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Wooden floors

  • 11-01-2007 12:41pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 456 ✭✭


    Just wondering - want to put wooden floors in a number of rooms in my house (in middle of building one). All of the floors are concrete and I also have underfloor.

    I have been told that I cant use solid wooden floors but semi solid or engineered floors will be fine.

    How do I actually put these down on concrete? Glue?? Do I need some sort of underlay or anything or will this just inhibit the underfloor heating?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    James


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 664 ✭✭✭barry75


    Hi James
    we are also putting ufh in the house with concrete floors, was told that engineered wood floor was the way to go,there is also a underlay especially for ufh.I also heard that you need to increase the heat gradually when the boards are down.Sorry dont know whats the best way to put them down,still a bit away from that stage.By the way what size screed did you put down over the ufh?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 456 ✭✭twenty8


    Hi Barry,

    Thanks for your reply. I think that it was 65mm. Not sure if that is correct - but I will check.

    J


  • Registered Users Posts: 247 ✭✭Wobs


    Hi,

    You can put solid floors over ufh, once its done right you should have no problem. You need to make sure the floor and house have dried out well. Most manufacture's and any shop that knows what they are talking about will be able to tell you what the moisture content should be. The moisture content of the wood is also important, and then you need to properly acclimatise the flooring in the packaging for the reccommended time. You also have to do this with engineered boards.

    The best way to lay wood floors on ufh is to glue. this way you get no air gaps which would reduce the efficency, as you would with floating it.

    The best thing you can do is go to a shop where they know what the are on about. Unfortunately alot of them don't!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,273 ✭✭✭racso1975


    . Just thought that having done it i would give some feed back for people who are planning to glue down floors in the future:

    1)The glue advices you to spread no more then you can use in 20 mins i would suggest 10 mins.

    2)use a u notched trowel

    3)use spacers every 5th board i used 5c coins and for the love of god do not kneel on them like i did!!!!!

    4)Every so often tap the boards with a wooden handle to ensure that the boards have stuck properly. if not place a very heavy object on the board to ensure that the pressure applied will create contact with the glue

    5) it is a messy job so ensure you have plenty of rags handy

    6) If taking a break even a short one remove any visible glue as it is twice as hard to do this upon your return and you will need to as it will have begun to set due to air exposure.

    7) I found this site to be great http://www.doityourself.com/info/stripflooradhesive

    If i can answer any questions please do not hesitate to ask and thanks again to all for the advice given prior to this project


  • Registered Users Posts: 147 ✭✭tmccar


    Hi
    I want to put down a semi-solid wooden floor but on the concrete are a lot of patches of old black glue from a previous covering of wooden tiles. would this need to be removed completely? Any easy way of removing it?

    Regards - Tom


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,273 ✭✭✭racso1975


    It would be best if your did remove the old glue as you may not know what type of reaction the old glue could have with the new one. To be honest i am not sure what would be your best option for removing the old glue but i would suspect that there would be an industrial project ideally suited to this


  • Registered Users Posts: 44 KILRB


    3)use spacers every 5th board i used 5c coins and for the love of god do not kneel on them like i did!!!!!

    How exactly do you use the spacers? As I understand the boards are tounge and groove and therefore will fit snugl in together - do you put in the spacer to stop the toung going completely into the groove?
    Do you use a spacer along the length of the board and on the end?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,809 ✭✭✭edanto


    I appreciate this is an old thread from 5 years ago, but I'd be really interested to know, rasco/twenty8, how the wooden floors over ufh worked out for you over the long term?

    Did you both use solid wood, or engineered?

    thx


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 439 ✭✭North West


    Hi Twenty8
    You can install solid wood on UFH. Google Elastilon all the info is there. Have successfully used this product on 125mm Classic oak flooring. No problems. Expensive but will work 100%. Follow manufacturers instructions and you will have no problem.
    NW


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