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The Scalding Shower

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  • 01-09-2006 7:21pm
    #1
    Irish Gardener
    Registered Users Posts: 451 ✭✭


    Hi folks, I just had the most uncomfortable shower of my life.
    I was jumping from front to back as the temp kept alternating from cool to roasting.
    The shower is a Triton T90si.
    The alternating temp happened on the high pressure setting mostly, no matter if the dial was set to 1 or 10.
    The water also seemed to splutter once in a while.

    If this craic carries on I am gonna be one smelly mutha.

    Anyone got any ideas as to a problem and solution?


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    #2
    Lex Luthor
    Registered Users Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    temp variation like that normally occurs when the pressure is low, to avoid burning out the element. I think the T90si is a pumped unit
    It could be a few isssues..

    pump on the way out...
    thermal cut out switch failing but if its on & off with teh heat its more than likely the pump I'd guess...

    where is the water source?


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    #3
    Avns1s
    Registered Users Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    You could have a look at this thread too. Seems very similar to your problem!

    http://www.askaboutmoney.com/showthread.php?t=35675


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    #4
    Irish Gardener
    Registered Users Posts: 451 ✭✭Irish Gardener


    Lex Luthor wrote:

    where is the water source?

    Its fed from a tank in the attic seperate from the main water tank


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    #5
    Irish Gardener
    Registered Users Posts: 451 ✭✭Irish Gardener


    Avns1s wrote:
    You could have a look at this thread too. Seems very similar to your problem!

    http://www.askaboutmoney.com/showthread.php?t=35675

    SNAP


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    #6
    Corkey123
    Registered Users Posts: 759 ✭✭✭Corkey123


    There is a way to release any blocked air in the unit. It could be worth a try. Consult the manual.


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    #7
    Lex Luthor
    Registered Users Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    MartinCorcoran wrote:
    There is a way to release any blocked air in the unit. It could be worth a try. Consult the manual.
    I recently installed a T80xr and the way it suggests to release the trapped air is to cycle the temp switch between min & max 10-20 times. Failing that I'd check the filter which could be blocked. This could be the reason why the pump is not seeing enough pressure and the thermal cut off switch kicking in & out

    here's a diagram of your unt showing the location of the filter assembly

    http://www.showerdoc.co.uk/shower-spares/triton/T90SI%20Pumped%20Electric.html


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    #8
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 31,118 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    We have a similar problem with our mobile home gas shower, when the water pressure drops (nearby farmer waters his cattle etc) the heater safely shuts down COLD :eek: turn of cold tap pressure increases enough for the heater to fire, BOILING :eek: readjust cold tap warm:cool: then prey that the mains pressure remains constant.

    Nothing I can do with the temperary accomodation, but in the house I shall install a cold water accumulator, (a tank that stores cold water at mains pressure with an air bladder inside) this will maintain the water pressure within the house and give a constant flow rate to the showers etc.


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    #9
    Irish Gardener
    Registered Users Posts: 451 ✭✭Irish Gardener


    Thanks for all your replies.
    I'll try your suggestions and let you know how I get on.


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    #10
    Corkey123
    Registered Users Posts: 759 ✭✭✭Corkey123


    In the T90 series the is a bleeding procedures you have to do before completing the installation. I think this is different to the T80 series. Check you installation manual.


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    #11
    Irish Gardener
    Registered Users Posts: 451 ✭✭Irish Gardener


    Right folks, I think the problem is solved.
    Heres what I did.

    I did not need to soak the shower head in vinegar as I do that every month anyway (we use vinegar for everything in my house).

    I closed all trip switchs to the shower and took the cover off. I then removed the filter, it was really easy to do. There was one small honeysuckle hedge leaf in it, so I washed it out (can you tell I'm a gardener yet)

    I replaced the filter and opened the bleed screw above it to allow water to fill the filter area again.

    Before I put the cover back on I sat back and had another think about what could be causing the shower to cycle hot and cold. It must have been some form of sensor. There was, what looked like a sensor attached just above where the water leaves the shower and enters the hose, so I extracted that.
    It is visable just above the number 17 in the diagram Lex luthor supplied.

    The face of this sensor in contact with the water seemed to have a slight limey film over it. I reaced for my vinegar and cloth to give it a good buff up. Possibly the limey film was insulating the sensor, which in turn allowed the water to scorchingly heat up and then to overcompensate by chilling down again.

    I then repositioned the sensor and replaced the shower cover. With the power reconnected, I allowed the water to run on cold for about 2 minutes.
    Then I started to check the different heat levels, they all worked and remained constant. Great.

    Thanks for all your help.


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