One

esquier wrote:

Hi,
I`m building a kitchen for myself on the cheap and I was thinking
of using solid or semi-solid flooring as a worktop, perhaps glued on to
1" MDF. I`d appreciate any input as to whether this is feasible or any tips.


Cheers.

about €60 for an 8ft length of counter top in B&Q

esquier

Thanks for the input, what I really want to know if it`s possible
to do it this way and possible pitfalls, ie. buckling, etc.

Hotwheels

It could be done, but I would use 3/4" water proof ply, the biggest problem is how to finish the edge? so that you get a water proof seal, one way is to recess the ply letting the timber out about 50mm over your unit, the edge could then be routed to a bullnose to finish. You would still have to fit a cover slip above the doors to hide the Ply....
Another way is, keep the ply flush and fit a cover slip over the timber, but its hard to get a proper seal/finish with a slip...


It would be better to use (imo) a narrow board gluing and screwing them in place from the back. A sash clamp can be used to clamp the boards in place to ensure a tight joint...
Regardless of the finish you would have to apply at number of coats of lacquer, preferably using a spray gun to maximise penetration into the timber...And how you joint it in the corners where the top changes direction is another consideration... To 45 Or Not to 45 that is the question...
Good luck with the project....

niallb

A friend of mine did a whole kitchen using railway sleepers.
Extremely solid and stripped and sealed up beautifully.
He inset a gas hob, and put an electric oven underneath.
One of the best kitchens I've ever seen.

They're often oak, and cost about 20-30 euro apiece.
You'll find them regularly in the Buy and Sell.

Just a suggestion,
NiallB

esquier

Thanks, lads, got something to work with now, w/p ply is good, If it could
be got in 1" better still. The sleepers are interesting, Niallb, If you could
post a pic ?. One of the reasons I`m doing it this way is that I`m building
an island unit as well and it seems one has to buy full lengths of worktop
these days so a lot of waste.

niallb

Afraid I can't post a pic.
He's since sold the house.

I'll ask him if he has any pictures of the kitchen.
I'd be amazed if he doesn't :-)

NiallB

Viking House

If you buy dry 2 x 9-10 inch boards that are good, straight and uniform and you use a good poleurethene glue you should get on fine. Put every second board up and down.
Burn the top of the worktop with a gas torch to seal it and sand it off later, you could also use Yacht varnish also but it leaves it a bit shiny.
I put water drainage flutes in mine with a router and a plane.