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Drylining - how to attach plasterboard

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  • 09-03-2007 3:09pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭


    I am thinking of putting plasterboard on the inside of an external wall - its an external wall in a small bedroom with a window in the centre of the wall, wall area roughly 30 sq. feet.

    The paint flakes from this wall in small patches and I am thinking of using moisture resistant plasterboard. I don't want to use battens to attach the plasterbooard as I want to keep the existing window surround and skirting board.

    Two questions:

    - if I am not using battens, how do I fix the plasterboard. Is there a special adhesive I can use ?
    - assuming the plasterboard is up, do I need to skim it or would taping and painting be alright ?

    any comment appreciated, thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 27,178 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    What is on the wall currenlty, just bare brick or something else?
    If its nothing then you should probably be thinking of insulation and so will need to create a space for this insulation by using battens.

    You will have to replace or at least refit the skiting as otherwise it will look crap with plasterboard sitting above it.
    You could try not using plasterboard on the window reveal, but you will still have issues depending on the depth of your window board.


  • Registered Users Posts: 759 ✭✭✭Corkey123


    Henryd65

    You can use Dry Wall adhesive (sold in Chadwick, Heiton, Brook, etc.. This is used to blob plasterboard onto a wall. Yes you will have to tape and at least skim the gaps if not all the wall, however I would agree with GreeBo the solution you are suggestion will look poor if the skirting is not removed and re-attached. Suggest you re-think


  • Registered Users Posts: 27,178 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    I was going to suggest the dabbing technique, but wont that still end up increasing the depth of the wall as much as battons would?


  • Registered Users Posts: 759 ✭✭✭Corkey123


    Yep To GreeBo maybe a little less than a batten


  • Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭henryd65


    Thanks for the replies.

    The main reason I am reluctant to use battens is because there is a radiator attached to the wall - I would not be confident enough to remove the radiator and I would be able to fit the board behind the radiator, but not if I use battens.

    Also, the skirting board and window surround are quite thick - c.20 mm, so the board will not overhang the skirting if you know what I mean

    Do these factors make a difference ?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 759 ✭✭✭Corkey123


    Considering your initial description of the wall and the flaking paint. It is likely that the wall is damp and only being kept dry by the rad. For this reason it is uneconomical to allow the heat of the rad to be drawn to the wall and ultimately escape the room. I'd suggest you batten the wall and using either 1 inch polystyren with 1 inch battens or plasterboard backed with insulation.

    Disconnect the rad while doing this and reconnect when finished. You can disconnect the rad by closing each valve and allow the water in the rad to drip into a container. Reconnection the rad after the job is done and open the values including the bleeding nut. This will re-fill the rad

    Really its a case of doing the job properly. A job such as blobbing or dadding is difficult to get exactly right and is best done by a professional.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,146 ✭✭✭aaronm13


    I would have to agree with Martin above about the obvious signs of dampness.I would advise against using battens because of this.Dot and dab or mushroom fix your boards onto the wall,either a normal slab or a slab with polyurethane on the back for insulation.This will build your wall out by 1"-1 1/2".Do take off your skirting as it will look crap and very make shift looking.The rad might be your only problem as with building the wall out you mightn't have that much movement on the pipes so a bit of pipe adjustment could be needed.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 98 ✭✭fatchance


    removing the rad is not that difficult. turn it off at both ends by turning both stop valves. then get someone to give a hand as you will need it. open rad at one end and water will come out but only a little, then place your thumb over the hole and get whoever is helping to do the same the other end. lift rad outside and let it drain. then you can fix you plasterboard (i'd recommend the boards with insulation attached and mushroom fix then to wall by drilling through plasterboard into wall and hammering fixer beyond flush, nothing will buge it then, batons are slow and if dampness is there forget it) to the wall.


  • Registered Users Posts: 27,178 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    When refitting the rad, only open one of the valves and then open the bleed valve.
    This will help prevent air from getting into the system.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,174 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Would good guidance be to treat the damp first before applying battens?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5 teddymaguire


    hello everyone< does anybody know much about a skirting board radiator system called thermaskirt??had a few phone calls about it and an inquiry made for me but need more infor,I heard the company was based in naas,co.kildare??


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