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Live self-Builds - mod warning in post no. 1
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HRV first fix done. Nearing the completion of 1st fix plumbing and electrics. Blown insulation starting tomorrow. Cavity is already pumped. Delay on the windows but due end of this week (start of next no doubt).
Builder is primed to get stuck into dry-lining and floor screed before we go about taping all the joints etc for air-tightness.
Went for underfloor heating throughout in the end working off an air-to-water heat pump backed up by an existing oil-boiler we salvaged from the original dwelling. Went two grand over budget to do so because I wanted the solar tubes which I originally was just going to plumb for but not actually install. Plumber convinced me but I think I got a decent price for the whole job - 22,000
Electrics came in on budget exactly - 10,000. There's a good bit in there so again, think I did well.
I've 2xCat6, 2xCT100 and 1xRG6 to 5 TV points.
Local-run of HDMI to two of those (corner to TV wall-mount).
Wired for surround sound in two locations.
5amp circuits for bedside and lounge lamps/sockets.
Cat6 to each bedside, kitchen, living, lounge, sunroom and study.
Full burglar alarm with shock detectors on all ground-floor windows.
Wiring to future electric gate.
Outside lights on 4 corners.
Outdoor sockets front and rear.
70/80 odd sockets within the house.
Wiring to all Kitchen, Utility, Hot Press appliances and showers and wiring to air-source-heat pump (obv).
MHRV and Centralised Vaccuum came in around 5600 euro. 600 euro over budget for MHRV only so Vaccum essentially installed for 600 quid (that's how my mind works anyways
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Oh - Sanitary Ware for main bathroom, ensuite and downstairs toilet came in at 3400 sterling (4000 euro) - 1400 euro below budget.
Tiles we priced also - 105 sq yards of flooring and approx 85 sq yards walls in bathrooms. Tiles came in at 3000 sterling, Tiler quoted 2,200 for the whole lot plus adhesive which will be about 400 he reckons. So 6 grand to tile where we need it. Sounds a lot and it is but there's a serious amount of floor to be covered.
With the underfloor I expect the tiles to function the best too. I'm researching low-tog underlay and carpet for certain rooms but otherwise will consider laminate or semi-solid. Solid is recommended against but apparently if you give it enough time to settle before laying it until the moisture content is super-low it can work quite well. More research required but I can see the flooring being my next big headache in terms of decision making.0 -
ShiverinEskimo wrote: »HRV first fix done. Nearing the completion of 1st fix plumbing and electrics. Blown insulation starting tomorrow. Cavity is already pumped. Delay on the windows but due end of this week (start of next no doubt).
Builder is primed to get stuck into dry-lining and floor screed before we go about taping all the joints etc for air-tightness.
Went for underfloor heating throughout in the end working off an air-to-water heat pump backed up by an existing oil-boiler we salvaged from the original dwelling. Went two grand over budget to do so because I wanted the solar tubes which I originally was just going to plumb for but not actually install. Plumber convinced me but I think I got a decent price for the whole job - 22,000
Electrics came in on budget exactly - 10,000. There's a good bit in there so again, think I did well.
I've 2xCat6, 2xCT100 and 1xRG6 to 5 TV points.
Local-run of HDMI to two of those (corner to TV wall-mount).
Wired for surround sound in two locations.
5amp circuits for bedside and lounge lamps/sockets.
Cat6 to each bedside, kitchen, living, lounge, sunroom and study.
Full burglar alarm with shock detectors on all ground-floor windows.
Wiring to future electric gate.
Outside lights on 4 corners.
Outdoor sockets front and rear.
70/80 odd sockets within the house.
Wiring to all Kitchen, Utility, Hot Press appliances and showers and wiring to air-source-heat pump (obv).
MHRV and Centralised Vaccuum came in around 5600 euro. 600 euro over budget for MHRV only so Vaccum essentially installed for 600 quid (that's how my mind works anyways)
Oh - Sanitary Ware for main bathroom, ensuite and downstairs toilet came in at 3400 sterling (4000 euro) - 1400 euro below budget.
Tiles we priced also - 105 sq yards of flooring and approx 85 sq yards walls in bathrooms. Tiles came in at 3000 sterling, Tiler quoted 2,200 for the whole lot plus adhesive which will be about 400 he reckons. So 6 grand to tile where we need it. Sounds a lot and it is but there's a serious amount of floor to be covered.
With the underfloor I expect the tiles to function the best too. I'm researching low-tog underlay and carpet for certain rooms but otherwise will consider laminate or semi-solid. Solid is recommended against but apparently if you give it enough time to settle before laying it until the moisture content is super-low it can work quite well. More research required but I can see the flooring being my next big headache in terms of decision making.
Hi! Well done on your build so far!
Curious.... how did you pump your cavity without the windows in??? This is the part we are struggling with at the moment, but we have our windows in now and need to figure out how to close the reveals/cavities....0 -
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ShiverinEskimo wrote: »The outer leaf was turned in 90 degrees around each window to meet a strip of kingspan insulation against the inner leaf and form a seal. Was a fairly tidy job I have to admit. Builder seemed like he knew what he was at. I'll be out on site over the next day or two. I'll try to get a picture.
That sounds like something we should have done! Any ideas why our builder would not have put an L block in place around windows? We are returning 50mm insulated board around inner block to window frame. But we are unsure if we can do this now without any insulating tape? Will the bead be ok held in by the insulated board and plaster?
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As promised. The L actually was brought outwards from the inner leaf. You can see the strips of kingspan in the surround and then a poured concrete section on the inner sill.
They had since splashed the outer leaf so that's why it's speckled with shíte. Looked a lot tidier last time I was out.
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ShiverinEskimo wrote: »As promised. The L actually was brought outwards from the inner leaf. You can see the strips of kingspan in the surround and then a poured concrete section on the inner sill.
They had since splashed the outer leaf so that's why it's speckled with shíte. Looked a lot tidier last time I was out.
Is this an alternative to using off the shelf cavity closures and is it a better method?0 -
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Is this an alternative to using off the shelf cavity closures and is it a better method?
Couldn't tell you lad.
That's how my architect and builder did it so that's how it was done. There may be better ways but I'm quite happy with how neat it generally is. Should be good and snug when the windows are in (assuming the windows are manufactured to measurements of course).0 -
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Start date July 7th 2012
Starting putting rigid insulation in eaves today, got about 3 rooms almost complete with the help of a freind
Hopefully starting the ceiling boards tomorrow if we get a working generator (joys of a self build )
Facia & soffit completed today, except downpipes and sunroom due to the plasterer needed to do gables. We dont want to mess up our lovely aluminium gutters
All coming along nicely, we'll get as much insulation done this weekend as we can. And next week we hope to see plastering started and plumbing 2nd part of 1st fix in.
Moving in wish date is June 1st!!!0 -
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Start date July 7th 2012
External plastering flying along.
Front door in, back door waiting to go in, arrived with problems as usual!
Interior ceiling slabs started this evening.
Plumbing is in progress (2nd part of 1st fix, so i believe...)
Loads happening 0 -
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correct me if I am wrong but do you or your engineer not see an issue with heating your hrv supply duct which will have some form of stagnant moisture which will create a breathing ground for leigenares (spell) I taught this was the reason hrv was slow to become intergreated with ch systems ie one unit to cover all aspects of ventilation and heating.My HRV system has 2 heat exchangers in it, one connected to 60 solar tubes and one to an air source heat pump. If its a sunny day and the house is below a set temperature the tubes will feed heat to the HRV system and trickle warm air into the house and also heat water if needed. Heat can be drawn from the tank at night if required or boosted by heat pump.
Also have ufh downstairs and bathrooms upstairs. Heat pump has been heating house lovely but the solar helps drop demand for heatpump when it's sunny. Need some more data to see how much if an impact.
Google ires controller and it should link you to more details.
From reading your post the hrv unit sound great don't get me wrong i would have loved a unit simmular to your just didn't reilise thier existence as i just took delivery of two ventaxa units yesterday and am starting to install the systems ductwork myself tomorrow. total novice but that's selfbuild for ya.0 -
That's an interesting point that wasn't brought up that I'll look into. Practically I don't think the supply ducting would have much if any stagnant moisture in it anyway so the risks should be minimal. The HRV unit itself is a proair with the heat exchangers shortly after the HRV unit. Nice way to boost the efficiency of the system.
correct me if I am wrong but do you or your engineer not see an issue with heating your hrv supply duct which will have some form of stagnant moisture which will create a breathing ground for leigenares (spell) I taught this was the reason hrv was slow to become intergreated with ch systems ie one unit to cover all aspects of ventilation and heating.
From reading your post the hrv unit sound great don't get me wrong i would have loved a unit simmular to your just didn't reilise thier existence as i just took delivery of two ventaxa units yesterday and am starting to install the systems ductwork myself tomorrow. total novice but that's selfbuild for ya.0 -
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