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Brake pad's, easy to replace?

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  • 02-08-2006 7:42pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,479 ✭✭✭


    Evening motorheads,

    The the car is making a few grinding noises when i brake not all the time tho they just squeak all the other times i brake, they probably need to be changed, just wondering from your experences would they be a DIY job or bring it to a mecanic?

    Car is a Seat Arosa 1.0Mpi 1998,


    Thanks -VB-


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 7,660 ✭✭✭maidhc


    Easy job.

    Two bolts normally have to be loosened and the caliper comes off. Then you have to push back the piston and slot in the new pads.

    Don't let the caliper dangle by the brake hose.

    Some people recommend you get the discs reground/replaced when you do the pads. I have never got discs reground, never had reason yet to replace them either.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    It's a DIY job - but only if you know what your doing. You may need new discs if the grinding has been going on for some time now - the metal backing of the pads may have damaged the discs. Also check to see if the disc has a substantial lip which will mean they need replacing.

    There is a possibility that you may need a tool to wind back the caliper piston - I'm not sure - maybe someone else can clarify this.

    Remember that your brakes will not reach full efficiency for up to 200 miles so drive very carefully after you fit them.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,479 ✭✭✭Volvoboy


    Then you have to push back the piston and slot in the new pads.
    :confused:


    not a breeze what that means:o


    Gotten as far as taking off the brake caliper.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 602 ✭✭✭IrishRover


    Volvoboy wrote:
    :confused:


    not a breeze what that means:o


    Gotten as far as taking off the brake caliper.

    You wind the pistons clockwise to "push" them back into the caliper. Although this can be easier said than done, as often times they can be seized in place.

    Sometimes it's possible to use a flat edge of a chisel or large screwdriver to wind the pistons back in the calipers, but you can end up damaging them. There are tools, like the one here: http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/s.nl/it.A/id.12584/.f?sc=9 that come as a sort of assorted "kit" for various models of cars. It would be great if this was a standard, like a lot of other things would be great on cars if there was just one standard agreed upon.

    Anyway, not sure I would say this is an easy job as such, as there's always something that doesn't want to play ball, like bolts shearing or whatnot (I suppose like in any job though). But of course if you do get it wrong there's the obvious safety issue here.

    About winding the pistons back in, some ABS systems don't like the brake fluid to be forced back up the system so it is better to open the bleed nipple instead.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    IrishRover wrote:

    About winding the pistons back in, some ABS systems don't like the brake fluid to be forced back up the system so it is better to open the bleed nipple instead.
    There's a chance that a 1998 Arosa won't have ABS. If your not sure what you're doing then I wouldn't mess with bleed nipples and run the risk of introducing air into the system which could result in brake failure!!!!!!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,660 ✭✭✭maidhc


    IrishRover wrote:
    You wind the pistons clockwise to "push" them back into the caliper. Although this can be easier said than done, as often times they can be seized in place.

    Never heard of winding them back in. Always just pushed them in with a bit of wood and my bare hands.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,479 ✭✭✭Volvoboy


    Thanks for the advice lads!!



    Alot more to brakes than i had realised, don't really want to mess around with somthing that stops the car

    thanks anyways.




    *runs to quickfit*


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,237 ✭✭✭AMurphy


    maidhc wrote:
    Never heard of winding them back in. Always just pushed them in with a bit of wood and my bare hands.

    Some rear disks with a handbrake combination have piston adjusters that have to be wound back in, that's the only place twisting is needed, and then it is the adjuster, not the piston itself. Does not apply in this case.
    see; http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=399

    You can use anything you feel like using to push back the pistons, including your fingers if strong enough, just dont damage the dust seals. However a screw type "G" clamp, or a long threaded bolt, nut and flate plate of steel or large washers with a hole large for the bolt make it a real easy job.

    see; http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=272

    or

    http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=270

    Bleeding the old fluid makes it even earier again + gets rid of the old gunk that collects in the cylinders.

    Even if the rivits/metal backing is scratching the disk, the new pads will wear to fit, eventually, but may take 2~4 weeks depending on the condition and lack of flatness.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 602 ✭✭✭IrishRover


    crosstownk wrote:
    There's a chance that a 1998 Arosa won't have ABS.
    Aye, there's a chance alright :) Well, sure it can be treated as more a general comment so.
    If your not sure what you're doing then I wouldn't mess with bleed nipples and run the risk of introducing air into the system which could result in brake failure!!!!!!
    Yeah I agree, either way I'm not sure it's something that you should do after just reading about it without being shown first.


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