Pump cutting out

antoinolachtnai

A fused spur isn't going to make much difference to whether you have surges or not.

If it still isn't running, it's likely the capacitor. Have a look at the big white thing and see if it is irregular/swollen in shape. If it is, it probably needs to be replaced.

Sir Arsalot

antoinolachtnai wrote: »

A fused spur isn't going to make much difference to whether you have surges or not.

If it still isn't running, it's likely the capacitor. Have a look at the big white thing and see if it is irregular/swollen in shape. If it is, it probably needs to be replaced.

The flow cap LOOKS to be fine - it's not burnt or expanded-looking.
We've temporarily got a hose hooked up from the cold tap on the bath to the toilet cistern to fill it after each flush ( all mod cons here )
I read elsewhere that leaving the pump off and running the cold tap can cause it to jam ?

antoinolachtnai

Surely the pump drives the cold water to the bath as well, no? It is weird if the bath runs but the toilet does not. But that's separate from the pump.

I would ask Stuart Turner and/or Modern Plant for their view on how to go forward. I would have my doubts as to whether the pump would jam that easy. At heart, these are pretty decent pumps.

It would be worth replacing the cap just in case, I think, before starting to pull the pump to bits.

aregan

Hi,
I've got a similar problem. We've got a Stuart Turner M330N with dry run protection. A year or two ago it completely stopped working, so I popped down to moden plant and got a replacement circuit board - that fixed that problem.

About three months ago it started given problems where it would not run some times. We'd turn on the tap, here a quiet click and then nothing.
Reseting the power a few times usually cleared the problem. We called a plumber, he took it appart - put it back together and it worked again for a month or so. He said it was dirt.

Now its becomming very unreliable. Most mornings it doesn't work without a few resets and a prayer.

I've read some people suggesting it could be the capacitor. I've just removed the cover and took a quick look. I can see the big white capiciator and at a glance it doesn't look like its any visible defects - but I aint know capicator expert. Not sure either how long those bad boys hold their charge after powering off.

Does this problem sound familiar to anyone?

Alan

Sir Arsalot

aregan wrote: »

Hi,
I've got a similar problem. We've got a Stuart Turner M330N with dry run protection. A year or two ago it completely stopped working, so I popped down to moden plant and got a replacement circuit board - that fixed that problem.

About three months ago it started given problems where it would not run some times. We'd turn on the tap, here a quiet click and then nothing.
Reseting the power a few times usually cleared the problem. We called a plumber, he took it appart - put it back together and it worked again for a month or so. He said it was dirt.

Now its becomming very unreliable. Most mornings it doesn't work without a few resets and a prayer.

I've read some people suggesting it could be the capacitor. I've just removed the cover and took a quick look. I can see the big white capiciator and at a glance it doesn't look like its any visible defects - but I aint know capicator expert. Not sure either how long those bad boys hold their charge after powering off.

Does this problem sound familiar to anyone?

Alan

If there was a power surge in your area 3 months ago I'd say it's likely to be a new pcb again you need.
I replaced my pcb a few years ago too but I still had to get another one a few months ago after a surge.
According to Antoin the new ones have better surge protection so that's good news.
I'd just like to share how I fixed mine - it WAS the pcb, but because we left it off a while, the pump had seized, and with the new pcb fitted it just hummed when the power was switched on. ( I figured it wasn't the flow cap because that wasn't burnt or swollen ).
Tried to reach in with a screwdriver to move the impeller but couldn't even budge it.
Rang Modern Plant for some advice - they were very helpful - and then I tried a few things. Here's what got it working again.

You leave the water knobs open and loosen the 4 screws at both ends of the pump, but don't open them completely or obviously water will leak out.
Then you switch on the power to the pump , turn on a tap or the shower , and whack both ends lightly with a piece of timber. ( not metal as that might damage it ).
If it doesn't work the first time try it again.
When it starts up, you leave the tap or shower running a few minutes and tighten up the screws again.

Mine started up the second time I tried that, but if that doesn't work at all, you put the power back off, turn off all the water knobs as far as they will go, and then turn on a tap/shower to get some of the water out before opening - otherwise it will leak a couple of pints of water onto the floor of the hotpress.
Then you open the 4 screws at one or other end fully.
( Make sure the power is OFF - the impeller would take your fingers off when it starts up ).
Take the brass cap off and turn the impeller a few times to get it moving.
Then put the cap back on and screws back in securely, and turn the knobs back all the way. Have the tap/shower on again and THEN switch on the power to see if it now works.
You might have to whack it again with the piece of timber.

Hope that helps somebody who has a seizing pump - try that before calling the local service guy.

The Shower Doctors

This Could be a Pressure Switch problem.If the shower is operated with the handset still up high in the mounting bracket does the pump run?
If the answer is no, try running the bath.If the pump comes on when the bath is run it is operating on the reed switches and not the pressure switch as a negative head pump should.
I hope this helps.