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Damp proofing

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  • 08-08-2006 6:20pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 272 ✭✭


    I am thinking of getting Damp proof solution injected into the solid block walls of an old house. This is a fairly small bungalow. Has anyone had this work done and does it really work. What companys are best at this work. What should it cost approx per linear foot. The house will need other work done such as foot paths , chimney flashings,gutters /pipes, etc etc. etc.
    I have to start somewhere so I thought damp proofing might be the best place.
    I look forward to replies
    Tks n adv


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,062 ✭✭✭Jnealon


    I got this done last year by the damp store, cost 800. they were in and out in a couple of hours. Protim are another company but they were more expensive


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 272 ✭✭nosmo-king


    Thanks for that Jnealon. How many holes did they bore and how far apart . ( I can work out a price on mine if I know that ) Are yours solid walls ?
    Tks again


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,062 ✭✭✭Jnealon


    Lots, every 6 inches. My walls are solid brick, no cavity. They have to drill in to the mortar


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 272 ✭✭nosmo-king


    Thanks for info jnealon.

    If anyone else has had this done pls let me know


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,497 ✭✭✭rooferPete


    Hi,

    You do need to decide the height of your footpaths vs the inside floor level and allow the DPC to be installed at the correct level.

    Dry Zone is a gel type product that has positive ratings, when having the job surveyed make sure you read the small print on the guarantee !

    Of the two mentioned I would prefer Protim but that could be bias on my part.

    .


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 272 ✭✭nosmo-king


    Thanks for all the info folks


  • Registered Users Posts: 482 ✭✭tapest


    rooferPete wrote:
    Hi,

    You do need to decide the height of your footpaths vs the inside floor level and allow the DPC to be installed at the correct level.

    Dry Zone is a gel type product that has positive ratings, when having the job surveyed make sure you read the small print on the guarantee !

    Of the two mentioned I would prefer Protim but that could be bias on my part.

    .


    Hi Pete
    A little knowledge....and dangerous things etc...I Know

    If memory serves me right and it occasionaly does. 4" below level of timber floor, 4" above level of concrete floor. All the gear can be hired , heavy drill, injector pump...and you pay for the amount of "stuff" you use. Cant think of company name (night shift scrambles brain) ...Hugh hire company in UK, and here for last few years
    Pete feel free to slash this to pieces if warranted, as I have this on the long finger for my wee habitat
    regards
    t


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,497 ✭✭✭rooferPete


    Hi t,

    Hard to slash at facts :)

    I would prefer to go belt and braces and inject above and below the concrete floor because the concrete can draw the damp across the floor.

    Dry Zone Gel and most others afaik depend on the mortar in joints to travel along, up and down between the joints in the brick work.

    They also recommend stripping the plaster off the walls inside to a height of 900 mm it appears the product can be drawn up behind the plaster instead of staying in the joint, also gypsum has a negative effect on the fluid before it dry's.

    It's been a long time since I hung the bottles with old Ter ;) everything was hired from H & S (I think).

    Getting old when I can't remember all of the lessons he gave me :)

    .


  • Registered Users Posts: 482 ✭✭tapest


    rooferPete wrote:
    Hi t,

    Hard to slash at facts :)

    I would prefer to go belt and braces and inject above and below the concrete floor because the concrete can draw the damp across the floor.

    Dry Zone Gel and most others afaik depend on the mortar in joints to travel along, up and down between the joints in the brick work.

    They also recommend stripping the plaster off the walls inside to a height of 900 mm it appears the product can be drawn up behind the plaster instead of staying in the joint, also gypsum has a negative effect on the fluid before it dry's.

    It's been a long time since I hung the bottles with old Ter ;) everything was hired from H & S (I think).

    Getting old when I can't remember all of the lessons he gave me :)

    .

    Isn't education a great thing.....I feel I've just bbeen to class. I always (probably incorrectly) thought that the reason for plaster removal was largely cosmetic, ie If there was damp, there would be damp marks / stains which would not disappear when damp was cured because stains were caused by salt in water....NB not challenging, ..rather bowing to your expertise.
    I take your point re two layers sandwich on concrete floor...BUT what are the chances of trapping dampness between the layers ???
    Auld Ter and his buckets of tea...How's the old codger keeping anyway. Pass on my best if he's still talkin' to ya
    t


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