Running out of elevation clicks

ballistic

I recently bought a schmidt and bender precision hunter. It has a bullet drop compensator. it is an excellent scope it is mounted it on a picatinny (steyr pro varmint) rail using (low) warne mounts. the bullet drop compensator allows me to take 30 clicks for longer range stuff the problem is that i run out of elevation clicks on about the 28th click. is there any such thing as mounts that are elevation adjustable? would higher mounts solve the problem? any ideas??

Quillo

The Sportsmatch AOP55 is a one piece adjustable scope mount.

http://www.sportsmatch-uk.com/products.html

Rovi

You could try swapping the rings front -> rear and see if that makes any difference, or a piece of photographic film or similar under the scope at the rear ring will also give you back a few minutes of elevation.

Burris Signature rings will accept their Pos-Align® Offset Inserts, which allow the scope be fitted with a few different amounts of built in elevation.

Then there are one piece long range bases (like this) which have 10/15/20 MOA built into them, as used by the ultra-long range crowd (1,000 yards -> 1 mile and beyond).

bullets

Dunno if this bit of info is of any use to you but....

on Page 45 of Vol 10. No5. Feb 2007 edition of the Irish Shooters Digest
there is a mention of a B-Square device from Millards?? Some adapter/riser
for Elevation

www.b-square.com


~B

Umiq88

Rovi swapping the rings shouldnt help here as he's running out of elevation thats a windage problem.

There are lots of rails out there with 20moa elevation adjustment that you can get thats about all i know though. Do google search.

Vinniew

Saw the same happening to a mates anschutz, he ended up shimming up the rear mount. Like somone said use bits of photographic film of alternatively get some brass shim from an engineering supplier.


Vinnie

Rovi

psittacosis wrote:

Rovi swapping the rings shouldnt help here as he's running out of elevation thats a windage problem.

I suggested he swap the rings front -> rear, which most certainly will make a difference to elevation if there's any sort of difference in ring height.
It may also make a difference to windage, but that's not the effect we're looking for here.
If we were looking to effect windage, I'd have suggested he rotate the rings on the mounts.

Umiq88

Fair enough rovi i just dont think its that common but worth a try i guess wont cost you anything anyway. Think the adjutable base is the way to go i thought all 1000yards shooters would be using them

Tea drinker

Hi, you might be able to cut up a feeler gauge, get a wide pice of that in there. Available from a motor factors. The thinner stuff will probably cut with a scissors. And as a bonus the metal should be more durable and thermally stable than film. (but the other posts were very good too!):D

Sandy22

This is a good-quality scope and a good-quality rifle with, I take it, a factory rail. You shouldn't expect to have this problem nor to have to resort to cutting up coke cans to fix it.

That leaves the rings, or the way the whole thing is assembled as the most likely culprit. Do as Rovi suggests, or try a different set of rings. Make absolutely sure the rings are properly seated on the rail. You say the rings are low; is there any chance the objective bell on the scope is touching the rail, receiver or barrel?

The most popular elevation solution the 1000yd shooters use is a rail with, typically, about 20min inbuilt slope. Check if yours is like this, especially if it's non-factory and if so that it's on the right way round. (It should slope down to the front).

Sandy.

ballistic

Sandy22 wrote:

This is a good-quality scope and a good-quality rifle with, I take it, a factory rail. You shouldn't expect to have this problem nor to have to resort to cutting up coke cans to fix it.

That leaves the rings, or the way the whole thing is assembled as the most likely culprit. Do as Rovi suggests, or try a different set of rings. Make absolutely sure the rings are properly seated on the rail. You say the rings are low; is there any chance the objective bell on the scope is touching the rail, receiver or barrel?

The most popular elevation solution the 1000yd shooters use is a rail with, typically, about 20min inbuilt slope. Check if yours is like this, especially if it's non-factory and if so that it's on the right way round. (It should slope down to the front).

Sandy.

Thank you all for your help. The rail is a picatinny rail and came attached to the rifle. The mounts seem to be seated perfectly on the rail, the rail is also flat ie uniform throughout. The objective is well clear of the rail. The mounts are warne one piece rings. I have great faith in their ability to hold a zero as I have used them on other rifles (these perticular ones are new). I chose the low ones as the rail already has enough height. I am not really a long range shooter rabbits on a summers evening at 500 yds would be my goal. The scope is zeroed an inch and a half high at 100yds only for that I would not run out of clicks. I appreciate that my max adjustment range woul be the same, I like not having to worry about elevation on a fox under the lamp which for me is usually around two hundred yards. Can anyone tell me if the burris signature zee rings with the inserts are a good job. My only concern is that they wont hold the zero as well. If they are good can someone tell me where to get them in ireland.

seamusgi4szw

Check and then recheck the mounts (rings) aren,t back to front, I ran out of clicks at 500yds with a Leupold and sako dismountable mounts, traded the mounts and bought a Nightforce, same thing, ooops, ran out of clicks at 400yds.
DERRR!!
The bloody mounts were on back to front all the time, didn't matter at 100/200/300 yds. They were dealer fitted in the first place so I presumed they were on correctly.???
Ah well, always wanted a nightforce anyway.

ballistic

I just swapped the mounts around today and I now have more than enough elevation. Wierd!!

thanks to everyone