remote car starters......asswipes !

Owen

ninty9er wrote:

Don't most new cars require the clutch to be depressed, I know the new Focus and Yaris NG require it to be done anyway, have heard the Laguna requires it be done too. This would really render an auto starters useless

Very well spotted. In fact the newer BMW's and MINIs now require the same thing. And they also require the key to be present in the vehicle (Immobiliser circuit is present in the key). So technically, you'll need a method of bypassing the switch in the Clutch Master Cylinder, key present, and the ignition also bypassed. Sounds like warranty null and void - but I'm guessing the majority of these fleabay installation kits are installed on cars out of warranty/without immobilisers & alarms.

JohnCleary

ned78 wrote:

Very well spotted. In fact the newer BMW's and MINIs now require the same thing. And they also require the key to be present in the vehicle (Immobiliser circuit is present in the key). So technically, you'll need a method of bypassing the switch in the Clutch Master Cylinder, key present, and the ignition also bypassed. Sounds like warranty null and void - but I'm guessing the majority of these fleabay installation kits are installed on cars out of warranty/without immobilisers & alarms.

I'd hardly compare a Clifford system with a fleabay kit... but yes, you're not gonna have a system like this installed on a top notch BMW etc...

Personally I wouldn't pay someone to install this kit for me, I only did as a little project for myself, kept me busy for a few hours and it scares the cr4p out of some people in car parks

Fratton Fred

JohnCleary wrote:

Personally I wouldn't pay someone to install this kit for me, I only did as a little project for myself, kept me busy for a few hours and it scares the cr4p out of some people in car parks

especially when it flies accross the car park and into someone elses car??

I would guess that 90% of these are fitted to civics with big boy exhausts and black windows, you know, the ones you have to drive whilst sitting at 45% :rolleyes:

MercMad

Whilst were are all being pedantic here................surely it would be more comfortable to sit at 45 degrees !!

DublinDilbert

You can pick up such systems in canada from about €80 upwards...

The problem with fitting these to most modern cars is that you need to by-pass the imobiliser to get them to work....

I did hear of a couple being killed by one while they were sleeping! their car was in their garage, and some how it started up, and the exhaust was pumped around the house by the forced air heating system, and they died.

( On a slightly more positive note, i have one of these systems brand new in a box at home if anyone wants it )

maidhc

mukki wrote:

what are you all on about engine damage, sure your shiny new car will be a cube in 10 years, long before engine wear will be a problem, i'd just want it so that the inside of the car will be warm for me and the windows de-misted and de-frosted

Very true.

If you have a turbocharged engine (even a modern one) you really should let it idle for 60 seconds or so. Turbos blowing before your car being in a cube is not unheard of.

Gerry

ned78 wrote:

I work for a Motor Dealer, and a high tech based one at that. And I work on my own engines too. I've experience of Carb based, and EFI based engines. As someone mechanically inclined, and with a mechanical background, I would say it's good practise for all engines to be warmed up. Yes an engine can drive straight off, but it's better overall to let it run, even for 30 seconds. No one claimed at any stage that a car couldn't be driven straight off, it's just those with Mechanical Sympathy prefer to leave the car alone for the first 30 seconds (It normally takes me this long to turn the radio on and decide which station to listen to anyway) ... it's not a long length of time.

For example, if you drive straight off in an R50 MINI Cooper, you run the risk of damaging the Power Steering, as the mechanical based Steering Pump hasn't had the chance to get the hydraulic fluid flowing for the first 3 seconds.



You make mention of engines storing oil in the Galleries ... some do, but what happens if your engine is one of the ones that lets the oil drain to the sump so you can get a correct dipstick reading? Refer to my first post then that says that my argument refers to a lot of engines, but not all.

Most 'modern engines' as you call them, have lambda sensors to automatically remap based on the lamda sensors, and other factors such as humidity, rpm, barometric pressure to ensure running rich doesn't happen. The only engine that should run rich is a carb based engine, and a badly tuned one at that - perhaps a really crappy fuel injected one too! Wasting fuel? Isn't that what driving is all about

ned, your argument makes a fair amount of sense, but.. Go back and read my post. The owners manual for my car states to drive away, why should I take your advice over that of the people who designed and manufactured the car, and bothered writing that in the book ( perhaps to correct a common misconception ?). I wonder what owners manuals for other cars say.
I wasn't suggesting to drive away instantly. I would let the car idle for a few seconds at least. After that if you do not have full oil pressure, and full oil supply to the cams, your oil pump is gone, pickup tube is blocked, or your engine is worn. I have plenty of mechanical sympathy, perhaps too much. My car uses hydraulic tappets, one or two of them might tick for a second if the car has not been started in a few days and they pump down. Of course I'll wait for them to stop ticking before driving away.
Bear in mind that we are only talking about driving away, and I mentioned in my post about driving gently until the engine is warm. Bear in mind as well that sitting around idling takes a long time to warm up the oil in your car. My car is turbocharged, and I wouldn't use any boost until the coolant is up to temp, so that there is some change of the oil being up to temp ( yes, need to fit an oil temp guage ).

Owen

Gerry wrote:

ned, your argument makes a fair amount of sense, but.. Go back and read my post. The owners manual for my car states to drive away, why should I take your advice over that of the people who designed and manufactured the car, and bothered writing that in the book

You shouldn't. That's why in my first post, and I referred to it in my second, I stated that my scenario is for MOST cars not ALL Cars.

My new car for '07 is a twin scroll turbo (I note yours is Turbo too), and is coming with what's called a Cockpit package - this includes 2 temp guages for oil and water, an oil pressure guage and a turbo pressure guage. I will not be driving off my driveway in the morning until I see the oil temp rise just a little. It's what I do when I fly, and it'll be what I do when I drive too.

galwaytt

Ned, thinking about it, modern EFI cars will control the fueling to an extent that idling is neglibly different from warm, but I still feel the oil system facts remain......if the car were a dry-sump engine, and you had this effect, you could safely say that the scavenge system/valving is worn, as it's 'wet sumping' when not running, and pressure is definately required. A wet sump engine, otoh, should not (very) noticeably drain down over normal non-running periods (e.g. whilst at work, overnight).

BTW - update.
Noddy in the Civic decided he didn't like the quote from the body shop - including the shop HE recommended, and got all thick and personal with the brother over it, and wouldn't pay for it. So, we took his details from his insurance disc on the window, called 'our' insurer, and their assessor will be out tomorrow. We're also telling 'our' insurer that the Civic is modified, and we'll see how he likes his renewal next year............should have stepped up, and paid up - now it'll all just end in tears...............

mukki

maidhc wrote:

Very true.

If you have a turbocharged engine (even a modern one) you really should let it idle for 60 seconds or so. Turbos blowing before your car being in a cube is not unheard of.

i read something about that before but was it "idling for 60 before turning the engine off"

maidhc wrote:

Humm...



My 1968 Ford 4000 tractor has a safety switch to prevent it being started in gear.



I always idle my car for a minute or so every morning, but no longer. It is uncooperative when cold anyway so I drive it very lightly until it warms up.

ah yes the auld my tractor is better then your car, reminds me of primary school

ps difference is my david brown was better!