Live self-Builds - mod warning in post no. 1

LoTwan

We are not finished by any stretch of the imagination but we are in bed in our new home. 12.5 weeks after the rising walls were started!

muffler

LoTwan wrote: »

We are not finished by any stretch of the imagination but we are in bed in our new home. 12.5 weeks after the rising walls were started!

Crikey, that was fast

Poor Uncle Tom

LoTwan wrote: »

We are not finished by any stretch of the imagination but we are in bed in our new home. 12.5 weeks after the rising walls were started!

Don't relax the pace now that you are in. It's a mistake a lot of people make.

LoTwan

muffler wrote: »

Crikey, that was fast

I'm just that good :-)

PUT... everything that has to be finished is scheduled for before the end of next week :-)

Nedserk

Hi all,

Great site. I'm just in late planning stages and the Co.Council need more info and details of the Bord na Mona polishing filter specified by the site assessor. Should i try and get planning for a more universal system or is this system the best option anyway?
Cheers

muffler

Nedserk wrote: »

Hi all,

Great site. I'm just in late planning stages and the Co.Council need more info and details of the Bord na Mona polishing filter specified by the site assessor. Should i try and get planning for a more universal system or is this system the best option anyway?
Cheers

Sewage treatment units are very much site specific and there really is no such thing as a "universal system". You should talk to your site assessor.

LoTwan

muffler wrote: »

And a guest list for the house warming party. I'll PM you my address

It's on this weekend :-) Are you around?

muffler

LoTwan wrote: »

It's on this weekend :-) Are you around?

I'm tempted

anjisbuild

I have been following this thread while waiting for planning. Finally after 2 years, 4 applications and a hell of a lot of money, we got planning last week. My question is re. insulation and how much is enough for a cavity build (cant really justify the payback for icf and not enough faith in tf). Was thinking of putting 150mm in walls, 350mm in attic and 200mm in floor. This would be in combination with a heat pump (air to water) and underfloor heating downstairs - against too much heating in bedrooms. Also half thinking of adding a 50mm layer of dry lining to internal side of all external walls. Aim to have house airtight and run with an MHRV

Can anyone advice on this? Would appreciate any help as a complete novice but very hopeful.

Angie

newhouse

have put 70mm board in cavity, 50mm drylining board inside external walls, 125mm in floor and 400mm in attic, have MHRV: house is snug.
your insulation spec is well above building regs.

anjisbuild

newhouse wrote: »

have put 70mm board in cavity, 50mm drylining board inside external walls, 125mm in floor and 400mm in attic, have MHRV: house is snug.
your insulation spec is well above building regs.

Thanks Newhouse, did you use a lot of oil over winter or does a stove give you adequate heat? Way oil and gas prices are going, Id prefer not to have to depend on them tto much for space heating. Figured going above regulations might help with that but as I said Im a novice to all of this

newhouse

anjisbuild wrote: »

Thanks Newhouse, did you use a lot of oil over winter or does a stove give you adequate heat? Way oil and gas prices are going, Id prefer not to have to depend on them tto much for space heating. Figured going above regulations might help with that but as I said Im a novice to all of this

sorry-we are not living in the house yet - putting in an oil range in kitchen, not very green i know but have spent the last number of years feeding a stanley with wood and taking out ashes!! have solar panel for hot water and to tick the renewable energy box and a little solid fuel stove in sitting room, also gas oven for cooking

beyondpassive

anjisbuild wrote: »

I have been following this thread while waiting for planning. Finally after 2 years, 4 applications and a hell of a lot of money, we got planning last week. My question is re. insulation and how much is enough for a cavity build (cant really justify the payback for icf and not enough faith in tf). Was thinking of putting 150mm in walls, 350mm in attic and 200mm in floor. This would be in combination with a heat pump (air to water) and underfloor heating downstairs - against too much heating in bedrooms. Also half thinking of adding a 50mm layer of dry lining to internal side of all external walls. Aim to have house airtight and run with an MHRV

Can anyone advice on this? Would appreciate any help as a complete novice but very hopeful.

Angie

Insulation depends on how much surface area you have. If you have rooms in the roof and how you intend to deal with the rising wall cold bridge. Its a good idea to keep the structure warm so that it can store heat and buffer swings in temperature. Insulation is cheaper than oil or heat pump electricity. All insulations are different, so aim for insulations in the roof that have some weight. Softboard and celluose are best for rooms in the roof as they can hold heat and prevent overheating.

Insulating the inside of the structure is a terrible idea as the structure remains cold and can be below dew point. You want your structure to be as close as possible to ambient temperatures inside. This will buffer fluctuations in temperature and will improve your experience of comfort. You'll also use less fossil fuels and we know where fuel costs are going.

Good stuff on the airtighness and MHRV

anjisbuild

beyondpassive wrote: »

Insulation depends on how much surface area you have. If you have rooms in the roof and how you intend to deal with the rising wall cold bridge. Its a good idea to keep the structure warm so that it can store heat and buffer swings in temperature. Insulation is cheaper than oil or heat pump electricity. All insulations are different, so aim for insulations in the roof that have some weight. Softboard and celluose are best for rooms in the roof as they can hold heat and prevent overheating.

Insulating the inside of the structure is a terrible idea as the structure remains cold and can be below dew point. You want your structure to be as close as possible to ambient temperatures inside. This will buffer fluctuations in temperature and will improve your experience of comfort. You'll also use less fossil fuels and we know where fuel costs are going.

Good stuff on the airtighness and MHRV

Thanks for the info, no matter how much research I do I am always way behind. I have planning for a 2 storey so initially dont plan to use the attic space although Id like to have it build to make space for decent storage. Met with 2 TFcompanies this week and still not any clearer on what I want/should do. I know it all comes down to good workmanship (and what we hope we can afford to do) but it seems like that decisions like insulation will be as headwrecking as the whole planning process.

AckwelFoley

House designs are almost done. We're very happy with it, nice 4/5 bedroom 2 storey @2000 sq ft.

Ive found out the levy for the council is 5450 euro. Ouch. But the biggest problem is the foundation, its going to be either raft or pile. Im at the stage now where i have to get the engineer to decide if he needs testing done to determine which.

BryanF

snyper wrote: »

House designs are almost done. We're very happy with it, nice 4/5 bedroom 2 storey @2000 sq ft.

Ive found out the levy for the council is 5450 euro. Ouch. But the biggest problem is the foundation, its going to be either raft or pile. Im at the stage now where i have to get the engineer to decide if he needs testing done to determine which.

take a look at a certain website... think 'northern fellas that started the settlement of dublin 1000 years agos':D then add 'house'.

(no connection BTW, its just they have innovative insulated foundations systems) start thinking about how you will avoid all thermal bridges, max insulation, airtightness...so on and on

good luck with it

BryanF

anjisbuild wrote: »

I have been following this thread while waiting for planning. Finally after 2 years, 4 applications and a hell of a lot of money, we got planning last week. My question is re. insulation and how much is enough for a cavity build (cant really justify the payback for icf and not enough faith in tf). Was thinking of putting 150mm in walls, 350mm in attic and 200mm in floor. This would be in combination with a heat pump (air to water) and underfloor heating downstairs - against too much heating in bedrooms. Also half thinking of adding a 50mm layer of dry lining to internal side of all external walls. Aim to have house airtight and run with an MHRV

Can anyone advice on this? Would appreciate any help as a complete novice but very hopeful.

Angie

+1 with what Passive guy said.

May i ask why you don't have enough faith in timber frame?

If it was me and I had to go traditional cav block, I'd put in a 200 or 250 cavity. 150mm is only just below Building regs, there are however some issue with widening the cavity, they are mainly due to this being all new to alot of contractors, but then as you may find so is airtightness. IMHO employ an Arch or arch tech that is versed in airtight MVHR construction methods.
Insulation at your stage of the project is probably the cheapest thing you can do to save energy in the future.

I'm not convinced about Air to water, may I ask how you reached this decision.

BTW congratulation on what seems like an arduous planning experience.

some of the wide cavity issues discussed here:
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=71303904

anjisbuild

BryanF wrote: »

+1 with what Passive guy said.

May i ask why you don't have enough faith in timber frame?

If it was me and I had to go traditional cav block, I'd put in a 200 or 250 cavity. 150mm is only just below Building regs, there are however some issue with widening the cavity, they are mainly due to this being all new to alot of contractors, but then as you may find so is airtightness. IMHO employ an Arch or arch tech that is versed in airtight MVHR construction methods.
Insulation at your stage of the project is probably the cheapest thing you can do to save energy in the future.

I'm not convinced about Air to water, may I ask how you reached this decision.

Thanks Bryan, heard lots of stuff about TF being quick to heat up but equally as quick to loose heat. Re heat pump have been following reviews in Selfbuild magazine and an engineer friend of mine also recommends them. Am however going to wait until next year as due baby no. 2 any day and dont want to make rash pregnancy driven decisions at mo.

Most people I meet, and it seems most people on this website seem to favour block cavity and I just wonder if this is because its what we have always been doing or just because we dont like change - with cavity block Id just be worried that I would have more issues with thermal bridging.....cant make my mind up

BryanF

anjisbuild wrote: »

Thanks Bryan, heard lots of stuff about TF being quick to heat up but equally as quick to loose heat. Re heat pump have been following reviews in Selfbuild magazine and an engineer friend of mine also recommends them. Am however going to wait until next year as due baby no. 2 any day and dont want to make rash pregnancy driven decisions at mo.

Most people I meet, and it seems most people on this website seem to favour block cavity and I just wonder if this is because its what we have always been doing or just because we dont like change - with cavity block Id just be worried that I would have more issues with thermal bridging.....cant make my mind up

TF and its thermal capacity are no reason to discount the construction method. thermal mass is more relevant in warm countries where masonry construction keeps the build cooler during the day. if you have a well insulated, air-tight building with say MVHR it should not matter which method you go for. TF uses alot less embodied energy over concrete block.
re air source heat pumps (not the geothermal kind): the reason they appear popular is they are cheap, but the cheap ones don't last, and Ive yet to see anyone back up with actual data the claims made (in Ireland). if you price a good one you'll find other solutions are as economical + their efficiency worsening drastically at low tempeture's like we had over the last few winters, where many of them freeze and stop working. there are however some that are connected as part of a MVHR unit that appear to be successful, but they are only reheating a small % of air as the MVHR system does the bulk of the work.
cavity: your right we don't like change. I had a client actually say 'isn't a concrete home a better built home?' talk about the concrete industry delighted with their marketing department.(that's the slogan on their adds by BTW):)

good luck wit no. 2 and when you get back to the house plans, please go with the maximum amount of insulation, air-tightness and a good ventilation strategy before listening to anyone about heating systems.

in the mean time maybe go visit a certified passive house ( check out the air quality from the mvhr system) to give you an option/opinion on where best construction practices can get you. Mods cut out 'passive' if you wish.

beyondpassive

anjisbuild wrote: »

it seems like that decisions like insulation will be as headwrecking as the whole planning process.

It doesn't need to be, the Passive house planning program allows you to model the house and work out the most appropriate ways of reducing energy waste, even if you only intend getting halfway between basic building regs performance and fully passive. Unlike the planning system its an evidence based approach, no guesswork.

The next generation timber frame we specify, has very good thermal capacity, we specify dense materials like cellulose and softboard which can store heat and help regulate temperatures in the building as outside temperatures fluctuate.

I dont agree that everyone needs to go fully Passivhaus, the full duck or no dinner approach to passivhaus, as it isnt suited for every site, budget and client preference. To abuse another analogy, you can still go swimming and not get your hair wet. Most builds I advise on, go for 18-22kWh/m2 per annum for space heating which goes three quarters the distance between mere regs standard and fully certified passive, its the most cost effective performance level for most builds, any less is reckless considering where oil prices are going.

anjisbuild

beyondpassive wrote: »

It doesn't need to be, the Passive house planning program allows you to model the house and work out the most appropriate ways of reducing energy waste, even if you only intend getting halfway between basic building regs performance and fully passive. Unlike the planning system its an evidence based approach, no guesswork.

The next generation timber frame we specify, has very good thermal capacity, we specify dense materials like cellulose and softboard which can store heat and help regulate temperatures in the building as outside temperatures fluctuate.

I dont agree that everyone needs to go fully Passivhaus, the full duck or no dinner approach to passivhaus, as it isnt suited for every site, budget and client preference. To abuse another analogy, you can still go swimming and not get your hair wet. Most builds I advise on, go for 18-22kWh/m2 per annum for space heating which goes three quarters the distance between mere regs standard and fully certified passive, its the most cost effective performance level for most builds, any less is reckless considering where oil prices are going.

Thanks Passivhaus, would you, or anyone else knowledgeable in timber frame, be able to recommend (by PM of course) a good TF company. Im building in Kerry, south facing site. Thanks

manufan16

After much deliberation and analyses of contractor quotes I have decided to go direct labor on my ICF build.

The official mortgage application has gone to the banks via broker and I hope to start in the next couple of weeks :-)

splashthecash

manufan16 wrote: »

After much deliberation and analyses of contractor quotes I have decided to go direct labor on my ICF build.

The official mortgage application has gone to the banks via broker and I hope to start in the next couple of weeks :-)

Good luck manufan! - I hear you save a lot but it adds a lot of additional work onto you...I'd like to think I will do the same.

Was there much savings to be made as opposed to a contractor?

How long did it take you to get all the quotes in from potential suppliers?

manufan16

Hi Splashthecash,

The project was out to tender several times since the start of the year. I have been pricing since then and researching alot longer.

I am not so sure direct labor will return huge savings maybe some if the project goes to plan but thats not guaranteed however I am confident enough in my research and planning abilities to do it and I'm already living on the site which should help greatly.

I have the same budget I started with for a contractor, whatever savings I do make along the way will be re-invested into the spec of the internal finishes in the house.

mistermister

snyper wrote: »

House designs are almost done. We're very happy with it, nice 4/5 bedroom 2 storey @2000 sq ft.

Ive found out the levy for the council is 5450 euro. Ouch. But the biggest problem is the foundation, its going to be either raft or pile. Im at the stage now where i have to get the engineer to decide if he needs testing done to determine which.

Ha it's 18,000 for me

manufan16

mistermister wrote: »

Ha it's 18,000 for me

Lucky you, even with the reduction in wholesale price index mine is €27k :mad:

muffler

mistermister wrote: »

Ha it's 18,000 for me

manufan16 wrote: »

Lucky you, even with the reduction in wholesale price index mine is €27k :mad:

Perhaps you guys could post the details on this thread on development contributions

sas

Been a long time since I've posted anything.

Had numerous problems with my windows. The units themselves are great but there were some issues which I was left deeply disappointed over. I believe I've resolved the majority of them but it shouldn't have taken 3.5 months to get there. This has really taken the good out of this build as they say.
I was warned that inspite of my best efforts, things will go wrong and sometimes in the most unexpected way.

I saw some finished work by the company doing my EWI work and it was fantastic to say the least. But EWI is as much as about ensuring gap free insulation as it is sharp finished walls. I've been black and white on my expectations on this.

Here's hoping I come back with some nice pics and a more positive outlook on our build in a few days.

sas

Here's a couple of pics anyway.

Main observation is that the squareness and accuracy of the boards is very good.

T&G detail of the boards is shown (somewhat).

I really hope the forecast holds...

sydthebeat

nice one sas, hopefully the weather holds out for you.
i think ill call out today for a look