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Chimney Flue

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  • 25-09-2007 7:35pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 612 ✭✭✭


    I am thinking of opening up a chimney that was closed up by the last owner of my house. I will need to line the chimney as I can see at least one hole in it. I have been in touch with a couple of compaines about having it done and I was wondering if anybody has any experience of a crowd called Multiflue.

    Has any body added a soot box to an existing chimney-how did it look.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 459 ✭✭northdublin


    recently reopened and widened a fireplace to accomadate a wood stove, i lined my chimney with a double skinned liner. i couldnt see and cracks or defects in the clay flue but better to be safe than sorry. i got a flexable liner as there is a bend in my flue. i dealt mainly with bohills in termonfecken. the liner is about 44 euro a meter but it depends on what type of fire you will be using,ie a stove or open fire. the flexi liner connects onto the flue of the stove but im thinkin if its an open fire you would have to terminate the liner in some sort of register plate and fill around the liner with insulation.


  • Registered Users Posts: 612 ✭✭✭okmqaz42


    Hi northdublin.
    My plan is to put in a stove, i have one in my sitting room already and it gets lit nearly every night.
    How difficult was it to put the lineing in, and did you add a soot box.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 459 ✭✭northdublin


    the liner was not that difficult to install. i cut the top of it into a cone shape and tied a rope to it that i had lowered down from the roof. then it was a matter of me pulling the rope while the person at the bottom shoved.
    i dont have a soot box cause my flue from the stove will be directly connected to the liner. a soot box is needed when the flue from the stove is just positioned up the chimney. to stop the soot falling down in this case a regester plate is needed which seals off the gape of the flue over the stove and stops the soot falling back down onto the top of the stove.in this case you need a soot door to access the flue to remove anything that did not make its way up the chimney. in my case the soot cant go anywhere other than up the flue or back into the stove. so i dont need one.


  • Registered Users Posts: 612 ✭✭✭okmqaz42


    Thanks for the picture it clears up alot.This is exactly what I wanted to do but it was sugested to me that i could not do this as the gases/smoke from the fire may not be hot enough when the fire is first lit and will cause tar to build in the liner and will eventually make its way into the stove and destroy it.
    I have been told that the flue needs to come out the back of the stove so there is an angle on it, hence the soot box. From my point of view this is more work/cost than is needed as this is a second fire more for ambience in my dining room.
    I would hate to think that somebody if trying to take me for an idiot!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 459 ✭✭northdublin


    my understanding is that tar is going to build up anyway. the opening you refere to is an access plate in the flue to allow you to rod the flue to clean it. to reduce tar deposits you have to burn only dty fuels. damp logs and other non dried fuels will cause excessive taring. some stoves you can rod them from inside the stove and oters you either have an access plate or rod them from the top. ive seen tee pieces at the back of stoves with a removable blank plate to allow soot to fall out but this seems too messy.
    here are a few sites that might help
    <snip>


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