Live self-Builds - mod warning in post no. 1

893bet

stickybookmark wrote: »

What kind of door did you get?

Double composite door on mahogany/teak frame.


Just asked brother law and he said it depends on the door in question if you can paint. If it's a composite door in timber frame then it's easy change colour. Primer coat and two finish coats job done.

However a lot of companies fit composite doors into pvc type frames. The pvc frames don't take paint very well.

stickybookmark

893bet wrote: »

Double composite door on mahogany/teak frame.


Just asked brother law and he said it depends on the door in question if you can paint. If it's a composite door in timber frame then it's easy change colour. Primer coat and two finish coats job done.

However a lot of companies fit composite doors into pvc type frames. The pvc frames don't take paint very well.

Cheers, really appreciate you asking him

893bet

My frame is ready!

893bet

And 2 of these doors!

893bet

Glass and lead work

stickybookmark

looks great. Composite door on timber frame seems to be the way to go so. You can change colour and don't have to worry as much about warping. Also I assume a better U value than if everything was timber
Need to get my door ordered over Xmas now !

893bet

Fitted!

893bet

Looks great from the inside I think.

stickybookmark

893bet wrote: »

Looks great from the inside I think.

Do both parts open?

893bet

No only one side opens. Other one is a false door.

sydthebeat

how far into the house does the floor slab stop?
in other words, whats the distance from the door leaf to the slab?

893bet

sydthebeat wrote: »

how far into the house does the floor slab stop?
in other words, whats the distance from the door leaf to the slab?

Not sure. Not seen it in person yet myself. I would think 4-6 inches.

THE DON FANUCCI

brickee wrote: »

Hi SYDTHEBEAT

No BER assessment done just going on the type of houses that I built over the last 15 years and some friends that are still blocklaying. They are building still pretty much standard 100mm cavity some with 65mm kingspan some have the cavity filled. I did have a conversation with a BER assessor on what type of house he would build he recommended 150mm cavity, and dryline the outside walls have

I think with good standard of window fitted and sealed tight with tape plastered into reveal I have returned the blocks at window reveal so going to make sure it is as air tight as possible.

is airtightness tape/membrane a thing one can install themselves? and what does return blocks at window reveal mean?

sydthebeat

893bet wrote: »

Not sure. Not seen it in person yet myself. I would think 4-6 inches.

id be worried about the thermal bridge here

sounds like bad detailing

893bet

sydthebeat wrote: »

id be worried about the thermal bridge here

sounds like bad detailing

You are right. It's these details that are overlooked often during 1) self build and 2) where there is no construction drawings/architect over seeing.

I closed this up yesterday myself and did use 70mm PIR strip to minimise cold bridge.

893bet

Tiling started!

selfbuildpaddy

Hi all. I have a question regarding my oil heating/ stove set up and was wondering if anyone else encountered the same issue.

I have a 4 zone system link with (1. Hot water 2. Downstairs rads 3. Upstairs rads 4. Attic rads). When running on the oil boiler all zones heat perfectly through the system link. My stove is located on the ground floor of my house. Once this begins to heat up it heats a buffer cylinder which is located in my attic via gravity loop. Once the stove setpoint is reached on my stove stat located beside my stove, the stove pump which is located beside my system link, also in the attic starts. This will then turn off my oil boiler and start four output pumps of my system link.

The issue I am having is the hot water from the stove is just circulating around my stove, buffer and system link but will not divert out to the 4 zones. There is a non return valve on my oil boiler circuit which means that it is not circulating from the stove through the oil boiler circuit.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.

BryanF

selfbuildpaddy wrote: »

Hi all. I have a question regarding my oil heating/ stove set up and was wondering if anyone else encountered the same issue.

I have a 4 zone system link with (1. Hot water 2. Downstairs rads 3. Upstairs rads 4. Attic rads). When running on the oil boiler all zones heat perfectly through the system link. My stove is located on the ground floor of my house. Once this begins to heat up it heats a buffer cylinder which is located in my attic via gravity loop. Once the stove setpoint is reached on my stove stat located beside my stove, the stove pump which is located beside my system link, also in the attic starts. This will then turn off my oil boiler and start four output pumps of my system link.

The issue I am having is the hot water from the stove is just circulating around my stove, buffer and system link but will not divert out to the 4 zones. There is a non return valve on my oil boiler circuit which means that it is not circulating from the stove through the oil boiler circuit.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.

Mod Note - This thread is for discussing the various aspects of building as they arise. Do not use this thread for "pre-building" queries. Such queries should be posted in their own threads.
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Catxscotch

So i'm currently at the roofing stage, the block-layer was supposed to come back to build up the gables, and now he has gone on to another job, telling me he won't be available to finish-even though there is only ~2 days left

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Catxscotch wrote: »

So i'm currently at the roofing stage, the block-layer was supposed to come back to build up the gables, and now he has gone on to another job, telling me he won't be available to finish-even though there is only ~2 days left

Hopefully you haven't paid him, let him know he wont be getting paid either.....

893bet

Tiling almost complete! Just a bit of grouting left!

stickybookmark

893bet wrote: »

Tiling almost complete! Just a bit of grouting left!

Nice.
Do tiles Always go on before toilet & sink so? (and shower etc) I need to take that into account in my budget planning then

893bet

stickybookmark wrote: »

Nice.
Do tiles Always go on before toilet & sink so? (and shower etc) I need to take that into account in my budget planning then

I think so but perhaps depends on other factors. The sinks units I went with rather than pedestal or vanity are just made from 4x2, clad in jackoboard and then tilled completely. There is one tile left out so the plumber and do his second fix and connect up the basin. Tiler will then seal off the unit entirely.

Happyman42

893bet wrote: »

I think so but perhaps depends on other factors. The sinks units I went with rather than pedestal or vanity are just made from 4x2, clad in jackoboard and then tilled completely. There is one tile left out so the plumber and do his second fix and connect up the basin. Tiler will then seal off the unit entirely.

Does that mean having to take tiles off if anything goes wrong?

893bet

Happyman42 wrote: »

Does that mean having to take tiles off if anything goes wrong?

Yes. There is one tile which will be screwed on the unit and then grouted. To remove it I can cut the grout out and unscrew the till should any issue occur. Can always break a tile and replace as required either way.

THE DON FANUCCI

what system are you using to heat your rads? them white glossy tiles look classy job.

893bet

THE DON FANUCCI wrote: »

what system are you using to heat your rads? them white glossy tiles look classy job.

Oil fired rads.

Them tiles are from pj Mathews, balador rimini or something like that they are called. They are cream rather than white.

THE DON FANUCCI

893bet wrote: »

THE DON FANUCCI wrote: »

what system are you using to heat your rads? them white glossy tiles look classy job.

Oil fired rads.

Them tiles are from pj Mathews, balador rimini or something like that they are called. They are cream rather than white.

What made ur mind up regarding the thermodynamic panel and oil fired rads? As opposed to going with the other options. It's more cost effective anyway I'd imagine. Do you have a back Boiler in your stove also?

893bet

THE DON FANUCCI wrote: »

What made ur mind up regarding the thermodynamic panel and oil fired rads? As opposed to going with the other options. It's more cost effective anyway I'd imagine. Do you have a back Boiler in your stove also?

I wouldn't say it's more cost effective. Radiators/oil burner are far from a cheap option. Solar is large and was ££. We are putting in 2 stoves at a cost of 3k+ each. Far from a cheap option. No back boiler. Don't like them really as they make the stove far to fuel hungry.

The only way you know what your options are is to get your provisional BER done and that will show if your proposed spec is adequate.

893bet

This thread may as well be locked as there is no one posting pics!

Shed put up today. Sadly I was at work so didn't get to see it but it only took 90 mins. 4m x 5m for 3k.

You wouldn't roof a garage for it!