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Triathlon

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  • 13-10-2006 10:31am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 206 ✭✭


    Hey everyone,
    I'm a total newbie to bike riding and i am going to start doing triathlons soon. But i need a bike, i don't have a clue what type of bike i'll need, i pursume a racing bike, but i hear ppl menting racing and touring and dont know the difference it makes to the bike.
    Well anyway can some one recommend a good bike for triathlons thats cheap as i am only a student and can't afford a high end bike, all i need is a good bike that'll do the job.
    Cheers.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 6,501 ✭✭✭daymobrew


    Visit a bike shop and tell them your budget and needs and they will help find something that matches both.
    If you do triathlons you'll probably need a wetsuit too, unless you limit yourself to the (very few) pool based tris. You can hire them.
    You choose, like me, to only do duathlons. There were 13 duathlons in 2006 (3xLimerick, 4xBelfast, 5xDublin, 1xLongford).
    The selection of triathlons is considerably better to put it mildly.


  • Registered Users Posts: 143 ✭✭aodhu


    I was a tri newbie last year and with one tri season under my belt I feel like I’ve learned a hell of a lot but still feel I’m a bit of a newbie but just not as much!
    There’s a lot to think about when buying a tri bike. Best piece of advice is talk to someone in a tri club. What kind of events are you planning on doing? Lots of Sprints and Olympics are is the goal to do an Ironman? Are the courses mainly flat or will you need something that will allow you to do climbs (Kenmare lost sheep springs to mind!).

    The bike geometry of a try bike is different to a standard racing bike. (Distance between the wheels, slop of the saddle, position of saddle in relation to pedals, etc.) Generally a time trial type back cog (small differences between the rings to make the changing smoother) is useful. And of course the handlebars can be completely different with a tribar set-up. These differences are for two main reasons (that’s not to say there aren’t any others before I get given out to) 1 because in most triathlons drafting isn’t allowed and 2 to help with the transition from cycle to run.

    Now to go back to your original question a “cheap bike that will do the job”. The bike out there that most entry level Triathletes are going for is the Trek 1000 and it does the job for most of them. For entry level you don’t have to worry about everything I’ve said above but it might help understand the differences people talk about. Unless you have the money your best bet is to get a second hand road bike and put a set of good tri bars on in and start cycling.

    Hope this helps.
    A.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,812 ✭✭✭Drapper


    the mud sweat and gears one is on tomorrow in DUblin

    google it mate! its a dirty triathalon all offroad! go out and check it out!

    http://www.belparktriclub.com/


  • Registered Users Posts: 143 ✭✭aodhu


    sounds like fun, but i wouldn't be recommending a trek 1000 for that!! :eek:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 206 ✭✭Phil01


    cheers for the replies,

    I'm going to start at the beginning and do sprints and then work my way up depending on how i do at them. I'm in pretty good shape and i think my swim will only let me down for the tri. I never knew there was so much info on de different bikes and even specialised bikes for the triathlon.
    I have gotten an old raleigh bike i think that will do the job starting off, its a bit rusty needs new wheels maybe a chain and i've to repair the back brakes and i've to get cycling shoes for the pedels, but i think it'll do for a year or so until i can get a better bike and i can see how thinks work out with the triathlon, i'm joining my local club now. And hope to start training soon.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,501 ✭✭✭daymobrew


    Phil01 wrote:
    I have gotten an old raleigh bike i think that will do the job starting off
    I think Lance Armstrong has a book with the title "It's not all about the bike". It's an accurate statement - a top end bike will help, but you are the biggest factor in the equation.
    Having said that, narrow slick tyres, pumped hard, are very helpful. During a race remove excess accessories from the bike (don't carry your u-lock - I saw a guy do that in one of the Phoenix Park duathlons). A speedometer (the cadence info is good). I have the cheaper Mity 8 on my commute bike.

    Joining a club is a good idea - you'll get good training sessions and advice. I should do that.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 206 ✭✭Phil01


    Cheers for the tips daymobrew,
    I reckon there's no need to lock my bike at the transistion area, i might loose the key in the swim!!!!:)
    The person would have to be mad to rob the bike i got now, its rusy as hell, and
    it's probably about 15 years old. I literary found it in an old shed in the back of my house, it was my brothers from years ago when he used to cycle....
    The Mity 8 looks very good and its cheap!! it could come in handy during training
    during the winter. Will definelly consider getting it. I want to start brick training this week so i'm in a hurry to get the bike fixed up!!! Its tedious having to get all the accessories for the bike...


  • Registered Users Posts: 301 ✭✭smcclaw


    If you're intending to use the bike on a trainer at all make sure you get a computer that reads off the back wheel instead of the front. Ignore this if you'll be outside all the time!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 206 ✭✭Phil01


    I was looking at this, specifically at tacx www.tacxvr.com seems like a nice tool to have except for the price range and there seems to be some problems with it, but i reckon i'll stick to the good old fashioned outdoors and battle the rain and hills :)


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