Case Painting, how hard is it?

jozi

I'm looking to get a Antec Solo case which is black (like the sonata) with a grey aluminium front bezel. Problem is im having trouble finding a reatail that has this case allong with a few other parts i need.
What they all do have is the Antec P150 which is exactly the same case (bar stealth drives and this has a psu) only comes in what looks like a pearl kind of white (apple style) which im not fond of. I might get the P150 and sell the psu, not much in price difference between both, as long as painting the case isnt to much of a hard thing todo. I'll prob just go for all black with silver bezel like the Solo model. As a added bonus i get stealth drives to.

So how hard/easy is it to paint a case well and not have paint chipping of after a month and a few lan parties?

Jozi

po0k

Get a carrier/cover/padding for your case if you're going to lans.

I've painted a few cases in my time, gotten good quality results, will be spraying another 2 cases over the next month or so.

Things to remember are to buy quality stuff, do a good bit of research ie.don't just follow the first guide you come across - read a few, compare methods, you can pickup extra tricks along the way, and finally TAKE YORE TIME!

Pop into a motorparts store - they should have a nice range of spraypaints.

Note About Undercoat/Primer: Metal surfaces: Acrylic undercoat is fine. Plastic surfaces: Bumper primer.
Always read the directions, try not to mix paint manufacturers/types.

You'll need to sand down and clean the surface to be painted.
Mask off the areas you don't want paint on (masking tape or contact sheets)
Apply 1-3 thin steady coats of Undercoat - level, horizontal passes, from off one side across to the other, don't stop while over the surface, spray into thin air and either side so you don't end up with paint collecting on the sides where you paused to change direction. When you first press the nozzle on each application, do so into thin air aswell to avoid splashes of paint from the nozzle landing on your surface.
Allow each coat to dry throughly between applications.
Maybe clean up/rub down with some light very find sand/emery paper.
Apply thin, steady coats of your topcoat, build up the colour gradually - don't just fling a load of paint at it and hope it sticks. Maybe gently sand/smooth down each coat - if you want.

After that, and when you're happy with the entire paintjob, apply laquer/clearcoat varnish to seal it.
Be careful with this stuff, don't let it run. Definately do some test sprays to get a feel for the nozzle and flow rate.
After that apply rubbin compound. Lots of it - slowly. This is the most time-consuming stage of the process and requires elbow grease or a buffer/polisher powertool.

This method is basically the same as spraying and waxing a car.

That's enough to get you started.

jozi

Thanks for the great reply syxpak.

Whats this rubbing compound you mention?

Would i have to strip the whole case from paint or will a good sanding be enough?

No i just need to find out how easy/hard it is to dismantle a Antec P150 case so i can paint as individual parts

Thanks,
Brendan

po0k

If the case has external panels which are rivetted on, you can drill them and replace them later.
A manual/mechanical rivet gun should be about 20eur.

Rubbing compound can be found in the Motor store. The stuff I got was Simoniz brand, wide shallow tin of reddy-brown stuff, the consistency of shoe polish.
It literally is just special polish. Ask at the counter, they're direct you.

As for removing the paint, grab someone's belt sander or use sanding blocks (like washing up foam sponges but coated in sand/grit).
The paint on the case is probably powder coat, which can be tough to remove by hand.
Sand it as well as you can, try and get rid of the paint, but remember that you are creating the surface to which the undercoat will stick to. It's like the foundation for a house. A patchy rough surface will show through in the final work.
Sand it down using 200 or 400-grit at first, and move up to high grit sandpaper to fine it down. 800-grit is probably high enough, 1200 would be really fine, and might actually inhibit the paint making good porous contact.
Judge for yourself.

Oh, and I forgot to add in the previous post: do a proper test-run on a spare case/bit of metal/whatever, practice each and every step, treat it as though it were a 400eur Lian-Li case.

Time spent on the preparation and execution is proportional to quality of end result.

po0k

Oh, and lastly, a good environment is key.
No dust blowing around, plenty of ventilation, not too humid or damp etc.
Good (read:flood) lighting will help too.

awhir

skypax you write to much....................................

po0k

PogMoThoin

i'd prob get banned for postin somethin like that :rolleyes:

Drapper

report to a mod! lol

jozi

And the thread was going so well untill that post :eek:

Thanks for the tips anyway, much help i think

po0k

It's on-topic....kind-of.

Was a better alternative to my initial reaction to awhir's post.