BMW repair forum? Want to know how to change rear wheel bearings on a 316

ruprect

Are there any good forums that would tell how to change the rear wheel bearings on a 1993 BMW 316 with drum brake system?

Cheers.

Lex Luthor

http://www.bavarian-board.co.uk/forum_topics.asp?FID=47
or
http://www.bavarian-board.co.uk/forum_topics.asp?FID=5

DaveD

Heres a how-to but has no pics - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98164 or you can search http://www.bimmerdiy.com/e36

Forums, try:

www.bmw-driver.net/forum
www.e36coupe.com/forum

DublinDilbert

Hi,

I replaced 4 of these on my E36 316i, it should of just been 2 changed, but the first 2 bearings i got from GSF only lasted 9 months :mad:

You'd want to be fairly handy, but it can be done by a DIYer... its not the easiest of jobs, and will involve a fair bit of cursing... It's very hard to describe the setup, but when you'll see it you'll understand...



1. Remove the locking nut from the end of the half shaft. You may need to take off the drum and remove the dust cover. If the nut won't come off cut it with a dremmil, it's only made from aluminum... You'll also need the wheel fitted and on the ground when you are trying to the the first turn on the nut. DO not take the nut off when the car's weight is on the wheel, as this nut keeps the bearing together.

2. Undo the torques bolts which attach the 1/2 shaft to the diff.. these will have to be done one at a time, then rotate the 1/2 shaft as space is limited... you can now drop down the 1/2 shaft, supporting it with some rope..

3. Now you can push the 1/2 shaft out of the wheel hub and under the car... sometimes they will push out with the tap of a hammer.. other times you'll need to fit a bearing puller onto the hub, and the center screw of the puller onto the drive shaft..

4. you now need to get the hub out of the bearing inner race. the experts say use a slide hammer... I always put a long bolt through the hub, and bolt some box section on to the back of the hub. I then hit the box section with the big hammer, this will push the hub out, it usually takes 1/2 of the inner race with it... you'll need to cut the inner race off the hub with an angle grinder...

now for the difficult bit...

5. you'll now need to remove the outer race of the bearing from the trailing arm. Remove the circlip, which holds it in place. remember the back 1/2 of the inner race should still be in place, i use this to pull the outer race from the trailing arm. I fit some threaded bar through the bearing, pulling on the inner race, and fit a piece of box section pushing on the trailing arm, when you tighten the bolt it should pull the bearing out!

I've heard of some people using a dremel to cut the outer race out....


6. Be very carefull with the new bearing, its very week until its in place with the drive shaft running through it.... first push the outer race into the trailing arm using the threaded bar method + box section. Fit the circlip into the trailing arm, to keep it in place.

7. Now pull the hub into the inner race, again using threaded bar, with one piece of box section resting on the hub, and the other resting on the inner race. Do not try tap the hub in with a hammer, the inner race of the bearing will split in 2!

8. re-fit 1/2 shaft... you'll only be able to tighten down the main 32 nut so much with the wheel in the air, but it should be enough to let you put the car on the ground and finish the tightening...




Parts you'll need:-
You'll need the bearing kit, which should come with a new Circlip to hold the bearing into the trailing arm. Also get new drive shaft locking nut and some spare half shaft hex bolts...


Tools you'll need:-
Axle stands to hold the car up, you'll be hitting it quite hard with a big
Chocks as you'll have to work with the hand brake off
Angle grinder
big hammer!
32mm socket with 1/2 drive or 3/4 drive + breaker bar
A set of inverted Torques head sockets ( to undo the 1/2 shaft at the diff)
Lots of M12 or M10 threaded bar + nuts
Lots of spacers / washers / old bearing housings
lengths of box section with holes drilled for the M12 bar!