UFH and timberflooring...float or glue?

fatchance

Hi all, seriously confused on this issue and need first hand experienced answers please cus I'm getting 14mm engineered semi solid flooring oak for 40msq living fitchen area.

I've been told that I shouldn't float this on that foam stuff because the heat from the ufh wouldn't get through properly, but would this really be the case?

The other way is to glue the flooring directly to the floor with flexable glue. This sounds very expensive comprising of bonding floor, using floor levelling compound to even out any low spots and then the glue, not to mention the labour cost which I was told would be twice the price of the fflooring itself.

What did you do in your home and which is best? Floating is much cheaper but is it a fools economy?

Any help would be much appreciated, thnks

yop

You can float and use a special porous underlay. 100 euro per roll. We have it and have no issues with the UFH.

paulb

Yeah - the underlay we used was recommended, it allows heat transference. It's like lightly plasticated(!) corrugated cardboard. No idea of cost I haggled it into the M Sq price for the semi-solid flooring.

CJhaughey

If the foam underlay was that efficient that it stops the heat coming up through the floor, would you not be better using it in sheets as roof insulation?
It is BS to suggest that foam underlay stops heat from coming through the floor, it is only 3-4mm thick polyethylene foam and while it may have a very small effect on heat transfer it will only delay the heat rather than stopping it.
I have solid 20mm wood floors floated on a layer of that PE foam and a sheet of polythene plastic to stop the water from the slab affecting the wood.
I also have UFH and it is no problem getting it to work.
test it out for yourself, get some of the foam and put it over a piece of concrete heated to whatever heat that you will be running on your UFH , you will feel the heat no problems.
Plastic sheet is important to prevent cupping of boards from moisture in concrete.
If ya can

qazxsw

What's the name of the perforated underlay folks and is it easy to get?

Have glued down floorboards in bedrooms downstairs -18mm semi solid oak - rock solid feeling when you walk on them is very nice.

Have UFH upstairs but have nothing done up there yet - concrete screed upstairs are a bit on the rough side - I'm thinking maybe the underlay might dor the trick.

I'm based in Tipp.

maniac101

We have a 15mm engineered birch floor, on top of a foam underlay (that includes the damp-proof membrane I think). This has been working perfectly with the UFH for the last few years. We were advised at the time not to use solid wood due to the fact that it would bend, and that gaps would open up between the boards over time. There are those who would challenge that advice though.

fatchance

thanks all for the replys, you have certainly eased my concerns. The thoughts of gluing the boards to the floor did'nt appeal to me, works out very expensive.

Do you find the floor feels as solid as if it were glued, whats the key to helping to get this sensation using foam? I presume any slight differences in floor levels (minor humps and hollows) are cancelled out by the foam and the sturdiness of the flooring? I'll be gluing all joints with pva glue which should help.

Love to hear your tips. thanks.