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Painting a new build

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  • 27-09-2007 9:31am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 57 ✭✭


    Hi All
    We have had our new build walls plastered in the last 6 weeks. Now most of the walls were plasterboard so they were just skimmed. We left the windows open and the walls have dried out very quickly so we decided we might start a bit of painting.
    We got some undercoat paint and started painting the walls using a roller, however there are parts of the paint peeling off when we are rolling it and i dont know why this is happening.
    Would it be because we haven t waited long enough for the skim coat to dry even though everyone who has been to the house has said they are dried out??
    Could it be the wrong roller we are using, what type should we use?? we went with the recommendation of the sales advisor in the shop
    Or even the wrong paint we are using crown
    A little bit of advice on this would be greatly appreciated

    thanks in advance


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    6 weeks won't be long enough to dry skim, they will only have dried to the ambient humidity, you really need to put heat or a Dehumidifier in the house to properly dry the walls.
    I bet if you got a commercial Dehumidifier and stuck it on you will see a lot of water in the tank after a nights running.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,556 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    The reason they are peeling of is because of an alkali reaction with the plaster and the skim, this normally happens only on the interior of the external walls.. ie the walls with the windows. You need to coat these areas, not the entire wall, just the effected area with an alkali resisting primer. Dulux Sealapore, and repaint over.

    Another mistake commonly made is that ppl do not thin out the first coat enough when painting skim for the first time. Its very improtant that you mic the first coat withat least 30% water.. The reason for this is that the walls will be dry and that this soaks into the wall creating a seal. If you put the pain on too thick it wont soak in and therefore wont bond to the wall properly.

    :) 10 years in a hardware store. I know stuff ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 57 ✭✭newbuild06


    thanks lads for the quick replies

    cj would any hire shop have a Dehumidifier??

    thanks snyper for the advice i have sent a pm to you with a few questions


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 10,661 ✭✭✭✭John Mason


    Left my walls 2 months before i painted them, with the heating on.

    as was said above, you need to prime them first. buy some cheap white paint water it down and slap it on the walls before you paint.


    good luck:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,921 ✭✭✭2 stroke


    Dont buy cheap paint for the first coat. This coat of paint has to hold up every coat of paint that you put on a house afterwards so dont be tempted to save money here. I also dont approve of the use of dehumidifiers by amatures. I've seen a lot of cracks caused by too rapid drying. Visit a paint shop for advice rather than a hardware store.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 11,909 ✭✭✭✭Wertz


    Wait wait wait....undercoat? Not as in oil based undercoat I hope...
    That would be a complete disaster and I hope that's not what's happened here.
    Is the "undercoat" white vinyl matt? If not, it should be, and it should be thinned with 15-20% water and applied with a short nap roller and synthetic brush.

    With plaster, if it looks dry, feels dry and there's no obvious condensation on the windows when they're all closed then the plaster should be fit to take emulsion, at least certainly on the interior/stud walls. Even at that you shouldn't be getting reactions of the type you describe unless the walls are "mapping" everywhere and you're attempting to cover the mapping by rolling back over it again; this pulls semi dry paint off the defective substrate, allows wet paint in behind the layer of already applied paint and leads to further blistering.
    If/when that happens, stop painting, you're only making it worse...get some sort of sealer like BIN or aqua lock or such, roll it onto the offending areas, allow to dry for a day and then carry on painting. The sealer will tend to flash through whilst coats of paint dry on top of it, but your coats of colour should hide it later on after it all dries out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 57 ✭✭newbuild06


    thanks for the replies and advice folks

    Since we have thinned out our paint using water we have no problems with the peepling so full steam ahead now, oh the joy of painting

    Wertz yes we are using white vinal matt as our undercoat


  • Registered Users Posts: 552 ✭✭✭De_man


    newbuild06 wrote:
    thanks for the replies and advice folks

    Since we have thinned out our paint using water we have no problems with the peepling so full steam ahead now, oh the joy of painting

    Wertz yes we are using white vinal matt as our undercoat


    anyone got an opinion on spray painting the first coat rather than using
    brushes and rollers?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 11,909 ✭✭✭✭Wertz


    Fine. Leaves a better and less textured surface than roller/brush. Just make sure the paint is properly thinnned, that the spray tip is the right size and that the spray is even and not overly heavy.

    [edit] Should add that the fresh plaster needs to be smooth and in good shape. A quick check for bits of grit or snots of plaster stuck to the wall will save damaging the sprayed coat later. Use some very light grade paper if need be...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2 tilidie


    Hi,

    has anyone ever had their house painted by the above company. They specialise in rubber based paint that is guaranteed for 15 years in any colour you choose. Our house is quoted at about 5,000e but I would love to hear from anyone who had this done and what they think. They seem reputable but you never know. Thanks for your input

    tilidie:eek:


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2 tilidie


    Hi,

    has anyone ever had their house painted by the above company. They specialise in rubber based paint that is guaranteed for 15 years in any colour you choose. Our house is quoted at about 5,000e but I would love to hear from anyone who had this done and what they think. They seem reputable but you never know. Thanks for your input

    tilidie:eek:


  • Registered Users Posts: 634 ✭✭✭subfreq


    Do people really leave their walls for 2 months before painting on them?!?

    I thought two weeks was about right as long as you don't see any condensation on the windows over night.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 11,909 ✭✭✭✭Wertz


    I've seen houses left for 3 and 4 months. Getting rid of all the moisture, including the residual stuff from wood and curing concrete/cement in the outer walls and floors is best practice before you do any painting, tiling or fine finish carpentery/floors.
    No condenstaion on the windows is a good rule of thumb but if the house was built in a wet period or used a lot of concrete in construction then there is possibly unseen moisture inside the insulation, it's best to have it gone before you start decorating surfaces; it only shrinks later leading to defects in paint, tiles coming loose, bowing floors, stuff like that.
    For a room, in an occupied house, with some skim work done on stud walls, you can paint it in about 3-4 days, maybe less.


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