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Radiator bleeding trouble

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  • 11-11-2006 3:25pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 3,064 ✭✭✭


    There are two radiators in my house which remain half cold when heating is on. There must be some air trapped in the top of them.
    I know how to bleed radiator, but the problem is that those little bleeding screws are completely worn off.
    I've bought radiator bleeding key but it has nothing to grip on :( and it's very awkward to reach those screws cause they're very close to the wall :mad:
    Any ideas how to undo them?


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    j@utis wrote:
    There are two radiators in my house which remain half cold when heating is on. There must be some air trapped in the top of them.
    I know how to bleed radiator, but the problem is that those little bleeding screws are completely worn off.
    I've bought radiator bleeding key but it has nothing to grip on :( and it's very awkward to reach those screws cause they're very close to the wall :mad:
    Any ideas how to undo them?
    If the vent is facing the wall and the head is broken off completely, you won't get the remains out - certainly not without taking the rad off the wall.
    If the vent is on the end of the rad, it is likely that the complete fitting can be removed and replaced.
    If it can't be replaced, the only answer is to buy the complete fitting and drill and tap the rad in an area where the metal seems to be thick enough.
    If there is a lot of air, there is a way of removing it in the short term. Often the rad can be lifted off the wall while still connected. If so, loosen the nuts at the valves on each side slightly (Have towels ready). Then lift off the rad, swing it forward, so that the top of the rad is lower than the valves. Then loosen one of the nuts some more. There may be a slight leak of water, but you should also get most of the air out.
    Jim.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,064 ✭✭✭j@utis


    Yeah, I'm thinking about drilling small hole on the top of the rad and use a srew to close it. I might need some rubber washers too. Would that work?
    I don't wanna do 'big changes' because I just rent the house (our landlord doesn't care about us too much although we've asked a dozen times about this issue).


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭wyndham


    j@utis wrote:
    Yeah, I'm thinking about drilling small hole on the top of the rad and use a srew to close it. I might need some rubber washers too. Would that work?

    Sounds like an absolute disaster waiting to happen if you try that. I wouldn't attempt anything of the sort.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,134 ✭✭✭Moanin


    wyndham wrote:
    Sounds like an absolute disaster waiting to happen if you try that. I wouldn't attempt anything of the sort.


    I was in the same position as you before so I drilled a small hole in the top and stuck a screw in it.It worked perfectly except for a small sprinkling of water!


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,064 ✭✭✭j@utis


    It would be done by now, but I'm a little afraid of what if I can't stop water running?!! Is it a big pressure inside the system? How hard is it to stop water running?
    Anyways, it looks to me that have no other choice :( I either drill the hole or freeze to death :(

    What type of screw did you use, Moanin?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    Moanin wrote:
    I was in the same position as you before so I drilled a small hole in the top and stuck a screw in it.It worked perfectly except for a small sprinkling of water!
    Certainly not recomended. But I have seen it done before. If you must - use a self tapping screw and ptfe tape. Remember, as soon as you drill the hole and the air is gone, then you have WATER :eek:. Hopefully you get the screw in quick enough - and it's the right size.
    You can of course shut off the valves at both ends while you are drilling.
    What the Landlord will think is something else.
    Jim.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,064 ✭✭✭j@utis


    I'm gonna buy the smallest drill bit possible and drill that end of rad which is covered with curtain ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 482 ✭✭tapest


    j@utis / JamesM

    Most rads I,ve seen with the bleeders behind them are nor recessed into rad(and that would account for lots of wear, using pliers etc), but are proud...and a small vice-grips is the answer.
    However if in fact they are recessed, I wonder if one could "cut" a screwdriver slot by gentle taps with sharpened driver as they are soft brass??
    Interested in your opinion JamesM
    t


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    tapest wrote:
    j@utis / JamesM

    Most rads I,ve seen with the bleeders behind them are nor recessed into rad(and that would account for lots of wear, using pliers etc), but are proud...and a small vice-grips is the answer.
    However if in fact they are recessed, I wonder if one could "cut" a screwdriver slot by gentle taps with sharpened driver as they are soft brass??
    Interested in your opinion JamesM
    t
    In most cases I have seen where the vent is recessed, the problem has been that the head has completely broken off and there is nothing to grip. I think that the brass vents are quite hard and little bits chip off the edges when people try to turn them with a pliars. You would have to take the rad off the wall to do anything with a screwdriver and I think that the brass would crack anyway. Just a guess - I have no experience of this.
    Jim.


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