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Fittings through Kingspan insulated panels

  • 10-07-2007 10:14am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭


    I'm fitting Kingspan insulated panels (52mm - tw52) to my existing concrete block walls. Does anyone know how I can then secure things to the wall through the insulation?
    I know i'll need aroiund a 4" screw, but I just can't figure how to get a plug into the concrete wall through the insulation


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 828 ✭✭✭SoBe


    you can get special plastic fixings for them,ask in your local hardware store for them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,776 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    ....known as 'mushrooms'..........

    btw, a lot of dryliners use bonding to attach them to the walls, rather than mechanical fixing - allows lining them up easier, if the walls behind aren't great......

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭Reyman


    Thanks lads I presume these mushrooms are a failry long wide plastic plug that will take say a size 10 screw?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 828 ✭✭✭SoBe


    no m8 they dont take a screw.you drill through the slab through to the wall and knock them in with a hammer.there like a big headded plastic nail.

    and as galwaytt suggested some bonding dabbed on the back of the slab will help a lot,both with lining them up and securing them to the blocks


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭Reyman


    Hey hold it lads! I don't want to secure the board to the wall.
    I want to secure wooden supports to the wall on top of the drylining with screws.
    Is a mushroom any good for this ?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 828 ✭✭✭SoBe


    aha thats different,my bad apologies i misunderstood.so you would be looking for something like frame fixers instead


  • Registered Users Posts: 925 ✭✭✭whosedaddy?


    I'd be interested too...

    Done same and now i'm not sure how to re-attach the rads...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 828 ✭✭✭SoBe


    personaly if it was me i would batton the walls with 2x2 using express nails and insulate between the 2x2 battons then slab over them.

    on the rad front should have put timber in for them before you slabed it tbh but im sure some of the new type plasterboard fixings will suffice to hold it


  • Registered Users Posts: 419 ✭✭eoghan.geraghty


    Reyman, if you hammer in an 8mm express nail flush with the plasterboard, carefully, you can use this to hold a brown rawl plug and voila.
    As for plasterboard fixings, the best I've found are the rayfix ones, most builders suppliers have them on the counter these days in bags of 50. A plumbers suppliers told me they were good for holding rads according to his customers.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭Reyman


    Reyman, if you hammer in an 8mm express nail flush with the plasterboard, carefully, you can use this to hold a brown rawl plug and voila.
    As for plasterboard fixings, the best I've found are the rayfix ones, most builders suppliers have them on the counter these days in bags of 50. A plumbers suppliers told me they were good for holding rads according to his customers.

    I'm sure this is a stupid question but what is an 'express' nail? I don't have a very good record hammering things into concrete blocks - I find masonry nails and the like usually bend or break or something - they rarely give a good secure fixing


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭Reyman


    I've found these plastic insert things for inserting into plasterboard. They're spiral shaped and come with a screw.

    Anyone try these things any good ? Can they take any weight?


  • Registered Users Posts: 419 ✭✭eoghan.geraghty


    They're not good enough for anything heavy, but for pictures they'll do.
    Go into your local builders suppliers for a look at express nails, rayfix fixings etc.
    Best of luck with it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 98 ✭✭fatchance


    To fix something heavy to insulated plasterboards like tw52 (which I have in my house), your local hardware should stock boxes (you can buy seperately too) of heavy duty screws with their own plastic plugs/sleves. Hammer in plug with screw in it and tighten up. You'd hang anything outta it, like kitchen units...mirrors etc.

    For smaller items like picture frames, you can get little expanding metal push in plugs. side on they look like the letter T, and when inserted into the wall all you see is a metal circle the size of a 5 cent coin with a hole in it. You screw into this hole and the metal inside the plasterboard expands. You can but varying weight bearing types, all excellent up to 15kgs.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭Reyman


    Thanks lads for all your help - much appreciated!

    FC: Those plugs with the screw in them. Do the just go the two inches into the TW52 or do you have to drill through to the masonry behind to put them in?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    plasterboard worms.

    They are like a mini cork screw that screw into the plaster board,and then you simply screw the screw into the worm.

    They will hold up a TV bracket and tv with no problems at all.

    Or else 8mm anchor bolts.

    Metal rawl plug tupe that you drill into the actual brick with.then insert the meatl casing and use a screwdriver and hammer to pop the end of it into the wall so that it grips.then you screw your bolt into it and thats it,job done.

    SIMPLES.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,179 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Go with FatChance idea, thats what I use for rads etc through 70mm kingspan.
    "HammerIn" or "frame Fixing" is what they are usually called.

    You dont need/want anchor bolts in your walls for hanging toilet rolls , mirrors etc.

    Anyway the bolts are usually too big to fit through most fixtures.


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