Dry line or Hardwall ???

secman

We are almost at the interior plastering stage of a new build. We are currently first fixing plumbing and very shortly will be first fixing electrics. We have decided to put additional insulation in by way of battening Low E insulation on inside of all exterior walls. These walls will slabbed with sheets of plasterboard. Our dilema is - should we slab all other interior walls or use the sand cement/ hardwall finish? Interested to hear the pro's and cons for each finish.The obvious ones being dry line hides all pipes & wiring, but difficulty with fixing items to wall. Have you opted for one and regretted it ?
This only applies to downstairs as its a Dormer.

Thanks

Secman

Salmon

Would be interested in hearing what you decided on secman! Anyone else have any advice on this one?

secman

Decided on hard wall for the internal walls and will be drylining the exterior walls.Hoping to start the plastering on the 16th April 2007. Can't wait, sick of looking at block work, miles of cable and pipe work.

Corkey123

secman

There is no advantange that I can think off in dry lining interior walls, however I assume when you say hardwall, you also mean a good thickness of bonding under the hardwall/skim coat.

Am I stating the obvious here? I'll get me coat so

Salmon

Best of luck with it! I'd love to be at that stage myself but I guess Ill get there eventually! Just waiting for the blocklayer to finish up so I can get the roof put on!

fatchance

I just used Kingspan insulated plaster boards on all external wall applied using Gypoc.....excellent job! Product name is TW52.

And on dormer section used TW56 screwed to rafters. Also excellent. Should mean a candle will heat the house!

As for fixing, just get longer screws, simple. Or if it's not weight loading then there are loads of fixtures for this job. The one that T shaped is best, tap it into plasterboard like a nail and when you insert screw and tighten it, the flaps widden gripping plasterboard/insulation. Very effective.

Salmon

Hey fatchance! Just wondering how much the Kingspan board cost per slab? Do you know the dimensions of the slab? Im thinking of doin this too in my new build and was hoping I could calculate the cost of this option! My brother has this in and it is a great job!

ardara1

secman wrote:

We have decided to put additional insulation in by way of battening Low E insulation on inside of all exterior walls. Secman

Hi Secman - what's the LOW E insulation? - is it going between the timber battens?

One thing I'd point out for those dry lining with insulation - if you don't seal completely between the insulation and the block with either adhesive dabs or timber batten the air will circulate around the boards and take any benefir from it - it's also a fire hazard - so make sure it goes on properly

fatchance

Have not got a bill yet but when I do I'll let you know, by pricing a few different companies regarding insulation (cavity, attict and soundproofing) I saved 1500euro and this will go along way to paying for boards.

As for air circulation around boards, once the walls are plastered and skerting is in place, this will be insignificant.

ardara1

fatchance wrote:

Have not got a bill yet but when I do I'll let you know, by pricing a few different companies regarding insulation (cavity, attict and soundproofing) I saved 1500euro and this will go along way to paying for boards.

As for air circulation around boards, once the walls are plastered and skerting is in place, this will be insignificant.

Most air pressure test that we have done on dry lined buildings have failed be cause of bad junction ESPECIALLY at the skirting area - it is adviced to seal uner the skirting with mastic - you'd be surprised at the air leakage rate here.

Once a wall has been insulated to the levels you're talking about - these details can account to up to 40% of heat loss.

secman

The Low E is like a condensed bubble wrap with foil on both sides, about as thick as a heavy cardboard. This is placed directly on the wall and the battens are secured by hilti nails. There is a special silver foil tape for sealing all the joints.


Yours
Secman

ardara1

secman wrote:

The Low E is like a condensed bubble wrap with foil on both sides, about as thick as a heavy cardboard. This is placed directly on the wall and the battens are secured by hilti nails. There is a special silver foil tape for sealing all the joints.


Yours
Secman

Use foiled back plasterboard and save yourself a pile of money - the insulation properties of any foil is based on the fact that it improves the thermal performance of the AIR cavity to either side of it to a MAXIMUM equivalent value of 27mm of fibre glass - a normal cavity of 25mm is worth about 8mm - so you'be gained the same as 19mm of fibre glass by buying this material - but then again if you used foiled back plasterboard - you'll get the same result.

They'll argue that it isn't plain foil because there's bubble wrap also - ask them for an agrement cert on the performance.

These foils are being given a hard time in the UK by Building Control and the NHBC

fatchance

Secman, never heard of this bubble wrap stuff before and neither has ardara1 who appears to work in that line. It sounds very labour intensive to put in, you'll be busy.

Maybe you've decided already for this bubble wrap stuff, but look up that kingspan I mentioned earlier.

http://www.insulation.kingspan.com/ireland/tw52.htm

3 slabbers did all my external walls by dabbing in 11/2 days, no way would I undertake to do this myself, those boys know their stuff and earn their money.

Good luck with whatever you decide. I've found that everyone has a different opinion on these sort of things. As Dirty Harry said, "opinions are like assholes, everyones got one"!!!!!!!